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Miss Chen
3 hours ago
Miss Chen
病害症状 主要为害叶片和花器的柱头及花丝。叶面病斑浅黄色至褐色,多角形,湿度大时,叶背霉丛厚密,呈淡蓝紫色。
病害病原 Peronospora menthae X.Y.Cheng et H.C.Bai称薄荷霜霉,属鞭毛菌亚门真菌。孢囊梗卵圆形,稍小,直立,散生或丛生,无色或微带灰白色,大小291—497×7—14(μm),呈锐角二叉式分枝6—8次,顶端不对称,顶枝尖略弯,大小10—18.5×1.9—2.5(μm);孢子囊卵圆形,淡紫褐色,大小21.5—45.5×20—44(μm),未见卵孢子。此外peronospora stigmaticola Raunk称柱头生霜霉,亦是该病病原。孢囊梗无色,长椭圆形,较大,从气孔伸出,单生或丛生,大小272.7—313.1×5.0—10.1(μm),基部不膨大,主轴长为全长l/2—2/3,上部具二叉状分枝3—5次,末枝呈弧状,端尖,长l0.5—12.0μm;孢子囊浅灰色,无乳突,大小20.7—46.3×10.5—14.7(μm);卵孢子黄红色,球状,大小30.3—40.4μm;藏卵器近球形,大小50.5—60.6μm。前者主要为害叶片,形成叶斑,后者为害花器,尤其是柱头和花丝,故称柱头生霜霉。 病害发生规律 病菌以带菌种子或卵孢子在染病的病残株上越冬,翌年栽植带病母根病菌随新叶生长侵染幼芽,成为该病初侵染源。湿度大时能产生游动孢子,借雨水或灌溉水传播蔓延,游动孢子在水滴中萌发,靠芽管从表皮直接侵入到叶片薄壁组织,产生菌丝体在细胞间扩展,同时产生线球状的吸器穿透寄主细胞壁,吸取养分和物质。气温16℃、相对湿度75%该病潜育期最短,利其产生大量孢子囊,使病害扩展。生产上施氮肥过多易发病。
病害防治方法 (1)加强检疫,防止该病扩大蔓延。 (2)发病初期注意拔除病株,集中深埋或烧毁。 (3栽植不宜过密,经常保持修剪以利通风透光,保持干燥。 防治药剂可选用50%氟吗啉.锰锌可湿粉(国光三治)400-600倍液、58%甲霜灵锰锌可湿粉剂(国光绿杀)400-600倍液、国光70%乙膦铝锰锌可湿粉剂800-1000倍液喷雾防治,连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
病害症状

主要为害叶片和花器的柱头及花丝。叶面病斑浅黄色至褐色,多角形,湿度大时,叶背霉丛厚密,呈淡蓝紫色。
  病害病原

Peronospora menthae X.Y.Cheng et H.C.Bai称薄荷霜霉,属鞭毛菌亚门真菌。孢囊梗卵圆形,稍小,直立,散生或丛生,无色或微带灰白色,大小291—497×7—14(μm),呈锐角二叉式分枝6—8次,顶端不对称,顶枝尖略弯,大小10—18.5×1.9—2.5(μm);孢子囊卵圆形,淡紫褐色,大小21.5—45.5×20—44(μm),未见卵孢子。此外peronospora stigmaticola Raunk称柱头生霜霉,亦是该病病原。孢囊梗无色,长椭圆形,较大,从气孔伸出,单生或丛生,大小272.7—313.1×5.0—10.1(μm),基部不膨大,主轴长为全长l/2—2/3,上部具二叉状分枝3—5次,末枝呈弧状,端尖,长l0.5—12.0μm;孢子囊浅灰色,无乳突,大小20.7—46.3×10.5—14.7(μm);卵孢子黄红色,球状,大小30.3—40.4μm;藏卵器近球形,大小50.5—60.6μm。前者主要为害叶片,形成叶斑,后者为害花器,尤其是柱头和花丝,故称柱头生霜霉。

病害发生规律

病菌以带菌种子或卵孢子在染病的病残株上越冬,翌年栽植带病母根病菌随新叶生长侵染幼芽,成为该病初侵染源。湿度大时能产生游动孢子,借雨水或灌溉水传播蔓延,游动孢子在水滴中萌发,靠芽管从表皮直接侵入到叶片薄壁组织,产生菌丝体在细胞间扩展,同时产生线球状的吸器穿透寄主细胞壁,吸取养分和物质。气温16℃、相对湿度75%该病潜育期最短,利其产生大量孢子囊,使病害扩展。生产上施氮肥过多易发病。
  病害防治方法

(1)加强检疫,防止该病扩大蔓延。 

(2)发病初期注意拔除病株,集中深埋或烧毁。 

(3栽植不宜过密,经常保持修剪以利通风透光,保持干燥。 
  防治药剂可选用50%氟吗啉.锰锌可湿粉(国光三治)400-600倍液、58%甲霜灵锰锌可湿粉剂(国光绿杀)400-600倍液、国光70%乙膦铝锰锌可湿粉剂800-1000倍液喷雾防治,连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
病害症状

主要为害叶片和花器的柱头及花丝。叶面病斑浅黄色至褐色,多角形,湿度大时,叶背霉丛厚密,呈淡蓝紫色。
  病害病原

Peronospora menthae X.Y.Cheng et H.C.Bai称薄荷霜霉,属鞭毛菌亚门真菌。孢囊梗卵圆形,稍小,直立,散生或丛生,无色或微带灰白色,大小291—497×7—14(μm),呈锐角二叉式分枝6—8次,顶端不对称,顶枝尖略弯,大小10—18.5×1.9—2.5(μm);孢子囊卵圆形,淡紫褐色,大小21.5—45.5×20—44(μm),未见卵孢子。此外peronospora stigmaticola Raunk称柱头生霜霉,亦是该病病原。孢囊梗无色,长椭圆形,较大,从气孔伸出,单生或丛生,大小272.7—313.1×5.0—10.1(μm),基部不膨大,主轴长为全长l/2—2/3,上部具二叉状分枝3—5次,末枝呈弧状,端尖,长l0.5—12.0μm;孢子囊浅灰色,无乳突,大小20.7—46.3×10.5—14.7(μm);卵孢子黄红色,球状,大小30.3—40.4μm;藏卵器近球形,大小50.5—60.6μm。前者主要为害叶片,形成叶斑,后者为害花器,尤其是柱头和花丝,故称柱头生霜霉。

病害发生规律

病菌以带菌种子或卵孢子在染病的病残株上越冬,翌年栽植带病母根病菌随新叶生长侵染幼芽,成为该病初侵染源。湿度大时能产生游动孢子,借雨水或灌溉水传播蔓延,游动孢子在水滴中萌发,靠芽管从表皮直接侵入到叶片薄壁组织,产生菌丝体在细胞间扩展,同时产生线球状的吸器穿透寄主细胞壁,吸取养分和物质。气温16℃、相对湿度75%该病潜育期最短,利其产生大量孢子囊,使病害扩展。生产上施氮肥过多易发病。
  病害防治方法

(1)加强检疫,防止该病扩大蔓延。 

(2)发病初期注意拔除病株,集中深埋或烧毁。 

(3栽植不宜过密,经常保持修剪以利通风透光,保持干燥。 
  防治药剂可选用50%氟吗啉.锰锌可湿粉(国光三治)400-600倍液、58%甲霜灵锰锌可湿粉剂(国光绿杀)400-600倍液、国光70%乙膦铝锰锌可湿粉剂800-1000倍液喷雾防治,连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
病害症状

主要为害叶片和花器的柱头及花丝。叶面病斑浅黄色至褐色,多角形,湿度大时,叶背霉丛厚密,呈淡蓝紫色。
  病害病原

Peronospora menthae X.Y.Cheng et H.C.Bai称薄荷霜霉,属鞭毛菌亚门真菌。孢囊梗卵圆形,稍小,直立,散生或丛生,无色或微带灰白色,大小291—497×7—14(μm),呈锐角二叉式分枝6—8次,顶端不对称,顶枝尖略弯,大小10—18.5×1.9—2.5(μm);孢子囊卵圆形,淡紫褐色,大小21.5—45.5×20—44(μm),未见卵孢子。此外peronospora stigmaticola Raunk称柱头生霜霉,亦是该病病原。孢囊梗无色,长椭圆形,较大,从气孔伸出,单生或丛生,大小272.7—313.1×5.0—10.1(μm),基部不膨大,主轴长为全长l/2—2/3,上部具二叉状分枝3—5次,末枝呈弧状,端尖,长l0.5—12.0μm;孢子囊浅灰色,无乳突,大小20.7—46.3×10.5—14.7(μm);卵孢子黄红色,球状,大小30.3—40.4μm;藏卵器近球形,大小50.5—60.6μm。前者主要为害叶片,形成叶斑,后者为害花器,尤其是柱头和花丝,故称柱头生霜霉。

病害发生规律

病菌以带菌种子或卵孢子在染病的病残株上越冬,翌年栽植带病母根病菌随新叶生长侵染幼芽,成为该病初侵染源。湿度大时能产生游动孢子,借雨水或灌溉水传播蔓延,游动孢子在水滴中萌发,靠芽管从表皮直接侵入到叶片薄壁组织,产生菌丝体在细胞间扩展,同时产生线球状的吸器穿透寄主细胞壁,吸取养分和物质。气温16℃、相对湿度75%该病潜育期最短,利其产生大量孢子囊,使病害扩展。生产上施氮肥过多易发病。
  病害防治方法

(1)加强检疫,防止该病扩大蔓延。 

(2)发病初期注意拔除病株,集中深埋或烧毁。 

(3栽植不宜过密,经常保持修剪以利通风透光,保持干燥。 
  防治药剂可选用50%氟吗啉.锰锌可湿粉(国光三治)400-600倍液、58%甲霜灵锰锌可湿粉剂(国光绿杀)400-600倍液、国光70%乙膦铝锰锌可湿粉剂800-1000倍液喷雾防治,连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
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Miss Chen
3 hours ago
Miss Chen
病害症状 结球甘蓝、紫甘蓝、紫球茎甘蓝、球茎甘蓝、孢子甘蓝、青花菜、芥蓝霜霉病主要为害叶片。病斑初为淡绿色,逐渐变为黄色至黄褐色,或暗黑色至紫褐色,中央略带黄褐色稍凹陷斑,因受叶脉限制而呈多角形或不规则形,直径5-10mm。湿度大时叶背或叶面生稀疏白色霉状物,即病菌孢囊梗及孢子囊。发病重的,病斑连成片,致叶片干枯。其中球茎甘蓝霜霉病,很易流行成灾,生产上须注意防治。花椰莱、青花菜(绿菜花)染病,下部叶片出现边缘不明显的黄色病斑,因受叶脉限制也呈多角形或不规则形。有的在叶面产生稍凹陷的紫褐色或灰黑色不规则病斑,潮湿时叶背也可见稀疏的白霉。
病害发生规律 病菌以卵孢子在病残体、土壤中或附在种子表皮上越冬,南方或北方棚室也可在其他寄主上为害过冬。土壤中的病菌萌发后直接侵染幼苗或其他十字花科植物,产生大量孢子囊,借风雨、气流传播蔓延。进入雨季、雨日多、结露持续时间长易发病。品种间抗病性有差异。
病害防治方法 1、种子消毒,可用35%甲霜灵可湿性粉剂按种子重量0.1%拌种,或50%福美双按种子重量0.4%拌种。 2、提倡选用抗病品种、隔年或水旱轮作。 3、栽植不宜过密,经常保持修剪以利通风透光,保持干燥。 防治药剂可选用50%氟吗啉.锰锌可湿粉(国光三治)400-600倍液、58%甲霜灵锰锌可湿粉剂(国光绿杀)400-600倍液、国光70%乙膦铝锰锌可湿粉剂800-1000倍液喷雾防治,连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
病害症状

