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Miss Chen
09-10
Miss Chen
古有杜鹃鸟,日夜哀鸣而咯血,染红遍山的花朵,因而有杜鹃花的美名。现今,杜鹃花被广泛栽种,是良好的盆景材料,深绿色的叶片也适合栽种在庭院作为矮墙的屏障。 杜鹃常常采用扦插的方式来繁育小苗,然后再移栽上盆。不过,移栽的话一般带土进行,因为杜鹃的根系非常细小,带土移栽才能提高成活率。 杜鹃小苗移栽后顶芽倒伏怎么办
当然,杜鹃小苗的移栽还需要在合适的季节进行,否则仍然可能影响成活的。一般情况下,杜鹃比较适合在春秋两季进行移栽上盆,因为这两个季节的气温与湿度都比较合适。夏冬两季往往因气温太高或太低而容易进入休眠状态,服盆比较困难,并不适合进行移栽。但即便是在春秋这样比较适宜的季节移栽小苗,杜鹃小苗仍然可能在移栽后出现顶芽倒伏的现象,那这怎么办呢? 杜鹃小苗移栽除了要在合适的季节带土移植之外,完成上盆后的管理工作也非常重要,尤其是光照与水分管理。杜鹃小苗在移栽之后出现顶芽倒伏的现象,一般情况下要么是由于直射光线太强,要么是由于湿度不够所致。因为无论是光线过强还是缺乏水分,往往都会因嫩芽没有及时得到充足的水分而出现萎蔫、倒伏的现象。所以,一般我们需要从这两个方面予以挽救。 一、光线过强 杜鹃小苗在移栽上盆之后,往往需要将其摆放在阴凉通风的地方缓苗,避免日光直射,及时给水保湿。毕竟杜鹃与其它许多树种相比,比较喜欢阴凉与湿润的生长环境,尤其是小苗服盆期间,更应该做好这些方面的管理工作。如果上盆后没有及时遮阴,稚嫩的顶芽会在比较强的长时间光照下出现脱水现象,而此时杜鹃小苗尚未完全服盆,根系无法及时输送水分,所以顶芽容易出现问题。 在将杜鹃小苗移栽上盆后,首先需要浇下足够的水,然后将其摆放在阴凉通风的室外环境中管理。其中尤其需要注意避免日光直射和施肥,毕竟缓苗期间不能脱水太多,而且即便追肥,根系也无法正常吸收,反而可能引起肥害,至少会浪费掉大部分肥料。所以,完成上盆后,摆放位置一定要选择好。
二、及时补水 虽然我们是在春秋两季进行的移栽上盆工作,气温与湿度往往比较适宜,但补水工作却不能忽视。在小苗叶子不停蒸发水分但根系无法正常供水的情况下,为了避免小苗脱水后出现顶芽倒伏的现象,我们需要多喷洒叶面水以保湿。喷洒叶面水一般在中午前后气温比较稳定的时候进行,保持每天喷2次水比较合适,这样就可以减少叶面蒸发水分。而浇水宜在盆土变干之后进行,但服盆期间浇水不能太多,毕竟其根系尚未完全恢复生长,而浇水太多的话反而容易引起积水现象。    以逐渐为其提供光照、增加浇水、适当喷水了。再过一段时间,待小苗生长稳定之后,我们就可以恢复正常的养护管理工作了。
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Miss Chen
09-10
Miss Chen
夏鹃花的寓意是永远属于你,它是送给情人的,比玫瑰花还真诚。他还代表爱的喜悦,我们心目中对美好生活的热爱。它也是自强的象征,也象征着国家的繁荣和人民的幸福。将它送给国际友人,则代表与外国友谊长存,代表着对海外同胞的关心。
其实夏鹃盆景比普通杜鹃盆景开花时间更长久,所以赏花时间也更长。不过,有时我们会发现夏鹃盆景进入花期后虽然现了不少花蕾,却始终不见其开花,这是怎么回事呢?对于夏鹃盆景只现蕾不开花的情况,一般是由于养护管理工作没有做到位或管理不当所致。那么,夏鹃有花蕾但不开花怎么办呢? 事实上,夏鹃盆景到花期出现只现蕾不开花的现象是时有发生的。主要还是由于大家对夏鹃盆景的养护管理工作做得不够细致所致,所以虽然能出现不少花蕾,但自始至终并没有如期看到其绽放的情景。不仅如此,到了春暖花开之际,有时还看到夏鹃猛抽新芽。其实,这种现象我们通常称之为“枯蕾”。 