结球甘蓝、紫甘蓝、紫球茎甘蓝、球茎甘蓝、孢子甘蓝、青花菜、芥蓝霜霉病主要为害叶片。病斑初为淡绿色,逐渐变为黄色至黄褐色,或暗黑色至紫褐色,中央略带黄褐色稍凹陷斑,因受叶脉限制而呈多角形或不规则形,直径5-10mm。湿度大时叶背或叶面生稀疏白色霉状物,即病菌孢囊梗及孢子囊。发病重的,病斑连成片,致叶片干枯。其中球茎甘蓝霜霉病,很易流行成灾,生产上须注意防治。花椰莱、青花菜(绿菜花)染病,下部叶片出现边缘不明显的黄色病斑,因受叶脉限制也呈多角形或不规则形。有的在叶面产生稍凹陷的紫褐色或灰黑色不规则病斑,潮湿时叶背也可见稀疏的白霉。
  病害发生规律

病菌以卵孢子在病残体、土壤中或附在种子表皮上越冬,南方或北方棚室也可在其他寄主上为害过冬。土壤中的病菌萌发后直接侵染幼苗或其他十字花科植物,产生大量孢子囊,借风雨、气流传播蔓延。进入雨季、雨日多、结露持续时间长易发病。品种间抗病性有差异。 
  病害防治方法

1、种子消毒,可用35%甲霜灵可湿性粉剂按种子重量0.1%拌种,或50%福美双按种子重量0.4%拌种。  

2、提倡选用抗病品种、隔年或水旱轮作。 

3、栽植不宜过密,经常保持修剪以利通风透光,保持干燥。 

防治药剂可选用50%氟吗啉.锰锌可湿粉(国光三治)400-600倍液、58%甲霜灵锰锌可湿粉剂(国光绿杀)400-600倍液、国光70%乙膦铝锰锌可湿粉剂800-1000倍液喷雾防治,连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
病害症状

结球甘蓝、紫甘蓝、紫球茎甘蓝、球茎甘蓝、孢子甘蓝、青花菜、芥蓝霜霉病主要为害叶片。病斑初为淡绿色,逐渐变为黄色至黄褐色,或暗黑色至紫褐色,中央略带黄褐色稍凹陷斑,因受叶脉限制而呈多角形或不规则形,直径5-10mm。湿度大时叶背或叶面生稀疏白色霉状物,即病菌孢囊梗及孢子囊。发病重的,病斑连成片,致叶片干枯。其中球茎甘蓝霜霉病,很易流行成灾,生产上须注意防治。花椰莱、青花菜(绿菜花)染病,下部叶片出现边缘不明显的黄色病斑,因受叶脉限制也呈多角形或不规则形。有的在叶面产生稍凹陷的紫褐色或灰黑色不规则病斑,潮湿时叶背也可见稀疏的白霉。
  病害发生规律

病菌以卵孢子在病残体、土壤中或附在种子表皮上越冬,南方或北方棚室也可在其他寄主上为害过冬。土壤中的病菌萌发后直接侵染幼苗或其他十字花科植物,产生大量孢子囊,借风雨、气流传播蔓延。进入雨季、雨日多、结露持续时间长易发病。品种间抗病性有差异。 
  病害防治方法

1、种子消毒,可用35%甲霜灵可湿性粉剂按种子重量0.1%拌种,或50%福美双按种子重量0.4%拌种。  

2、提倡选用抗病品种、隔年或水旱轮作。 

3、栽植不宜过密,经常保持修剪以利通风透光,保持干燥。 

防治药剂可选用50%氟吗啉.锰锌可湿粉(国光三治)400-600倍液、58%甲霜灵锰锌可湿粉剂(国光绿杀)400-600倍液、国光70%乙膦铝锰锌可湿粉剂800-1000倍液喷雾防治,连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
病害症状

结球甘蓝、紫甘蓝、紫球茎甘蓝、球茎甘蓝、孢子甘蓝、青花菜、芥蓝霜霉病主要为害叶片。病斑初为淡绿色,逐渐变为黄色至黄褐色,或暗黑色至紫褐色,中央略带黄褐色稍凹陷斑,因受叶脉限制而呈多角形或不规则形,直径5-10mm。湿度大时叶背或叶面生稀疏白色霉状物,即病菌孢囊梗及孢子囊。发病重的,病斑连成片,致叶片干枯。其中球茎甘蓝霜霉病,很易流行成灾,生产上须注意防治。花椰莱、青花菜(绿菜花)染病,下部叶片出现边缘不明显的黄色病斑,因受叶脉限制也呈多角形或不规则形。有的在叶面产生稍凹陷的紫褐色或灰黑色不规则病斑,潮湿时叶背也可见稀疏的白霉。
  病害发生规律

病菌以卵孢子在病残体、土壤中或附在种子表皮上越冬,南方或北方棚室也可在其他寄主上为害过冬。土壤中的病菌萌发后直接侵染幼苗或其他十字花科植物,产生大量孢子囊,借风雨、气流传播蔓延。进入雨季、雨日多、结露持续时间长易发病。品种间抗病性有差异。 
  病害防治方法

1、种子消毒,可用35%甲霜灵可湿性粉剂按种子重量0.1%拌种,或50%福美双按种子重量0.4%拌种。  

2、提倡选用抗病品种、隔年或水旱轮作。 

3、栽植不宜过密,经常保持修剪以利通风透光,保持干燥。 

防治药剂可选用50%氟吗啉.锰锌可湿粉(国光三治)400-600倍液、58%甲霜灵锰锌可湿粉剂(国光绿杀)400-600倍液、国光70%乙膦铝锰锌可湿粉剂800-1000倍液喷雾防治,连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
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Miss Chen
3 hours ago
Miss Chen
病害危害 甘蓝黑腐病是甘蓝类蔬菜主要的病害之一。初期可引起叶斑和黑脉,直接影响植株正常的光合作用;后期可导致植株萎蔫或枯死,严重影响了蔬菜的产量和品质,造成减产减收。
病害症状 主要危害叶片。叶斑多从叶缘开始,由外向内扩展,呈楔状(“V”形)至不定形斑,黄色、黄褐色至红褐色,斑外围具有明显或不明显黄晕,斑面网状脉呈褐色至紫褐色病变。病征表现为薄层菌脓,一般不明显,潮湿时触之具质粘感。切取病组织小块镜检,则可见切口涌出大量菌脓。 病害病原 病原为细菌,称野油菜黄单胞杆状细菌野油菜黑腐致病型〔Xanthomonas campestris pv.campestris(Pam.)Dowson〕。病原与菜心、芥兰、包心椰菜黑腐病相同。 病害发生规律 病菌在种子内或病残体上越冬。播种带病的种子,病菌从幼苗子叶或真叶的叶缘水孔侵入,有时因幼苗受侵不能出苗,有时出土不久后死亡。病菌随病残体遗留在田间也是重要的初次侵染源。成株期叶片受侵染时,病菌可从叶缘的水孔或伤口侵入,病菌很快进入维管束,并随之上下扩展,造成系统侵染,致使茎部和根部的维管束变黑,引起植株萎蔫,直至枯死,剖开球茎,可见维管束全部变黑或腐烂,但不臭,干燥条件下球茎黑心或干腐状,别于软腐博 在留种株上,病菌可从果柄维管束进入种荚导致种子表面带菌,或从种脐侵入致种皮带菌。病菌生长的最适温度为25—30℃,高温多雨、虫害严重及连作地往往发病重。
病害防治方法 (1)因地制宜选育和种植抗病品种。 (2)加强田间管理。 采用高畦种植,合理密植;科学肥水,培育壮苗;农事操作,注意减少伤口;田间发现病株及时拔除,收获后清除田间病残体,减少来年菌源。 (3)种子处理。 播前精选种子,并进行种子消毒,可选用45%代森铵水剂300倍液浸种20分钟,水洗后晾干播种;或用种子重量0.4%的50%DT、DTM可湿粉拌种,或用20%喹菌酮l000倍液浸种20分钟,水洗晾干播种;或用77%可杀得悬浮剂800-l000倍液浸种20分钟,水洗晾干播种。应特别注意,菜心白菜种子不宜用链霉素、新植霉素浸种,以免造成药害。 (4)药剂防治。 发病初期可喷施20%喹菌酮可湿粉l000倍液,或45%代森铵水剂1000倍液,或77%可杀得悬浮剂800倍液,或47%加瑞农可湿性粉剂800倍液,或25%噻枯唑可湿性粉剂300倍液,或12%绿乳铜乳油800倍液,或50%DT或DTM可湿粉1000倍液喷雾,防治2-3次,隔7-10天1次,交替施用,喷匀喷足。
病害危害

甘蓝黑腐病是甘蓝类蔬菜主要的病害之一。初期可引起叶斑和黑脉,直接影响植株正常的光合作用;后期可导致植株萎蔫或枯死,严重影响了蔬菜的产量和品质,造成减产减收。
  病害症状

主要危害叶片。叶斑多从叶缘开始,由外向内扩展,呈楔状(“V”形)至不定形斑,黄色、黄褐色至红褐色,斑外围具有明显或不明显黄晕,斑面网状脉呈褐色至紫褐色病变。病征表现为薄层菌脓,一般不明显,潮湿时触之具质粘感。切取病组织小块镜检,则可见切口涌出大量菌脓。

病害病原

病原为细菌,称野油菜黄单胞杆状细菌野油菜黑腐致病型〔Xanthomonas campestris pv.campestris(Pam.)Dowson〕。病原与菜心、芥兰、包心椰菜黑腐病相同。 

病害发生规律

病菌在种子内或病残体上越冬。播种带病的种子,病菌从幼苗子叶或真叶的叶缘水孔侵入,有时因幼苗受侵不能出苗,有时出土不久后死亡。病菌随病残体遗留在田间也是重要的初次侵染源。成株期叶片受侵染时,病菌可从叶缘的水孔或伤口侵入,病菌很快进入维管束,并随之上下扩展,造成系统侵染,致使茎部和根部的维管束变黑,引起植株萎蔫,直至枯死,剖开球茎,可见维管束全部变黑或腐烂,但不臭,干燥条件下球茎黑心或干腐状,别于软腐博  在留种株上,病菌可从果柄维管束进入种荚导致种子表面带菌,或从种脐侵入致种皮带菌。病菌生长的最适温度为25—30℃,高温多雨、虫害严重及连作地往往发病重。 
  病害防治方法

(1)因地制宜选育和种植抗病品种。  

(2)加强田间管理。  

采用高畦种植,合理密植;科学肥水,培育壮苗;农事操作,注意减少伤口;田间发现病株及时拔除,收获后清除田间病残体,减少来年菌源。  

(3)种子处理。  

播前精选种子,并进行种子消毒,可选用45%代森铵水剂300倍液浸种20分钟,水洗后晾干播种;或用种子重量0.4%的50%DT、DTM可湿粉拌种,或用20%喹菌酮l000倍液浸种20分钟,水洗晾干播种;或用77%可杀得悬浮剂800-l000倍液浸种20分钟,水洗晾干播种。应特别注意,菜心白菜种子不宜用链霉素、新植霉素浸种,以免造成药害。  

(4)药剂防治。  

发病初期可喷施20%喹菌酮可湿粉l000倍液,或45%代森铵水剂1000倍液,或77%可杀得悬浮剂800倍液,或47%加瑞农可湿性粉剂800倍液,或25%噻枯唑可湿性粉剂300倍液,或12%绿乳铜乳油800倍液,或50%DT或DTM可湿粉1000倍液喷雾,防治2-3次,隔7-10天1次,交替施用,喷匀喷足。
病害危害

甘蓝黑腐病是甘蓝类蔬菜主要的病害之一。初期可引起叶斑和黑脉,直接影响植株正常的光合作用;后期可导致植株萎蔫或枯死,严重影响了蔬菜的产量和品质,造成减产减收。
  病害症状