究其原因,造成夏鹃枯蕾的主要原因是大家在冬季怕夏鹃被冻伤了,而直接将其搬至室内养护,而对于冬季的南方地区而言,室内温度往往是比较高的,加之夏鹃本身具有一定的耐寒能力,所以遇到室内气温过高时,其枝叶会加速生长,从而争夺了许多用于孕蕾的营养。在临近花期之际,花蕾会因养分不足而出现枯蕾的现象,自然就只能看到夏鹃只现蕾不开花的现象了。 对于我国南方许多地方而且,冬季的气温往往并不是太低,而夏鹃本身也比较耐寒,所以一般情况下是可以摆放在室外让其自然休眠的,而且通常也能安全顺利越冬。这样做,主要是为了避免夏鹃的枝叶出现徒长现象,避免消耗太多的养分而影响后期的开花。当然,如果是在我国北方冬季的极寒地区,往往是需要在冬季来临、气温骤降之前将夏鹃盆景搬至室内养护的,避免其被严寒冻伤。 不过,即便是在我国南方地区,为了确保夏鹃从冬季休眠状态苏醒过来能快速恢复树势、为接下来的开花绽放储蓄充足的养分,一般需要在花前进行一次追肥。而为了促进开花,肥料以过磷酸钙之类的磷肥为主,但需要薄肥勤施,所以需要控制好浓度。而在养分充足的情况下,夏鹃盆景就不会出现只现蕾不开花的现象了。 可见,夏鹃盆景花期出现只孕蕾不开花的现象,主要还是由于前期的养护管理工作做得不够好所致。而其中最为关键的是缺乏养分,一方面是由于冬季养护环境下的气温过高导致夏鹃没有自然休眠,而是继续保持生长,从而消耗了不少养分;另一方面是花前没有对夏鹃盆景进行必要的剪枝处理和及时补充养分,所以在缺乏养分的情况下导致了植株只现蕾不开花的现象。
鉴于此,我们除了平时要做好各方面的养护管理工作之外,尤其是在花前需要进行必要的剪枝和追肥处理,同时即便是出现只现蕾不开花的现象,大家也无需紧张,而是需要及时采取光温、水肥、修剪等相应的处置措施,确保来年能如期顺利开花。
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Miss Chen
09-10
Miss Chen
盆栽花卉植物的的花苞会变成叶子?大家有听说过这种现象吗?最近,有盆友就发现自家盆栽的杜鹃竟然没有开花,而先前几近形成的花苞也变成了叶子,这是怎么回事呢?杜鹃的花苞果真会变成叶子吗?其实,临近花期时大家看到的杜鹃花的花苞变成叶子是一种错误的认识。因为杜鹃的花苞是不可能变成叶子的,除非有一种可能就是杜鹃所谓的“花苞”并不是真正意义上的花苞,而本身就是外形长得像花苞的叶子。
大家都知道,杜鹃花苞的形成,首先需要经历花芽的分化环节,而在这个环节中,我们必须为其提供充足的养分,这样才能让其如期出现开花绽放。而为了促进开花,通常是以追施磷肥为主,但需要控制好浓度,以稀薄的方式进行浇施。如果在杜鹃的花芽分化阶段养分不足的话,杜鹃是很难顺利完成花芽分化而形成花苞的。虽然看起来与花苞相近,其实这是叶芽,而并非是花芽。 而且,杜鹃的花苞是隐藏在其叶芽之中的,当养分不足时,尤其是缺乏磷肥的情况下,藏在叶芽之中的花苞就无法形成花芽。而到了花期时,虽然叶芽散开了,但始终是无法看到形成花苞的。其实,这是由于没有足够的养分来完成花芽的分化和形成。当然,如果我们能提前为杜鹃追肥,提前让其备好孕蕾、开花所需的养分,那么往往也能顺利形成花苞的。 因此,当大家看到杜鹃出现了“花苞”,却突然变成了叶子,这其实就是一种主观认识的误解。其实,大家看到的本身就是叶芽而并不是花芽,主要是由于我们没能提前追肥,尤其是提供充足的磷肥,所以在叶芽散开时,其中的花苞始终没有如期形成。大家就错误地将叶芽当成了花芽,从而产生了一种误解,这是对叶芽与花芽理解上的一种偏差或错误认识。 这对这种情况,我们需要通过及时追肥,通过人工补充氮肥的做法来促进杜鹃花芽的形成与分化,进而让其长出花苞,最终顺利开出漂亮的花儿来。但追肥一般要在花前进行,花期中进行追肥往往作用也不明显,而且容易引发其它生长不良的现象。所以,为了避免类似现象的发生,建议下一轮花期之前一定要提前为盆栽杜鹃追施磷肥,让其在花前就能储备充足的养分,这样才能确保其能顺利形成花苞。