主要危害叶片。叶斑多从叶缘开始,由外向内扩展,呈楔状(“V”形)至不定形斑,黄色、黄褐色至红褐色,斑外围具有明显或不明显黄晕,斑面网状脉呈褐色至紫褐色病变。病征表现为薄层菌脓,一般不明显,潮湿时触之具质粘感。切取病组织小块镜检,则可见切口涌出大量菌脓。

病害病原

病原为细菌,称野油菜黄单胞杆状细菌野油菜黑腐致病型〔Xanthomonas campestris pv.campestris(Pam.)Dowson〕。病原与菜心、芥兰、包心椰菜黑腐病相同。 

病害发生规律

病菌在种子内或病残体上越冬。播种带病的种子,病菌从幼苗子叶或真叶的叶缘水孔侵入,有时因幼苗受侵不能出苗,有时出土不久后死亡。病菌随病残体遗留在田间也是重要的初次侵染源。成株期叶片受侵染时,病菌可从叶缘的水孔或伤口侵入,病菌很快进入维管束,并随之上下扩展,造成系统侵染,致使茎部和根部的维管束变黑,引起植株萎蔫,直至枯死,剖开球茎,可见维管束全部变黑或腐烂,但不臭,干燥条件下球茎黑心或干腐状,别于软腐博  在留种株上,病菌可从果柄维管束进入种荚导致种子表面带菌,或从种脐侵入致种皮带菌。病菌生长的最适温度为25—30℃,高温多雨、虫害严重及连作地往往发病重。 
  病害防治方法

(1)因地制宜选育和种植抗病品种。  

(2)加强田间管理。  

采用高畦种植,合理密植;科学肥水,培育壮苗;农事操作,注意减少伤口;田间发现病株及时拔除,收获后清除田间病残体,减少来年菌源。  

(3)种子处理。  

播前精选种子,并进行种子消毒,可选用45%代森铵水剂300倍液浸种20分钟,水洗后晾干播种;或用种子重量0.4%的50%DT、DTM可湿粉拌种,或用20%喹菌酮l000倍液浸种20分钟,水洗晾干播种;或用77%可杀得悬浮剂800-l000倍液浸种20分钟,水洗晾干播种。应特别注意,菜心白菜种子不宜用链霉素、新植霉素浸种,以免造成药害。  

(4)药剂防治。  

发病初期可喷施20%喹菌酮可湿粉l000倍液,或45%代森铵水剂1000倍液,或77%可杀得悬浮剂800倍液,或47%加瑞农可湿性粉剂800倍液,或25%噻枯唑可湿性粉剂300倍液,或12%绿乳铜乳油800倍液,或50%DT或DTM可湿粉1000倍液喷雾,防治2-3次,隔7-10天1次,交替施用,喷匀喷足。
病害危害

甘蓝黑腐病是甘蓝类蔬菜主要的病害之一。初期可引起叶斑和黑脉,直接影响植株正常的光合作用;后期可导致植株萎蔫或枯死,严重影响了蔬菜的产量和品质,造成减产减收。
  病害症状

主要危害叶片。叶斑多从叶缘开始,由外向内扩展,呈楔状(“V”形)至不定形斑,黄色、黄褐色至红褐色,斑外围具有明显或不明显黄晕,斑面网状脉呈褐色至紫褐色病变。病征表现为薄层菌脓,一般不明显,潮湿时触之具质粘感。切取病组织小块镜检,则可见切口涌出大量菌脓。

病害病原

病原为细菌,称野油菜黄单胞杆状细菌野油菜黑腐致病型〔Xanthomonas campestris pv.campestris(Pam.)Dowson〕。病原与菜心、芥兰、包心椰菜黑腐病相同。 

病害发生规律

病菌在种子内或病残体上越冬。播种带病的种子,病菌从幼苗子叶或真叶的叶缘水孔侵入,有时因幼苗受侵不能出苗,有时出土不久后死亡。病菌随病残体遗留在田间也是重要的初次侵染源。成株期叶片受侵染时,病菌可从叶缘的水孔或伤口侵入,病菌很快进入维管束,并随之上下扩展,造成系统侵染,致使茎部和根部的维管束变黑,引起植株萎蔫,直至枯死,剖开球茎,可见维管束全部变黑或腐烂,但不臭,干燥条件下球茎黑心或干腐状,别于软腐博  在留种株上,病菌可从果柄维管束进入种荚导致种子表面带菌,或从种脐侵入致种皮带菌。病菌生长的最适温度为25—30℃,高温多雨、虫害严重及连作地往往发病重。 
  病害防治方法

(1)因地制宜选育和种植抗病品种。  

(2)加强田间管理。  

采用高畦种植,合理密植;科学肥水,培育壮苗;农事操作,注意减少伤口;田间发现病株及时拔除,收获后清除田间病残体,减少来年菌源。  

(3)种子处理。  

播前精选种子,并进行种子消毒,可选用45%代森铵水剂300倍液浸种20分钟,水洗后晾干播种;或用种子重量0.4%的50%DT、DTM可湿粉拌种,或用20%喹菌酮l000倍液浸种20分钟,水洗晾干播种;或用77%可杀得悬浮剂800-l000倍液浸种20分钟,水洗晾干播种。应特别注意,菜心白菜种子不宜用链霉素、新植霉素浸种,以免造成药害。  

(4)药剂防治。  

发病初期可喷施20%喹菌酮可湿粉l000倍液,或45%代森铵水剂1000倍液,或77%可杀得悬浮剂800倍液,或47%加瑞农可湿性粉剂800倍液,或25%噻枯唑可湿性粉剂300倍液,或12%绿乳铜乳油800倍液,或50%DT或DTM可湿粉1000倍液喷雾,防治2-3次,隔7-10天1次,交替施用,喷匀喷足。
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Miss Chen
3 hours ago
Miss Chen
Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) do well as an annual food crop in Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 1 through 7. While they are commonly grown in-ground by home gardeners, they can be easily and successfully grown in containers. Container-grown potatoes can be grown year-round, since they can be moved indoors so long as light requirements are met. To successfully grow potatoes in a bucket, choose your potato variety carefully. You also need to meet the growing requirements for potatoes.
The most important requirement for your bucket is that it be made of material suitable for growing food. Food-safe plastic or garden-safe wood are the ideal materials for your bucket. Avoid metal as it can corrode over time and affect soil nutrition. Your bucket must also have good drainage, as sodden soil is extremely harmful to plants. Drill drainage holes in your bucket if it does not already have them. The size of your container is also important. Potatoes do well in large containers, so plan on 2 1/2 gallons of growing space per potato plant. Ensure that the container is at least 1 foot deep. Preparing the Soil and Growing Conditions Potatoes enjoy sandy, acidic soil that is nutrient-rich. Use a mix of compost and nutrient-rich potting or garden soil to fill your container. Place a layer of gravel or broken pieces of Styrofoam at the bottom of your bucket. This will help your container garden drain better. Fill your bucket almost to the top -- 1 inch below the rim -- with the compost and soil mix. Potato plants enjoy full sun and moist, but not sodden soil. Container gardens are more susceptible to dehydration during summer months. Keep your soil evenly moist, neither soaked nor dry to touch. Place a large dish under the bucket, keeping it filled with water. The plants and soil will absorb water as needed. This method also helps reduce the level of nutrients washed away during watering. Planting Potatoes To plant potatoes, you must start by chitting potatoes. This is especially important if you are planting potatoes in the late winter and early spring for a late spring harvest. Chit potatoes by laying your seed potatoes out in a cool, frost-free and sunny environment. Egg boxes or old seed trays work well. The eyes of the potatoes will produce shoots. Position these upward toward the sunlight for optimal results. When the shoots are 1 inch long, the seed potato can be planted. Prior to planting, evenly spread a small handful of a high-phosphorous fertilizer, such as bonemeal, 7 inches below the surface of the soil. Cover with 2 inches of soil and compost mixture. Then push a chitted seed potato below the surface of the dirt, with the shoots pointing upward. Push the chitted potato down no more than 5 inches deep, and cover with soil. The seed potato should not touch the fertilizer directly as it will burn the sensitive new shoots and roots of the plant.
Varieties and Spacing Potatoes are categorized as earlies, second earlies and maincrop potatoes. Earlies are planted in the late winter and are harvested in early summer. Second earlies are planted in early spring and harvested midsummer. Maincrop potatoes are harvested in the fall, after an early spring planting. You can also plant potatoes in the late summer for a fall harvest. First and second early varieties work best for container potatoes. Salad potatoes, such as the "Charlotte" (Solanum tuberosum "Charlotte") and the "Lady Christi (Solanum tuberosum "Lady Christl), grow well in the restricted space of a container. But you can grow any size of white, red, yellow or russet potatoes successfully in containers, assuming there is enough space for the potato to mature. Unless you have a very large container, plant no more than three potato plants per container, spacing them evenly apart. The closer your plants are, the smaller your spuds will be.
Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) do well as an annual food crop in Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 1 through 7. While they are commonly grown in-ground by home gardeners, they can be easily and successfully grown in containers. Container-grown potatoes can be grown year-round, since they can be moved indoors so long as light requirements are met. To successfully grow potatoes in a bucket, choose your potato variety carefully. You also need to meet the growing requirements for potatoes.
  The most important requirement for your bucket is that it be made of material suitable for growing food. Food-safe plastic or garden-safe wood are the ideal materials for your bucket. Avoid metal as it can corrode over time and affect soil nutrition. Your bucket must also have good drainage, as sodden soil is extremely harmful to plants. Drill drainage holes in your bucket if it does not already have them. The size of your container is also important. Potatoes do well in large containers, so plan on 2 1/2 gallons of growing space per potato plant. Ensure that the container is at least 1 foot deep.

Preparing the Soil and Growing Conditions
Potatoes enjoy sandy, acidic soil that is nutrient-rich. Use a mix of compost and nutrient-rich potting or garden soil to fill your container. Place a layer of gravel or broken pieces of Styrofoam at the bottom of your bucket. This will help your container garden drain better. Fill your bucket almost to the top -- 1 inch below the rim -- with the compost and soil mix. Potato plants enjoy full sun and moist, but not sodden soil. Container gardens are more susceptible to dehydration during summer months. Keep your soil evenly moist, neither soaked nor dry to touch. Place a large dish under the bucket, keeping it filled with water. The plants and soil will absorb water as needed. This method also helps reduce the level of nutrients washed away during watering.

Planting Potatoes
To plant potatoes, you must start by chitting potatoes. This is especially important if you are planting potatoes in the late winter and early spring for a late spring harvest. Chit potatoes by laying your seed potatoes out in a cool, frost-free and sunny environment. Egg boxes or old seed trays work well. The eyes of the potatoes will produce shoots. Position these upward toward the sunlight for optimal results. When the shoots are 1 inch long, the seed potato can be planted. Prior to planting, evenly spread a small handful of a high-phosphorous fertilizer, such as bonemeal, 7 inches below the surface of the soil. Cover with 2 inches of soil and compost mixture. Then push a chitted seed potato below the surface of the dirt, with the shoots pointing upward. Push the chitted potato down no more than 5 inches deep, and cover with soil. The seed potato should not touch the fertilizer directly as it will burn the sensitive new shoots and roots of the plant.
  Varieties and Spacing
Potatoes are categorized as earlies, second earlies and maincrop potatoes. Earlies are planted in the late winter and are harvested in early summer. Second earlies are planted in early spring and harvested midsummer. Maincrop potatoes are harvested in the fall, after an early spring planting. You can also plant potatoes in the late summer for a fall harvest. First and second early varieties work best for container potatoes. Salad potatoes, such as the
Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) do well as an annual food crop in Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 1 through 7. While they are commonly grown in-ground by home gardeners, they can be easily and successfully grown in containers. Container-grown potatoes can be grown year-round, since they can be moved indoors so long as light requirements are met. To successfully grow potatoes in a bucket, choose your potato variety carefully. You also need to meet the growing requirements for potatoes.
  The most important requirement for your bucket is that it be made of material suitable for growing food. Food-safe plastic or garden-safe wood are the ideal materials for your bucket. Avoid metal as it can corrode over time and affect soil nutrition. Your bucket must also have good drainage, as sodden soil is extremely harmful to plants. Drill drainage holes in your bucket if it does not already have them. The size of your container is also important. Potatoes do well in large containers, so plan on 2 1/2 gallons of growing space per potato plant. Ensure that the container is at least 1 foot deep.