杜鹃繁叶茂,绮丽多姿,萌发力强,耐修剪,根桩奇特,是优良的盆景材料。园林中最宜在林缘、溪边、池畔及岩石旁成丛成片栽植,也可于疏林下散植。杜鹃也是花篱的良好材料,毛鹃还可经修剪培育成各种形态。杜鹃专类园极具特色。在花季中绽放时即使杜鹃总是给人热闹而喧腾的感觉,而不是花季时,深绿色的叶片也很适合栽种在庭园中做为矮墙或屏障。
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Miss Chen
09-10
Miss Chen
梅雨时期很多植物都都会或多或少遭受一些病虫害的侵入,而此时也需要我们格外的用心去照顾它们。而杜鹃的花期在5-8月,由于不同的品种可能花期也会存在一定延迟。而作为夏季6-7月份的梅雨季节,恰逢杜鹃盆景花枝招展、竞相开放的季节,虽然在这个时间段更加适合赏花,同时也需要及时做好养护管理工作。否则,如果呵护不到位的话,可能引起花叶焦枯脱落的现象,这对于盆景而言是莫大的损失,对于赏花者而言,也必然让人感到遗憾,毕竟盆景的观赏价值会大打折扣。
从夏季的6月到七月上旬期间恰逢是梅雨季,同时也正是杜鹃开花抽叶、发枝旺盛的时期,所以需要尽可能为其提供光照。只要不是被长时间暴晒,一般不会对开花造成什么影响。但如果在烈日当空的晴天,一般从上午9点到下午4点之间这段时间需要及时采取必要的遮阴措施,以避免烈日灼伤花叶而出现杜鹃出现花叶焦枯脱落的现象。但仅此还不够,以为杜鹃耐寒而不耐热,当气温高于30°C时,往往脱水比较严重,同时也容易出现休眠现象,所以为了确保其在梅雨季开花旺盛,遮阴、降温、保湿等工作一定要做好。 杜鹃盆景在梅雨季出现花叶焦枯脱落的现象,主要是光照过强、气温太高、脱水严重等因素造成的。所以,为了避免这种现象的发生,我们首先需要将杜鹃盆景摆放在相对凉爽、通风顺畅的环境中养护,同时做好遮阴工作,一般为其提供半阴的环境即可。当然,确保杜鹃盆景在梅雨季不会出现花叶焦枯脱落的现象,仅仅靠遮阴通风的条件还不够,我们还需要及时做好补水工作。 杜鹃本身是比较喜欢湿润但不耐高温的生长环境,所以当发现盆土变干时要及时浇水,多在早上9点之前或下午4点之后进行。而为了达到降温保湿的效果,我们还需要结合喷水进行,尤其是在像梅雨季的6-7月这种炎热的夏季环境下,更应该多喷洒叶面水和地面水。喷洒叶面水和地面水除了可以起到保湿降温的作用之外,也可以让杜鹃盆景的叶片更显干净、鲜绿,而实现鲜花配绿叶的效果,提高盆景的观赏价值。不过浇水不宜太多,否则仍然可能引起落花的。
当然一般情况下,处于花期的花卉植物是不宜进行追肥的,尤其是处于梅雨季且不耐高温的杜鹃盆景,更应该在花期停止追肥。除此之外,也需要做好病虫害的管理,因为在湿热通风差的环境下,杜鹃盆景比较容易感染病虫害。相信只要通过大家对杜鹃盆景进行精心的呵护和管理,梅雨季出现花叶焦枯脱落的现象会逐渐消失的,而盆景的观赏效果也能得到保障。
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Miss Chen
09-10
Miss Chen
提起酸角梅,不知你的口水有没有悄悄的留出来。小时候很爱吃的一种小零食,那种酸爽恐怕很难忘怀吧。那么家中盆栽酸角梅怎么保养呢? 酸角树可以通过采收成熟种子在春秋两季进行播种的方式来种植出一盆盆创意十足的小盆栽,将其摆放在茶几、窗台、阳台等地方,不仅能为环境带来一抹绿意,同时也能给人带来一种小清新的视觉享受。不过,在酸角顺利出苗成为小盆栽之后,养护管理工作却不能忽视。看着一片枝叶繁茂、翠绿青葱的酸角树小盆栽,怎么无不忍心看见其遭到破坏,所以保养工作必须要做好。那么,酸角树盆栽怎么保养呢?