Preparing the Soil and Growing Conditions
Potatoes enjoy sandy, acidic soil that is nutrient-rich. Use a mix of compost and nutrient-rich potting or garden soil to fill your container. Place a layer of gravel or broken pieces of Styrofoam at the bottom of your bucket. This will help your container garden drain better. Fill your bucket almost to the top -- 1 inch below the rim -- with the compost and soil mix. Potato plants enjoy full sun and moist, but not sodden soil. Container gardens are more susceptible to dehydration during summer months. Keep your soil evenly moist, neither soaked nor dry to touch. Place a large dish under the bucket, keeping it filled with water. The plants and soil will absorb water as needed. This method also helps reduce the level of nutrients washed away during watering.

Planting Potatoes
To plant potatoes, you must start by chitting potatoes. This is especially important if you are planting potatoes in the late winter and early spring for a late spring harvest. Chit potatoes by laying your seed potatoes out in a cool, frost-free and sunny environment. Egg boxes or old seed trays work well. The eyes of the potatoes will produce shoots. Position these upward toward the sunlight for optimal results. When the shoots are 1 inch long, the seed potato can be planted. Prior to planting, evenly spread a small handful of a high-phosphorous fertilizer, such as bonemeal, 7 inches below the surface of the soil. Cover with 2 inches of soil and compost mixture. Then push a chitted seed potato below the surface of the dirt, with the shoots pointing upward. Push the chitted potato down no more than 5 inches deep, and cover with soil. The seed potato should not touch the fertilizer directly as it will burn the sensitive new shoots and roots of the plant.
  Varieties and Spacing
Potatoes are categorized as earlies, second earlies and maincrop potatoes. Earlies are planted in the late winter and are harvested in early summer. Second earlies are planted in early spring and harvested midsummer. Maincrop potatoes are harvested in the fall, after an early spring planting. You can also plant potatoes in the late summer for a fall harvest. First and second early varieties work best for container potatoes. Salad potatoes, such as the
Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) do well as an annual food crop in Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 1 through 7. While they are commonly grown in-ground by home gardeners, they can be easily and successfully grown in containers. Container-grown potatoes can be grown year-round, since they can be moved indoors so long as light requirements are met. To successfully grow potatoes in a bucket, choose your potato variety carefully. You also need to meet the growing requirements for potatoes.
  The most important requirement for your bucket is that it be made of material suitable for growing food. Food-safe plastic or garden-safe wood are the ideal materials for your bucket. Avoid metal as it can corrode over time and affect soil nutrition. Your bucket must also have good drainage, as sodden soil is extremely harmful to plants. Drill drainage holes in your bucket if it does not already have them. The size of your container is also important. Potatoes do well in large containers, so plan on 2 1/2 gallons of growing space per potato plant. Ensure that the container is at least 1 foot deep.

Preparing the Soil and Growing Conditions
Potatoes enjoy sandy, acidic soil that is nutrient-rich. Use a mix of compost and nutrient-rich potting or garden soil to fill your container. Place a layer of gravel or broken pieces of Styrofoam at the bottom of your bucket. This will help your container garden drain better. Fill your bucket almost to the top -- 1 inch below the rim -- with the compost and soil mix. Potato plants enjoy full sun and moist, but not sodden soil. Container gardens are more susceptible to dehydration during summer months. Keep your soil evenly moist, neither soaked nor dry to touch. Place a large dish under the bucket, keeping it filled with water. The plants and soil will absorb water as needed. This method also helps reduce the level of nutrients washed away during watering.

Planting Potatoes
To plant potatoes, you must start by chitting potatoes. This is especially important if you are planting potatoes in the late winter and early spring for a late spring harvest. Chit potatoes by laying your seed potatoes out in a cool, frost-free and sunny environment. Egg boxes or old seed trays work well. The eyes of the potatoes will produce shoots. Position these upward toward the sunlight for optimal results. When the shoots are 1 inch long, the seed potato can be planted. Prior to planting, evenly spread a small handful of a high-phosphorous fertilizer, such as bonemeal, 7 inches below the surface of the soil. Cover with 2 inches of soil and compost mixture. Then push a chitted seed potato below the surface of the dirt, with the shoots pointing upward. Push the chitted potato down no more than 5 inches deep, and cover with soil. The seed potato should not touch the fertilizer directly as it will burn the sensitive new shoots and roots of the plant.
  Varieties and Spacing
Potatoes are categorized as earlies, second earlies and maincrop potatoes. Earlies are planted in the late winter and are harvested in early summer. Second earlies are planted in early spring and harvested midsummer. Maincrop potatoes are harvested in the fall, after an early spring planting. You can also plant potatoes in the late summer for a fall harvest. First and second early varieties work best for container potatoes. Salad potatoes, such as the
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Miss Chen
3 hours ago
Miss Chen
We have all seen pictures of award-winning giant pumpkins that can tip the scales at more than 1000 pounds. How do they grow such giant pumpkins? Whether you are entering a pumpkin growing competition or simply want to amaze your friends and neighbors on Halloween with your gigantic Jack-O-Lantern, growing giant pumpkins can be a fun and rewarding hobby.
Prepare the soil: Growing giant pumpkins requires top-quality soil. Most growers start preparing the soil in the fall by mulching with leaves, compost and manure. Check the PH levels using a PH tester that can be bought at any garden centre. Optimal soil PH for growing giant pumpkins is between 6.5 and 6.8, but it should be no higher than 7.0. Adjust the PH accordingly by adding lime to raise it, or sulfur to lower it. In the spring, turn the soil and test the PH again to make sure it is within acceptable levels and add a small amount of granular style timed-release balanced fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer that puts emphasis on phosphorus; such as 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 in order to ease transplant shock in seedlings. You will need a minimum of 400 square feet per pumpkin plant, so you will need to prepare your space according to how many plants you intend to grow.
Start the seeds: Giant pumpkins do not grow from just any pumpkin seeds. There are many varieties of pumpkin seeds, and you will have to choose one that is specifically bred for producing giant pumpkins. You can start by looking into the Atlantic giant pumpkin seeds. Start seeds indoors in peat pots early in May. There is no point in starting them too soon because pumpkin seeds germinate very quickly and the plants will need to be planted before they get too big. Planting them early before the weather is warm enough will shock them and even kill them because pumpkin seedlings rely on warm soil as well as warm weather for growth.
Transplant: Transplant your seedlings once they are well established with true leaves and strong roots. You can tell when the seedling has strong roots when you see the roots coming out of the bottom of the pot. Because pumpkin seedlings will grow very quickly, they should be ready for transplanting 7-10 days after germination. Do not transplant too early; transplanting seedlings too soon can result in the loss of many plants because they are not strong enough to withstand the shock of transplanting. Garden pests such as slugs also love to eat tender young shoots, so leaving your seedlings in their pots until they are well established gives the stems a chance to harden off so that the slugs cannot easily mow them down.
Protect young plants: You will probably be planting your seedlings toward the end of May, so the weather can still be unsettled, depending on your location. To protect your young plants from stormy weather and cold nights, it is a good idea to put a clear plastic tent over them until they are established. A simple way to tent seedlings is by building a tripod, tepee-style using sticks or small bamboo stakes that can be found at any garden center. Wrap a strip of clear plastic around the tepee and secure with a stapler, leaving a vent at the top for air circulation. You can also cover the plants with cold frames made from glass windows, but be careful to remove them on hot days to avoid cooking the plants.
Pollinate: Once blossoms appear, pollinate them by hand to ensure that the plants will form fruit. Upon examining the blossoms, you will notice that there are two different types of blossoms, male and female. The female blossom has a small pumpkin at its base, and no pollen on the inside. Male blossoms have a pollen-covered stamen in the middle. Pick a male blossom and remove the petals of the blossom, exposing the stamen, then use the stamen the way you would use a paintbrush, and dab pollen into each of the female flowers. Once pollinated, the pumpkins will begin to grow.
Prune: Keep the vines under control by pruning them, beginning early in the season. Each main vine should be pruned 10 to 12 feet beyond a set fruit. If a pumpkin is growing from a main vine 10 feet or less from the root of the plant, the vine should be trimmed at 20-24 feet in length. Shoots that grow off of the main vines should be trimmed at eight feet of length. Cut ends should be buried in the ground to prevent water loss. Step 7 Select a favorite: The best way to grow truly gigantic pumpkins is to eliminate the competition. Examine the pumpkins on each vine and select the one that has the most potential. Tall, round pumpkins tend to grow the biggest. By the end of July, you should have chosen your champion. Remove all other pumpkins from the vines so that the plants can concentrate all of its energy into growing giant pumpkins. Step 8 Fertilize carefully: In the early stages of growth, bi-weekly moderate doses of a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 will accelerate growth of well-established seedlings and vines. After July, you should switch to a fertilizer that puts emphasis on potassium, such as 15-11-29. Do not over-fertilize! Over-fertilization can cause pumpkins to separate from the vines and literally explode.
Support vines: As giant pumpkins grow larger, they tend to lift the vines from the ground, placing them under stress. You can help ease the stress by gently lifting the vines and supporting them by placing blocks of wood or Styrofoam underneath them. Do not move vines in the morning, because they are stiffer when they are cool, and will break more easily. Step 10 Whether you grow them for competition or just for fun, growing giant pumpkins can be an exciting and educational process for the whole family to enjoy together. By following these steps, you can quickly become an expert at growing giant pumpkins.
We have all seen pictures of award-winning giant pumpkins that can tip the scales at more than 1000 pounds.

How do they grow such giant pumpkins?

Whether you are entering a pumpkin growing competition or simply want to amaze your friends and neighbors on Halloween with your gigantic Jack-O-Lantern, growing giant pumpkins can be a fun and rewarding hobby.
  Prepare the soil:

Growing giant pumpkins requires top-quality soil. Most growers start preparing the soil in the fall by mulching with leaves, compost and manure. Check the PH levels using a PH tester that can be bought at any garden centre. Optimal soil PH for growing giant pumpkins is between 6.5 and 6.8, but it should be no higher than 7.0. Adjust the PH accordingly by adding lime to raise it, or sulfur to lower it.

In the spring, turn the soil and test the PH again to make sure it is within acceptable levels and add a small amount of granular style timed-release balanced fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer that puts emphasis on phosphorus; such as 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 in order to ease transplant shock in seedlings. You will need a minimum of 400 square feet per pumpkin plant, so you will need to prepare your space according to how many plants you intend to grow.
  Start the seeds:

Giant pumpkins do not grow from just any pumpkin seeds. There are many varieties of pumpkin seeds, and you will have to choose one that is specifically bred for producing giant pumpkins. You can start by looking into the Atlantic giant pumpkin seeds. Start seeds indoors in peat pots early in May. There is no point in starting them too soon because pumpkin seeds germinate very quickly and the plants will need to be planted before they get too big.

Planting them early before the weather is warm enough will shock them and even kill them because pumpkin seedlings rely on warm soil as well as warm weather for growth.
  Transplant:

Transplant your seedlings once they are well established with true leaves and strong roots. You can tell when the seedling has strong roots when you see the roots coming out of the bottom of the pot. Because pumpkin seedlings will grow very quickly, they should be ready for transplanting 7-10 days after germination.

Do not transplant too early; transplanting seedlings too soon can result in the loss of many plants because they are not strong enough to withstand the shock of transplanting. Garden pests such as slugs also love to eat tender young shoots, so leaving your seedlings in their pots until they are well established gives the stems a chance to harden off so that the slugs cannot easily mow them down.
  Protect young plants:

You will probably be planting your seedlings toward the end of May, so the weather can still be unsettled, depending on your location. To protect your young plants from stormy weather and cold nights, it is a good idea to put a clear plastic tent over them until they are established. A simple way to tent seedlings is by building a tripod, tepee-style using sticks or small bamboo stakes that can be found at any garden center.

Wrap a strip of clear plastic around the tepee and secure with a stapler, leaving a vent at the top for air circulation. You can also cover the plants with cold frames made from glass windows, but be careful to remove them on hot days to avoid cooking the plants.
  Pollinate:

Once blossoms appear, pollinate them by hand to ensure that the plants will form fruit. Upon examining the blossoms, you will notice that there are two different types of blossoms, male and female. The female blossom has a small pumpkin at its base, and no pollen on the inside. Male blossoms have a pollen-covered stamen in the middle. Pick a male blossom and remove the petals of the blossom, exposing the stamen, then use the stamen the way you would use a paintbrush, and dab pollen into each of the female flowers. Once pollinated, the pumpkins will begin to grow.
  Prune:

Keep the vines under control by pruning them, beginning early in the season. Each main vine should be pruned 10 to 12 feet beyond a set fruit. If a pumpkin is growing from a main vine 10 feet or less from the root of the plant, the vine should be trimmed at 20-24 feet in length. Shoots that grow off of the main vines should be trimmed at eight feet of length. Cut ends should be buried in the ground to prevent water loss.

Step 7

Select a favorite:

The best way to grow truly gigantic pumpkins is to eliminate the competition. Examine the pumpkins on each vine and select the one that has the most potential. Tall, round pumpkins tend to grow the biggest. By the end of July, you should have chosen your champion. Remove all other pumpkins from the vines so that the plants can concentrate all of its energy into growing giant pumpkins.

Step 8

Fertilize carefully:

In the early stages of growth, bi-weekly moderate doses of a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 will accelerate growth of well-established seedlings and vines. After July, you should switch to a fertilizer that puts emphasis on potassium, such as 15-11-29. Do not over-fertilize! Over-fertilization can cause pumpkins to separate from the vines and literally explode.
  Support vines:

As giant pumpkins grow larger, they tend to lift the vines from the ground, placing them under stress. You can help ease the stress by gently lifting the vines and supporting them by placing blocks of wood or Styrofoam underneath them. Do not move vines in the morning, because they are stiffer when they are cool, and will break more easily.

Step 10

Whether you grow them for competition or just for fun, growing giant pumpkins can be an exciting and educational process for the whole family to enjoy together. By following these steps, you can quickly become an expert at growing giant pumpkins.
We have all seen pictures of award-winning giant pumpkins that can tip the scales at more than 1000 pounds.

How do they grow such giant pumpkins?

Whether you are entering a pumpkin growing competition or simply want to amaze your friends and neighbors on Halloween with your gigantic Jack-O-Lantern, growing giant pumpkins can be a fun and rewarding hobby.
  Prepare the soil:

Growing giant pumpkins requires top-quality soil. Most growers start preparing the soil in the fall by mulching with leaves, compost and manure. Check the PH levels using a PH tester that can be bought at any garden centre. Optimal soil PH for growing giant pumpkins is between 6.5 and 6.8, but it should be no higher than 7.0. Adjust the PH accordingly by adding lime to raise it, or sulfur to lower it.

In the spring, turn the soil and test the PH again to make sure it is within acceptable levels and add a small amount of granular style timed-release balanced fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer that puts emphasis on phosphorus; such as 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 in order to ease transplant shock in seedlings. You will need a minimum of 400 square feet per pumpkin plant, so you will need to prepare your space according to how many plants you intend to grow.
  Start the seeds:

Giant pumpkins do not grow from just any pumpkin seeds. There are many varieties of pumpkin seeds, and you will have to choose one that is specifically bred for producing giant pumpkins. You can start by looking into the Atlantic giant pumpkin seeds. Start seeds indoors in peat pots early in May. There is no point in starting them too soon because pumpkin seeds germinate very quickly and the plants will need to be planted before they get too big.

Planting them early before the weather is warm enough will shock them and even kill them because pumpkin seedlings rely on warm soil as well as warm weather for growth.
  Transplant:

Transplant your seedlings once they are well established with true leaves and strong roots. You can tell when the seedling has strong roots when you see the roots coming out of the bottom of the pot. Because pumpkin seedlings will grow very quickly, they should be ready for transplanting 7-10 days after germination.

Do not transplant too early; transplanting seedlings too soon can result in the loss of many plants because they are not strong enough to withstand the shock of transplanting. Garden pests such as slugs also love to eat tender young shoots, so leaving your seedlings in their pots until they are well established gives the stems a chance to harden off so that the slugs cannot easily mow them down.
  Protect young plants:

You will probably be planting your seedlings toward the end of May, so the weather can still be unsettled, depending on your location. To protect your young plants from stormy weather and cold nights, it is a good idea to put a clear plastic tent over them until they are established. A simple way to tent seedlings is by building a tripod, tepee-style using sticks or small bamboo stakes that can be found at any garden center.

Wrap a strip of clear plastic around the tepee and secure with a stapler, leaving a vent at the top for air circulation. You can also cover the plants with cold frames made from glass windows, but be careful to remove them on hot days to avoid cooking the plants.
  Pollinate:

Once blossoms appear, pollinate them by hand to ensure that the plants will form fruit. Upon examining the blossoms, you will notice that there are two different types of blossoms, male and female. The female blossom has a small pumpkin at its base, and no pollen on the inside. Male blossoms have a pollen-covered stamen in the middle. Pick a male blossom and remove the petals of the blossom, exposing the stamen, then use the stamen the way you would use a paintbrush, and dab pollen into each of the female flowers. Once pollinated, the pumpkins will begin to grow.
  Prune:

Keep the vines under control by pruning them, beginning early in the season. Each main vine should be pruned 10 to 12 feet beyond a set fruit. If a pumpkin is growing from a main vine 10 feet or less from the root of the plant, the vine should be trimmed at 20-24 feet in length. Shoots that grow off of the main vines should be trimmed at eight feet of length. Cut ends should be buried in the ground to prevent water loss.

Step 7

Select a favorite:

The best way to grow truly gigantic pumpkins is to eliminate the competition. Examine the pumpkins on each vine and select the one that has the most potential. Tall, round pumpkins tend to grow the biggest. By the end of July, you should have chosen your champion. Remove all other pumpkins from the vines so that the plants can concentrate all of its energy into growing giant pumpkins.

Step 8

Fertilize carefully:

In the early stages of growth, bi-weekly moderate doses of a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 will accelerate growth of well-established seedlings and vines. After July, you should switch to a fertilizer that puts emphasis on potassium, such as 15-11-29. Do not over-fertilize! Over-fertilization can cause pumpkins to separate from the vines and literally explode.
  Support vines:

As giant pumpkins grow larger, they tend to lift the vines from the ground, placing them under stress. You can help ease the stress by gently lifting the vines and supporting them by placing blocks of wood or Styrofoam underneath them. Do not move vines in the morning, because they are stiffer when they are cool, and will break more easily.

Step 10

Whether you grow them for competition or just for fun, growing giant pumpkins can be an exciting and educational process for the whole family to enjoy together. By following these steps, you can quickly become an expert at growing giant pumpkins.
We have all seen pictures of award-winning giant pumpkins that can tip the scales at more than 1000 pounds.

How do they grow such giant pumpkins?

Whether you are entering a pumpkin growing competition or simply want to amaze your friends and neighbors on Halloween with your gigantic Jack-O-Lantern, growing giant pumpkins can be a fun and rewarding hobby.
  Prepare the soil:

Growing giant pumpkins requires top-quality soil. Most growers start preparing the soil in the fall by mulching with leaves, compost and manure. Check the PH levels using a PH tester that can be bought at any garden centre. Optimal soil PH for growing giant pumpkins is between 6.5 and 6.8, but it should be no higher than 7.0. Adjust the PH accordingly by adding lime to raise it, or sulfur to lower it.

In the spring, turn the soil and test the PH again to make sure it is within acceptable levels and add a small amount of granular style timed-release balanced fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer that puts emphasis on phosphorus; such as 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 in order to ease transplant shock in seedlings. You will need a minimum of 400 square feet per pumpkin plant, so you will need to prepare your space according to how many plants you intend to grow.
  Start the seeds:

Giant pumpkins do not grow from just any pumpkin seeds. There are many varieties of pumpkin seeds, and you will have to choose one that is specifically bred for producing giant pumpkins. You can start by looking into the Atlantic giant pumpkin seeds. Start seeds indoors in peat pots early in May. There is no point in starting them too soon because pumpkin seeds germinate very quickly and the plants will need to be planted before they get too big.

Planting them early before the weather is warm enough will shock them and even kill them because pumpkin seedlings rely on warm soil as well as warm weather for growth.
  Transplant:

Transplant your seedlings once they are well established with true leaves and strong roots. You can tell when the seedling has strong roots when you see the roots coming out of the bottom of the pot. Because pumpkin seedlings will grow very quickly, they should be ready for transplanting 7-10 days after germination.

Do not transplant too early; transplanting seedlings too soon can result in the loss of many plants because they are not strong enough to withstand the shock of transplanting. Garden pests such as slugs also love to eat tender young shoots, so leaving your seedlings in their pots until they are well established gives the stems a chance to harden off so that the slugs cannot easily mow them down.
  Protect young plants:

You will probably be planting your seedlings toward the end of May, so the weather can still be unsettled, depending on your location. To protect your young plants from stormy weather and cold nights, it is a good idea to put a clear plastic tent over them until they are established. A simple way to tent seedlings is by building a tripod, tepee-style using sticks or small bamboo stakes that can be found at any garden center.

Wrap a strip of clear plastic around the tepee and secure with a stapler, leaving a vent at the top for air circulation. You can also cover the plants with cold frames made from glass windows, but be careful to remove them on hot days to avoid cooking the plants.
  Pollinate:

Once blossoms appear, pollinate them by hand to ensure that the plants will form fruit. Upon examining the blossoms, you will notice that there are two different types of blossoms, male and female. The female blossom has a small pumpkin at its base, and no pollen on the inside. Male blossoms have a pollen-covered stamen in the middle. Pick a male blossom and remove the petals of the blossom, exposing the stamen, then use the stamen the way you would use a paintbrush, and dab pollen into each of the female flowers. Once pollinated, the pumpkins will begin to grow.
  Prune:

Keep the vines under control by pruning them, beginning early in the season. Each main vine should be pruned 10 to 12 feet beyond a set fruit. If a pumpkin is growing from a main vine 10 feet or less from the root of the plant, the vine should be trimmed at 20-24 feet in length. Shoots that grow off of the main vines should be trimmed at eight feet of length. Cut ends should be buried in the ground to prevent water loss.

Step 7

Select a favorite:

The best way to grow truly gigantic pumpkins is to eliminate the competition. Examine the pumpkins on each vine and select the one that has the most potential. Tall, round pumpkins tend to grow the biggest. By the end of July, you should have chosen your champion. Remove all other pumpkins from the vines so that the plants can concentrate all of its energy into growing giant pumpkins.

Step 8

Fertilize carefully:

In the early stages of growth, bi-weekly moderate doses of a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 will accelerate growth of well-established seedlings and vines. After July, you should switch to a fertilizer that puts emphasis on potassium, such as 15-11-29. Do not over-fertilize! Over-fertilization can cause pumpkins to separate from the vines and literally explode.
  Support vines:

As giant pumpkins grow larger, they tend to lift the vines from the ground, placing them under stress. You can help ease the stress by gently lifting the vines and supporting them by placing blocks of wood or Styrofoam underneath them. Do not move vines in the morning, because they are stiffer when they are cool, and will break more easily.