养护管理工作室盆栽种养过程中必不可少的一个重要部分,而其中又包括多种管理手段。但除了生长环境之外,盆栽的生长及观赏状态往往又与这些管护手段的实施是否科学合理有着比较直接的联系。酸角盆栽的观赏价值在很大程度上受到管理手段的影响,只要管理好了,盆栽自然长势更好,观赏效果也更佳;但如果管理不当或不到位,不仅会影响盆栽的观赏效果,甚至还能引起一系列生长问题。而在日常的养护管理过程中,我们主要做好以下几个方面的工作: 一、土壤 良好的土壤环境是盆栽植物保持最佳生长状态的基础条件之一,对于酸角这种植物而言亦是如此。所以,我们在给酸角配制盆土的过程中,丝毫也不能太草率和马虎。只不过酸角本身对土壤也不是十分挑剔,只要我们能根据其生长习性来培土即可。一般我们需要为其提供肥沃疏松、透气透水的盆土环境,可以使用腐殖土与沙土混合搭配,拌匀后使用。 二、光照 酸角是一种喜阳性树种,生长过程中需要充足的光照,尤其是在花果期,更要光照充分。只要不将其摆放在夏季的烈日下或太强的直射光下,一般还是比较安全的,不会轻易被晒伤。但处于小苗期的酸角树一定要控制好光线强度,毕竟酸角幼树生长较弱,根系欠发达,植株尚且稚嫩,如果光线太强的话就容易被晒伤。但如果大家为了便于欣赏将酸角盆栽摆放在室内养护时,一定要选择一个向阳、便于接收光线的明亮地方。因为酸角长时间在比较隐蔽的环境中容易出现各种生长不良的现象。 三、温度 酸角比较喜欢温暖的生长环境,最适宜生长温度保持在25°C左右。而温度是影响酸角树生长的主要生态因素之一,这也是之所以在我国南方地区种植酸角比北方地区更为适宜的原因所在,因为我国南方地区温暖湿润,更适合酸角的生长。而且酸角本身也比较耐热,在光照充足、天气高热、环境湿润的南方地区能保持良好的生长状态,甚至是在干旱、炎热、光强、水少、土贫的漠地带也能容易存活。 四、浇水 酸角比较喜欢湿润的生长环境,但并不耐水,所以浇水一般等到盆土变干,出现轻微干旱的情况下在浇水比较合适。而且浇水也需要浇透水,避免出现浇半截水的现象,而且浇水也不能过量,所以需要掌握好浇水的频率和水量,避免出现盆土长期过于潮湿或有积水的现象,否则会对根系造成给一定伤害,从而影响植株的正常生长。因此,我们浇水一般采取“干透浇透”的原则。 五、施肥 酸角树对肥料的依赖程度不高,但也比较喜欢肥沃疏松的土质环境,所以施肥不宜太多,适量就好。一般在幼树期和成树抽梢期间以追施氮肥为主,但应当采取“薄肥勤施”的原则,能促进植株的正常生长即可,春秋两季可以结合使用少量尿素进行追肥。作为盆栽种养的酸角小树,往往对养分需求量并不大,但在花果期往往会因开花结果会消耗大量的养分而应当多施入一些磷钾肥,少施入氮肥。平时可以保持每个月浇施一次稀薄且腐熟的饼肥水即可满足生长需要。
六、修剪 对于盆栽酸角树而言,为了保持保持盆栽的可观赏性,我们有必要对其进行整形修剪处理。由于酸角是一种比较高大的树种,而作为盆栽种养,我们要尽可能将其矮化以便于欣赏。为了达到控制株形高度的目的,从幼树期开始,我们需要及时通过采取短截手段来矮化树冠,而且还需要在第一年或第二年剪除掉植株的脚枝、密生枝、细长枝等,保留1-2个主干即可。而对于成树的修剪,一般在采果之后、抽春梢之前,将老弱枯枝、生长过密枝、交叉枝、徒长枝等形式的枝条予以剪除,从而提高树体通风透光性,从而达到促壮结果枝与提高观赏性的目的。 除此之外,为了提高盆栽酸角的观赏价值,在植株刚萌发新芽且叶片长到一半尚且处于嫩叶状态的时候,我们也可以对盆栽施用一些多效唑,这样可以在一定程度上促进枝叶老化,让观赏效果更佳。
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Miss Chen
09-10
Miss Chen
Growing beautiful stargazer lilies seems like a daunting task--how can such a strikingly unique and unusually large flower that seems to defy gravity be easy to grow? It is, however, with a little instruction and a few tips, you too can bring these jaw-dropping beauties into your landscape.Stargazer lilies will last for years with the proper care, and grows easily in zones 4-8.