Step 10

Whether you grow them for competition or just for fun, growing giant pumpkins can be an exciting and educational process for the whole family to enjoy together. By following these steps, you can quickly become an expert at growing giant pumpkins.
We have all seen pictures of award-winning giant pumpkins that can tip the scales at more than 1000 pounds.

How do they grow such giant pumpkins?

Whether you are entering a pumpkin growing competition or simply want to amaze your friends and neighbors on Halloween with your gigantic Jack-O-Lantern, growing giant pumpkins can be a fun and rewarding hobby.
  Prepare the soil:

Growing giant pumpkins requires top-quality soil. Most growers start preparing the soil in the fall by mulching with leaves, compost and manure. Check the PH levels using a PH tester that can be bought at any garden centre. Optimal soil PH for growing giant pumpkins is between 6.5 and 6.8, but it should be no higher than 7.0. Adjust the PH accordingly by adding lime to raise it, or sulfur to lower it.

In the spring, turn the soil and test the PH again to make sure it is within acceptable levels and add a small amount of granular style timed-release balanced fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer that puts emphasis on phosphorus; such as 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 in order to ease transplant shock in seedlings. You will need a minimum of 400 square feet per pumpkin plant, so you will need to prepare your space according to how many plants you intend to grow.
  Start the seeds:

Giant pumpkins do not grow from just any pumpkin seeds. There are many varieties of pumpkin seeds, and you will have to choose one that is specifically bred for producing giant pumpkins. You can start by looking into the Atlantic giant pumpkin seeds. Start seeds indoors in peat pots early in May. There is no point in starting them too soon because pumpkin seeds germinate very quickly and the plants will need to be planted before they get too big.

Planting them early before the weather is warm enough will shock them and even kill them because pumpkin seedlings rely on warm soil as well as warm weather for growth.
  Transplant:

Transplant your seedlings once they are well established with true leaves and strong roots. You can tell when the seedling has strong roots when you see the roots coming out of the bottom of the pot. Because pumpkin seedlings will grow very quickly, they should be ready for transplanting 7-10 days after germination.

Do not transplant too early; transplanting seedlings too soon can result in the loss of many plants because they are not strong enough to withstand the shock of transplanting. Garden pests such as slugs also love to eat tender young shoots, so leaving your seedlings in their pots until they are well established gives the stems a chance to harden off so that the slugs cannot easily mow them down.
  Protect young plants:

You will probably be planting your seedlings toward the end of May, so the weather can still be unsettled, depending on your location. To protect your young plants from stormy weather and cold nights, it is a good idea to put a clear plastic tent over them until they are established. A simple way to tent seedlings is by building a tripod, tepee-style using sticks or small bamboo stakes that can be found at any garden center.

Wrap a strip of clear plastic around the tepee and secure with a stapler, leaving a vent at the top for air circulation. You can also cover the plants with cold frames made from glass windows, but be careful to remove them on hot days to avoid cooking the plants.
  Pollinate:

Once blossoms appear, pollinate them by hand to ensure that the plants will form fruit. Upon examining the blossoms, you will notice that there are two different types of blossoms, male and female. The female blossom has a small pumpkin at its base, and no pollen on the inside. Male blossoms have a pollen-covered stamen in the middle. Pick a male blossom and remove the petals of the blossom, exposing the stamen, then use the stamen the way you would use a paintbrush, and dab pollen into each of the female flowers. Once pollinated, the pumpkins will begin to grow.
  Prune:

Keep the vines under control by pruning them, beginning early in the season. Each main vine should be pruned 10 to 12 feet beyond a set fruit. If a pumpkin is growing from a main vine 10 feet or less from the root of the plant, the vine should be trimmed at 20-24 feet in length. Shoots that grow off of the main vines should be trimmed at eight feet of length. Cut ends should be buried in the ground to prevent water loss.

Step 7

Select a favorite:

The best way to grow truly gigantic pumpkins is to eliminate the competition. Examine the pumpkins on each vine and select the one that has the most potential. Tall, round pumpkins tend to grow the biggest. By the end of July, you should have chosen your champion. Remove all other pumpkins from the vines so that the plants can concentrate all of its energy into growing giant pumpkins.

Step 8

Fertilize carefully:

In the early stages of growth, bi-weekly moderate doses of a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 will accelerate growth of well-established seedlings and vines. After July, you should switch to a fertilizer that puts emphasis on potassium, such as 15-11-29. Do not over-fertilize! Over-fertilization can cause pumpkins to separate from the vines and literally explode.
  Support vines:

As giant pumpkins grow larger, they tend to lift the vines from the ground, placing them under stress. You can help ease the stress by gently lifting the vines and supporting them by placing blocks of wood or Styrofoam underneath them. Do not move vines in the morning, because they are stiffer when they are cool, and will break more easily.

Step 10

Whether you grow them for competition or just for fun, growing giant pumpkins can be an exciting and educational process for the whole family to enjoy together. By following these steps, you can quickly become an expert at growing giant pumpkins.
We have all seen pictures of award-winning giant pumpkins that can tip the scales at more than 1000 pounds.

How do they grow such giant pumpkins?

Whether you are entering a pumpkin growing competition or simply want to amaze your friends and neighbors on Halloween with your gigantic Jack-O-Lantern, growing giant pumpkins can be a fun and rewarding hobby.
  Prepare the soil:

Growing giant pumpkins requires top-quality soil. Most growers start preparing the soil in the fall by mulching with leaves, compost and manure. Check the PH levels using a PH tester that can be bought at any garden centre. Optimal soil PH for growing giant pumpkins is between 6.5 and 6.8, but it should be no higher than 7.0. Adjust the PH accordingly by adding lime to raise it, or sulfur to lower it.

In the spring, turn the soil and test the PH again to make sure it is within acceptable levels and add a small amount of granular style timed-release balanced fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer that puts emphasis on phosphorus; such as 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 in order to ease transplant shock in seedlings. You will need a minimum of 400 square feet per pumpkin plant, so you will need to prepare your space according to how many plants you intend to grow.
  Start the seeds:

Giant pumpkins do not grow from just any pumpkin seeds. There are many varieties of pumpkin seeds, and you will have to choose one that is specifically bred for producing giant pumpkins. You can start by looking into the Atlantic giant pumpkin seeds. Start seeds indoors in peat pots early in May. There is no point in starting them too soon because pumpkin seeds germinate very quickly and the plants will need to be planted before they get too big.

Planting them early before the weather is warm enough will shock them and even kill them because pumpkin seedlings rely on warm soil as well as warm weather for growth.
  Transplant:

Transplant your seedlings once they are well established with true leaves and strong roots. You can tell when the seedling has strong roots when you see the roots coming out of the bottom of the pot. Because pumpkin seedlings will grow very quickly, they should be ready for transplanting 7-10 days after germination.

Do not transplant too early; transplanting seedlings too soon can result in the loss of many plants because they are not strong enough to withstand the shock of transplanting. Garden pests such as slugs also love to eat tender young shoots, so leaving your seedlings in their pots until they are well established gives the stems a chance to harden off so that the slugs cannot easily mow them down.
  Protect young plants:

You will probably be planting your seedlings toward the end of May, so the weather can still be unsettled, depending on your location. To protect your young plants from stormy weather and cold nights, it is a good idea to put a clear plastic tent over them until they are established. A simple way to tent seedlings is by building a tripod, tepee-style using sticks or small bamboo stakes that can be found at any garden center.

Wrap a strip of clear plastic around the tepee and secure with a stapler, leaving a vent at the top for air circulation. You can also cover the plants with cold frames made from glass windows, but be careful to remove them on hot days to avoid cooking the plants.
  Pollinate:

Once blossoms appear, pollinate them by hand to ensure that the plants will form fruit. Upon examining the blossoms, you will notice that there are two different types of blossoms, male and female. The female blossom has a small pumpkin at its base, and no pollen on the inside. Male blossoms have a pollen-covered stamen in the middle. Pick a male blossom and remove the petals of the blossom, exposing the stamen, then use the stamen the way you would use a paintbrush, and dab pollen into each of the female flowers. Once pollinated, the pumpkins will begin to grow.
  Prune:

Keep the vines under control by pruning them, beginning early in the season. Each main vine should be pruned 10 to 12 feet beyond a set fruit. If a pumpkin is growing from a main vine 10 feet or less from the root of the plant, the vine should be trimmed at 20-24 feet in length. Shoots that grow off of the main vines should be trimmed at eight feet of length. Cut ends should be buried in the ground to prevent water loss.

Step 7

Select a favorite:

The best way to grow truly gigantic pumpkins is to eliminate the competition. Examine the pumpkins on each vine and select the one that has the most potential. Tall, round pumpkins tend to grow the biggest. By the end of July, you should have chosen your champion. Remove all other pumpkins from the vines so that the plants can concentrate all of its energy into growing giant pumpkins.

Step 8

Fertilize carefully:

In the early stages of growth, bi-weekly moderate doses of a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 will accelerate growth of well-established seedlings and vines. After July, you should switch to a fertilizer that puts emphasis on potassium, such as 15-11-29. Do not over-fertilize! Over-fertilization can cause pumpkins to separate from the vines and literally explode.
  Support vines:

As giant pumpkins grow larger, they tend to lift the vines from the ground, placing them under stress. You can help ease the stress by gently lifting the vines and supporting them by placing blocks of wood or Styrofoam underneath them. Do not move vines in the morning, because they are stiffer when they are cool, and will break more easily.

Step 10

Whether you grow them for competition or just for fun, growing giant pumpkins can be an exciting and educational process for the whole family to enjoy together. By following these steps, you can quickly become an expert at growing giant pumpkins.
We have all seen pictures of award-winning giant pumpkins that can tip the scales at more than 1000 pounds.

How do they grow such giant pumpkins?

Whether you are entering a pumpkin growing competition or simply want to amaze your friends and neighbors on Halloween with your gigantic Jack-O-Lantern, growing giant pumpkins can be a fun and rewarding hobby.
  Prepare the soil:

Growing giant pumpkins requires top-quality soil. Most growers start preparing the soil in the fall by mulching with leaves, compost and manure. Check the PH levels using a PH tester that can be bought at any garden centre. Optimal soil PH for growing giant pumpkins is between 6.5 and 6.8, but it should be no higher than 7.0. Adjust the PH accordingly by adding lime to raise it, or sulfur to lower it.

In the spring, turn the soil and test the PH again to make sure it is within acceptable levels and add a small amount of granular style timed-release balanced fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer that puts emphasis on phosphorus; such as 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 in order to ease transplant shock in seedlings. You will need a minimum of 400 square feet per pumpkin plant, so you will need to prepare your space according to how many plants you intend to grow.
  Start the seeds:

Giant pumpkins do not grow from just any pumpkin seeds. There are many varieties of pumpkin seeds, and you will have to choose one that is specifically bred for producing giant pumpkins. You can start by looking into the Atlantic giant pumpkin seeds. Start seeds indoors in peat pots early in May. There is no point in starting them too soon because pumpkin seeds germinate very quickly and the plants will need to be planted before they get too big.

Planting them early before the weather is warm enough will shock them and even kill them because pumpkin seedlings rely on warm soil as well as warm weather for growth.
  Transplant:

Transplant your seedlings once they are well established with true leaves and strong roots. You can tell when the seedling has strong roots when you see the roots coming out of the bottom of the pot. Because pumpkin seedlings will grow very quickly, they should be ready for transplanting 7-10 days after germination.

Do not transplant too early; transplanting seedlings too soon can result in the loss of many plants because they are not strong enough to withstand the shock of transplanting. Garden pests such as slugs also love to eat tender young shoots, so leaving your seedlings in their pots until they are well established gives the stems a chance to harden off so that the slugs cannot easily mow them down.
  Protect young plants:

You will probably be planting your seedlings toward the end of May, so the weather can still be unsettled, depending on your location. To protect your young plants from stormy weather and cold nights, it is a good idea to put a clear plastic tent over them until they are established. A simple way to tent seedlings is by building a tripod, tepee-style using sticks or small bamboo stakes that can be found at any garden center.

Wrap a strip of clear plastic around the tepee and secure with a stapler, leaving a vent at the top for air circulation. You can also cover the plants with cold frames made from glass windows, but be careful to remove them on hot days to avoid cooking the plants.
  Pollinate:

Once blossoms appear, pollinate them by hand to ensure that the plants will form fruit. Upon examining the blossoms, you will notice that there are two different types of blossoms, male and female. The female blossom has a small pumpkin at its base, and no pollen on the inside. Male blossoms have a pollen-covered stamen in the middle. Pick a male blossom and remove the petals of the blossom, exposing the stamen, then use the stamen the way you would use a paintbrush, and dab pollen into each of the female flowers. Once pollinated, the pumpkins will begin to grow.
  Prune:

Keep the vines under control by pruning them, beginning early in the season. Each main vine should be pruned 10 to 12 feet beyond a set fruit. If a pumpkin is growing from a main vine 10 feet or less from the root of the plant, the vine should be trimmed at 20-24 feet in length. Shoots that grow off of the main vines should be trimmed at eight feet of length. Cut ends should be buried in the ground to prevent water loss.

Step 7

Select a favorite:

The best way to grow truly gigantic pumpkins is to eliminate the competition. Examine the pumpkins on each vine and select the one that has the most potential. Tall, round pumpkins tend to grow the biggest. By the end of July, you should have chosen your champion. Remove all other pumpkins from the vines so that the plants can concentrate all of its energy into growing giant pumpkins.

Step 8

Fertilize carefully:

In the early stages of growth, bi-weekly moderate doses of a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 will accelerate growth of well-established seedlings and vines. After July, you should switch to a fertilizer that puts emphasis on potassium, such as 15-11-29. Do not over-fertilize! Over-fertilization can cause pumpkins to separate from the vines and literally explode.
  Support vines:

As giant pumpkins grow larger, they tend to lift the vines from the ground, placing them under stress. You can help ease the stress by gently lifting the vines and supporting them by placing blocks of wood or Styrofoam underneath them. Do not move vines in the morning, because they are stiffer when they are cool, and will break more easily.

Step 10

Whether you grow them for competition or just for fun, growing giant pumpkins can be an exciting and educational process for the whole family to enjoy together. By following these steps, you can quickly become an expert at growing giant pumpkins.
We have all seen pictures of award-winning giant pumpkins that can tip the scales at more than 1000 pounds.

How do they grow such giant pumpkins?

Whether you are entering a pumpkin growing competition or simply want to amaze your friends and neighbors on Halloween with your gigantic Jack-O-Lantern, growing giant pumpkins can be a fun and rewarding hobby.
  Prepare the soil:

Growing giant pumpkins requires top-quality soil. Most growers start preparing the soil in the fall by mulching with leaves, compost and manure. Check the PH levels using a PH tester that can be bought at any garden centre. Optimal soil PH for growing giant pumpkins is between 6.5 and 6.8, but it should be no higher than 7.0. Adjust the PH accordingly by adding lime to raise it, or sulfur to lower it.

In the spring, turn the soil and test the PH again to make sure it is within acceptable levels and add a small amount of granular style timed-release balanced fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer that puts emphasis on phosphorus; such as 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 in order to ease transplant shock in seedlings. You will need a minimum of 400 square feet per pumpkin plant, so you will need to prepare your space according to how many plants you intend to grow.
  Start the seeds:

Giant pumpkins do not grow from just any pumpkin seeds. There are many varieties of pumpkin seeds, and you will have to choose one that is specifically bred for producing giant pumpkins. You can start by looking into the Atlantic giant pumpkin seeds. Start seeds indoors in peat pots early in May. There is no point in starting them too soon because pumpkin seeds germinate very quickly and the plants will need to be planted before they get too big.

Planting them early before the weather is warm enough will shock them and even kill them because pumpkin seedlings rely on warm soil as well as warm weather for growth.
  Transplant:

Transplant your seedlings once they are well established with true leaves and strong roots. You can tell when the seedling has strong roots when you see the roots coming out of the bottom of the pot. Because pumpkin seedlings will grow very quickly, they should be ready for transplanting 7-10 days after germination.

Do not transplant too early; transplanting seedlings too soon can result in the loss of many plants because they are not strong enough to withstand the shock of transplanting. Garden pests such as slugs also love to eat tender young shoots, so leaving your seedlings in their pots until they are well established gives the stems a chance to harden off so that the slugs cannot easily mow them down.
  Protect young plants:

You will probably be planting your seedlings toward the end of May, so the weather can still be unsettled, depending on your location. To protect your young plants from stormy weather and cold nights, it is a good idea to put a clear plastic tent over them until they are established. A simple way to tent seedlings is by building a tripod, tepee-style using sticks or small bamboo stakes that can be found at any garden center.

Wrap a strip of clear plastic around the tepee and secure with a stapler, leaving a vent at the top for air circulation. You can also cover the plants with cold frames made from glass windows, but be careful to remove them on hot days to avoid cooking the plants.
  Pollinate:

Once blossoms appear, pollinate them by hand to ensure that the plants will form fruit. Upon examining the blossoms, you will notice that there are two different types of blossoms, male and female. The female blossom has a small pumpkin at its base, and no pollen on the inside. Male blossoms have a pollen-covered stamen in the middle. Pick a male blossom and remove the petals of the blossom, exposing the stamen, then use the stamen the way you would use a paintbrush, and dab pollen into each of the female flowers. Once pollinated, the pumpkins will begin to grow.
  Prune:

Keep the vines under control by pruning them, beginning early in the season. Each main vine should be pruned 10 to 12 feet beyond a set fruit. If a pumpkin is growing from a main vine 10 feet or less from the root of the plant, the vine should be trimmed at 20-24 feet in length. Shoots that grow off of the main vines should be trimmed at eight feet of length. Cut ends should be buried in the ground to prevent water loss.

Step 7

Select a favorite:

The best way to grow truly gigantic pumpkins is to eliminate the competition. Examine the pumpkins on each vine and select the one that has the most potential. Tall, round pumpkins tend to grow the biggest. By the end of July, you should have chosen your champion. Remove all other pumpkins from the vines so that the plants can concentrate all of its energy into growing giant pumpkins.

Step 8

Fertilize carefully:

In the early stages of growth, bi-weekly moderate doses of a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 will accelerate growth of well-established seedlings and vines. After July, you should switch to a fertilizer that puts emphasis on potassium, such as 15-11-29. Do not over-fertilize! Over-fertilization can cause pumpkins to separate from the vines and literally explode.
  Support vines:

As giant pumpkins grow larger, they tend to lift the vines from the ground, placing them under stress. You can help ease the stress by gently lifting the vines and supporting them by placing blocks of wood or Styrofoam underneath them. Do not move vines in the morning, because they are stiffer when they are cool, and will break more easily.

Step 10

Whether you grow them for competition or just for fun, growing giant pumpkins can be an exciting and educational process for the whole family to enjoy together. By following these steps, you can quickly become an expert at growing giant pumpkins.
We have all seen pictures of award-winning giant pumpkins that can tip the scales at more than 1000 pounds.

How do they grow such giant pumpkins?

Whether you are entering a pumpkin growing competition or simply want to amaze your friends and neighbors on Halloween with your gigantic Jack-O-Lantern, growing giant pumpkins can be a fun and rewarding hobby.
  Prepare the soil:

Growing giant pumpkins requires top-quality soil. Most growers start preparing the soil in the fall by mulching with leaves, compost and manure. Check the PH levels using a PH tester that can be bought at any garden centre. Optimal soil PH for growing giant pumpkins is between 6.5 and 6.8, but it should be no higher than 7.0. Adjust the PH accordingly by adding lime to raise it, or sulfur to lower it.

In the spring, turn the soil and test the PH again to make sure it is within acceptable levels and add a small amount of granular style timed-release balanced fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer that puts emphasis on phosphorus; such as 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 in order to ease transplant shock in seedlings. You will need a minimum of 400 square feet per pumpkin plant, so you will need to prepare your space according to how many plants you intend to grow.
  Start the seeds:

Giant pumpkins do not grow from just any pumpkin seeds. There are many varieties of pumpkin seeds, and you will have to choose one that is specifically bred for producing giant pumpkins. You can start by looking into the Atlantic giant pumpkin seeds. Start seeds indoors in peat pots early in May. There is no point in starting them too soon because pumpkin seeds germinate very quickly and the plants will need to be planted before they get too big.

Planting them early before the weather is warm enough will shock them and even kill them because pumpkin seedlings rely on warm soil as well as warm weather for growth.
  Transplant:

Transplant your seedlings once they are well established with true leaves and strong roots. You can tell when the seedling has strong roots when you see the roots coming out of the bottom of the pot. Because pumpkin seedlings will grow very quickly, they should be ready for transplanting 7-10 days after germination.

Do not transplant too early; transplanting seedlings too soon can result in the loss of many plants because they are not strong enough to withstand the shock of transplanting. Garden pests such as slugs also love to eat tender young shoots, so leaving your seedlings in their pots until they are well established gives the stems a chance to harden off so that the slugs cannot easily mow them down.
  Protect young plants:

You will probably be planting your seedlings toward the end of May, so the weather can still be unsettled, depending on your location. To protect your young plants from stormy weather and cold nights, it is a good idea to put a clear plastic tent over them until they are established. A simple way to tent seedlings is by building a tripod, tepee-style using sticks or small bamboo stakes that can be found at any garden center.

Wrap a strip of clear plastic around the tepee and secure with a stapler, leaving a vent at the top for air circulation. You can also cover the plants with cold frames made from glass windows, but be careful to remove them on hot days to avoid cooking the plants.
  Pollinate:

Once blossoms appear, pollinate them by hand to ensure that the plants will form fruit. Upon examining the blossoms, you will notice that there are two different types of blossoms, male and female. The female blossom has a small pumpkin at its base, and no pollen on the inside. Male blossoms have a pollen-covered stamen in the middle. Pick a male blossom and remove the petals of the blossom, exposing the stamen, then use the stamen the way you would use a paintbrush, and dab pollen into each of the female flowers. Once pollinated, the pumpkins will begin to grow.
  Prune:

Keep the vines under control by pruning them, beginning early in the season. Each main vine should be pruned 10 to 12 feet beyond a set fruit. If a pumpkin is growing from a main vine 10 feet or less from the root of the plant, the vine should be trimmed at 20-24 feet in length. Shoots that grow off of the main vines should be trimmed at eight feet of length. Cut ends should be buried in the ground to prevent water loss.

Step 7

Select a favorite:

The best way to grow truly gigantic pumpkins is to eliminate the competition. Examine the pumpkins on each vine and select the one that has the most potential. Tall, round pumpkins tend to grow the biggest. By the end of July, you should have chosen your champion. Remove all other pumpkins from the vines so that the plants can concentrate all of its energy into growing giant pumpkins.

Step 8

Fertilize carefully:

In the early stages of growth, bi-weekly moderate doses of a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 will accelerate growth of well-established seedlings and vines. After July, you should switch to a fertilizer that puts emphasis on potassium, such as 15-11-29. Do not over-fertilize! Over-fertilization can cause pumpkins to separate from the vines and literally explode.
  Support vines:

As giant pumpkins grow larger, they tend to lift the vines from the ground, placing them under stress. You can help ease the stress by gently lifting the vines and supporting them by placing blocks of wood or Styrofoam underneath them. Do not move vines in the morning, because they are stiffer when they are cool, and will break more easily.

Step 10

Whether you grow them for competition or just for fun, growing giant pumpkins can be an exciting and educational process for the whole family to enjoy together. By following these steps, you can quickly become an expert at growing giant pumpkins.
0
0
Article
Miss Chen
3 hours ago
Miss Chen
Zucchini is a garden crop that grows easily and abundantly for most gardeners. Growing zucchini on a garden trellis is an effective way of growing more in a small space because less ground space is used. It also is easier to watch for disease and pests, because the vines are up off the ground. In addition, harvesting zucchini growing on trellises is simple because the zucchinis are readily found growing along the sides. Learn how easy it is to grow zucchini on a trellis.
Step 1 To grow your zucchini plants, choose a location that is on the northern side of your growing area. This will prevent the trellis from shading any of your other plants. Step 2 Pound the side trellis posts at least 2 feet into the ground to make sure the trellis will withstand the weight of the zucchini plants and blowing wind. Step 3 Plant the zucchini seeds at the base of the trellis approximately 1/2 inch under the soil. Space the seeds so there are two seeds about every 3 feet along the base of the trellis. Step 4 Keep the zucchini seeds evenly moist while they are germinating.
Step 5 Watch the seedlings as they sprout and grow taller. As soon as they start touching the wire mesh of the trellis, begin encouraging them to grow in, out and around the wire mesh of the trellis. You can lightly tie the stalks to the wire mesh to train them, but this should not be necessary. The vines will naturally want to grow up the trellis. Step 6 Monitor the plant as it begins to flower and zucchinis begin to grow. Keep the plants well watered. Step 7 For best flavor, pick zucchinis before they grow to be 8 inches long. Zucchinis that grow on a trellis tend to be prolific, and you will need to monitor them daily to make sure they do not grow too large.
Zucchini is a garden crop that grows easily and abundantly for most gardeners. Growing zucchini on a garden trellis is an effective way of growing more in a small space because less ground space is used. It also is easier to watch for disease and pests, because the vines are up off the ground. In addition, harvesting zucchini growing on trellises is simple because the zucchinis are readily found growing along the sides. Learn how easy it is to grow zucchini on a trellis.
  Step 1

To grow your zucchini plants, choose a location that is on the northern side of your growing area. This will prevent the trellis from shading any of your other plants.

Step 2

Pound the side trellis posts at least 2 feet into the ground to make sure the trellis will withstand the weight of the zucchini plants and blowing wind.

Step 3

Plant the zucchini seeds at the base of the trellis approximately 1/2 inch under the soil. Space the seeds so there are two seeds about every 3 feet along the base of the trellis.

Step 4

Keep the zucchini seeds evenly moist while they are germinating.
  Step 5

Watch the seedlings as they sprout and grow taller. As soon as they start touching the wire mesh of the trellis, begin encouraging them to grow in, out and around the wire mesh of the trellis. You can lightly tie the stalks to the wire mesh to train them, but this should not be necessary. The vines will naturally want to grow up the trellis.

Step 6

Monitor the plant as it begins to flower and zucchinis begin to grow. Keep the plants well watered.

Step 7

For best flavor, pick zucchinis before they grow to be 8 inches long. Zucchinis that grow on a trellis tend to be prolific, and you will need to monitor them daily to make sure they do not grow too large.
Zucchini is a garden crop that grows easily and abundantly for most gardeners. Growing zucchini on a garden trellis is an effective way of growing more in a small space because less ground space is used. It also is easier to watch for disease and pests, because the vines are up off the ground. In addition, harvesting zucchini growing on trellises is simple because the zucchinis are readily found growing along the sides. Learn how easy it is to grow zucchini on a trellis.
  Step 1

To grow your zucchini plants, choose a location that is on the northern side of your growing area. This will prevent the trellis from shading any of your other plants.

Step 2

Pound the side trellis posts at least 2 feet into the ground to make sure the trellis will withstand the weight of the zucchini plants and blowing wind.

Step 3

Plant the zucchini seeds at the base of the trellis approximately 1/2 inch under the soil. Space the seeds so there are two seeds about every 3 feet along the base of the trellis.

Step 4

Keep the zucchini seeds evenly moist while they are germinating.
  Step 5

Watch the seedlings as they sprout and grow taller. As soon as they start touching the wire mesh of the trellis, begin encouraging them to grow in, out and around the wire mesh of the trellis. You can lightly tie the stalks to the wire mesh to train them, but this should not be necessary. The vines will naturally want to grow up the trellis.

Step 6

Monitor the plant as it begins to flower and zucchinis begin to grow. Keep the plants well watered.

Step 7

For best flavor, pick zucchinis before they grow to be 8 inches long. Zucchinis that grow on a trellis tend to be prolific, and you will need to monitor them daily to make sure they do not grow too large.
Zucchini is a garden crop that grows easily and abundantly for most gardeners. Growing zucchini on a garden trellis is an effective way of growing more in a small space because less ground space is used. It also is easier to watch for disease and pests, because the vines are up off the ground. In addition, harvesting zucchini growing on trellises is simple because the zucchinis are readily found growing along the sides. Learn how easy it is to grow zucchini on a trellis.
  Step 1

To grow your zucchini plants, choose a location that is on the northern side of your growing area. This will prevent the trellis from shading any of your other plants.

Step 2

Pound the side trellis posts at least 2 feet into the ground to make sure the trellis will withstand the weight of the zucchini plants and blowing wind.

Step 3

Plant the zucchini seeds at the base of the trellis approximately 1/2 inch under the soil. Space the seeds so there are two seeds about every 3 feet along the base of the trellis.

Step 4

Keep the zucchini seeds evenly moist while they are germinating.
  Step 5

Watch the seedlings as they sprout and grow taller. As soon as they start touching the wire mesh of the trellis, begin encouraging them to grow in, out and around the wire mesh of the trellis. You can lightly tie the stalks to the wire mesh to train them, but this should not be necessary. The vines will naturally want to grow up the trellis.

Step 6

Monitor the plant as it begins to flower and zucchinis begin to grow. Keep the plants well watered.

Step 7

For best flavor, pick zucchinis before they grow to be 8 inches long. Zucchinis that grow on a trellis tend to be prolific, and you will need to monitor them daily to make sure they do not grow too large.
0
0
Article
Miss Chen
3 hours ago
Miss Chen
Baby red potatoes are a thin-skinned variety with a creamy texture and mild flesh. They are also called new potatoes and can be steamed, boiled or roasted. While small--about 1 to 3 inches long--they contain the same nutrients as a full-sized potato. All potatoes need loose (to a depth of 3 or 4 feet), well-drained soil with a pH of 5.2 to 6.8 for proper tuber development. Potatoes are plagued with a host of insect pests and bacterial diseases. Keeping your soil healthy by adding compost and rotating crops will minimize damage to your potato plants.
Step 1 Choose a spot with full sun in an area of the garden you have not used to grow potatoes, tomatoes, peppers or eggplants in three years. Do this the fall before planting potatoes. Step 2 Cover the area you've chosen with compost, and work the compost into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Baby red potatoes are planted in early spring as soon as the soil warms up to a daytime temperature of 51 degrees. Step 3 In the spring, when you're ready to plant, cut the certified red seed potatoes into chunks, making sure each chunk has two to three "eyes". Step 4 Plant your potato chunks in hills with two to three pieces per hill. Cluster your potato pieces together, and cover them with 3 to 4 inches of soil. The centers of the hills should be 1 foot apart. As an alternative, you can make a furrow 3 inches deep. Drop your eyes into the furrow 10 to 12 inches apart. Space the rows 24 inches apart.
Step 5 When the potato plant sprouts, begin "hilling" soil or compost around the plant. When the plant reaches 3 to 4 inches high, cover half of the plant with soil. When the plant grows another 3 to 4 inches, cover half of the new growth with soil. Continue to do that until the plant is growing out of a mound of soil 4 to 6 inches high. Hilling the soil prevents tubers from being exposed to the sun. Once tubers are exposed to the sun, they turn green and develop a toxin. Green tubers need to be disposed of. Step 6 Mulch between rows and hills. The mulch reduces weed growth and retains moisture. Step 7 When your red potatoes have developed their first set of true leaves, spray them with a foliar spray made of fish emulsion or seaweed. The foliar spray provides the nutrients your potato plants need to produce tubers and stay healthy through insect attacks and disease. Spray once a week until all the red potato plant flowers are in full bloom. Step 8 When your red potato plants have sprouted, cover them with a floating row cover. The floating row cover allows sunlight and water to reach the potato plants but keeps insect pests from reaching the plants. You may remove the floating row covers when the plants begin to flower. Step 9 Water your plants every other day. The soil should be moist, but you need to avoid leaving standing water. Step 10 Start checking potato growth in late spring. Harvest new potatoes when they are between 1 and 2 inches long by digging gently around the potato plants and using a sharp knife to cut the potatoes cleanly away from the roots. Allow smaller potatoes to continue to grow before harvesting to extend the harvesting season. Step 11 When you have harvested all the tubers on a potato plant, pull the plant up and add it to your compost pile.
Baby red potatoes are a thin-skinned variety with a creamy texture and mild flesh. They are also called new potatoes and can be steamed, boiled or roasted. While small--about 1 to 3 inches long--they contain the same nutrients as a full-sized potato. All potatoes need loose (to a depth of 3 or 4 feet), well-drained soil with a pH of 5.2 to 6.8 for proper tuber development. Potatoes are plagued with a host of insect pests and bacterial diseases. Keeping your soil healthy by adding compost and rotating crops will minimize damage to your potato plants.
  Step 1

Choose a spot with full sun in an area of the garden you have not used to grow potatoes, tomatoes, peppers or eggplants in three years. Do this the fall before planting potatoes.

Step 2

Cover the area you've chosen with compost, and work the compost into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Baby red potatoes are planted in early spring as soon as the soil warms up to a daytime temperature of 51 degrees.

Step 3

In the spring, when you're ready to plant, cut the certified red seed potatoes into chunks, making sure each chunk has two to three
Baby red potatoes are a thin-skinned variety with a creamy texture and mild flesh. They are also called new potatoes and can be steamed, boiled or roasted. While small--about 1 to 3 inches long--they contain the same nutrients as a full-sized potato. All potatoes need loose (to a depth of 3 or 4 feet), well-drained soil with a pH of 5.2 to 6.8 for proper tuber development. Potatoes are plagued with a host of insect pests and bacterial diseases. Keeping your soil healthy by adding compost and rotating crops will minimize damage to your potato plants.
  Step 1

Choose a spot with full sun in an area of the garden you have not used to grow potatoes, tomatoes, peppers or eggplants in three years. Do this the fall before planting potatoes.

Step 2

Cover the area you've chosen with compost, and work the compost into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Baby red potatoes are planted in early spring as soon as the soil warms up to a daytime temperature of 51 degrees.

Step 3

In the spring, when you're ready to plant, cut the certified red seed potatoes into chunks, making sure each chunk has two to three
Baby red potatoes are a thin-skinned variety with a creamy texture and mild flesh. They are also called new potatoes and can be steamed, boiled or roasted. While small--about 1 to 3 inches long--they contain the same nutrients as a full-sized potato. All potatoes need loose (to a depth of 3 or 4 feet), well-drained soil with a pH of 5.2 to 6.8 for proper tuber development. Potatoes are plagued with a host of insect pests and bacterial diseases. Keeping your soil healthy by adding compost and rotating crops will minimize damage to your potato plants.
  Step 1

Choose a spot with full sun in an area of the garden you have not used to grow potatoes, tomatoes, peppers or eggplants in three years. Do this the fall before planting potatoes.

Step 2

Cover the area you've chosen with compost, and work the compost into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Baby red potatoes are planted in early spring as soon as the soil warms up to a daytime temperature of 51 degrees.

Step 3

In the spring, when you're ready to plant, cut the certified red seed potatoes into chunks, making sure each chunk has two to three
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