Determine the location for your stargazer bulbs, and for each bulb, dig a hole three times the bulb's height. Remove any rocks that might impede the growth of the stalk when it emerges. Place the bulb in the hole with the pointy side up–if in doubt, plant the bulb sideways. Cover the bulb with soil and sprinkle with a small amount of fertilizer. Bulbs may be planted in the fall or in the spring. Step 2 Water the emerging plants regularly, although they don't mind drought periods as long as the roots remain cool. Overwatering may cause the plants to rot, so it's best to err on the side of caution as far as water is concerned.Too much water may also attract slugs, which find lily leaves delicious. If slugs are a problem, place saucers of beer around the plant at night, which attracts them and they drown. Step 3 Fertilize the plants in June, July and August with a light application of general purpose fertilizer around the base of the plant.
Deadhead the flower after it has finished blooming, which allows the plant to focus on its bulb, not setting seeds. Simply clip off the flower and about 6 inches of the stem below the flower. Leave the rest of the stem until fall, when you can cut back the entire plant to 3 inches.
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Article
Miss Chen
09-10
Miss Chen
There are few flowers that are as beautiful as a simple daisy. They can dress up well manicured flower beds and also look magnificent among roadside weeds. While daisies are a favorite flower of summer no matter where they are growing, what if they are located in a spot that just doesn't support them anymore? Can you move them to a different part of the lawn or bring them home from that roadside roost? Absolutely, if you time it just right and know what you are doing.
Step 1 When selecting a site for daisies, it is important to place them in a location with full sun. The best time of the year to transplant is spring, which will allow the root systems to take before winter. Some choose to transplant daisies right after they bloom in early summer. Step 2 Prepare the new bed that the daisies will be moving to. Dig a hole twice the size and almost twice as deep as the root ball you are digging up. Fill the hole with water. Even though this will absorb before the new plants come in, it will assure that the new area is moist and will encourage the roots to take. Step 3 If you are transplanting daisies by moving them from ground they are already planted in, you want to dig an extra 5 inches out from around the roots. If you are moving some daisies from a large clump, this will give you more that are likely to survive any transplant shock. The larger the root ball area is, the less shock damage will be done to the roots. Step 4 Once you have the root ball dug, do not shake any dirt from it if at all possible. This will help keep the root ball intact and minimize shock. Place the root ball into the new location. Cover with dirt mixed with a third of mulch. Water again and if any dirt seems to have run off the roots, be sure to add more to cover. Tamp the dirt down again.
Keep your plants well watered for 3 weeks until the roots have a chance to become grounded in the new location. Sit back and enjoy the beauty of the daisies.
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Article
Miss Chen
09-10
Miss Chen
Named for their large, broad leaves, elephant ears (Colocasia spp.) are moisture loving plants that can grow in up to 6 inches of standing water. Colocasia esculenta, which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, is a commonly grown variety of elephant ears. Also called taro, this elephant ears variety usually grows 3 to 6 feet tall and wide, and features boldly veined leaves up to 2 feet long. Uncooked elephant ears are poisonous, and the plants are invasive in some areas of the United States.
Transplanting Time The best time for transplanting elephant ears is when new growth appears in spring. Elephant ears sprout from tubers in spring and quickly grow into large, spreading clumps. In frost-free areas elephant ears can be transplanted any time of year, but transplanting when the plants are small is easiest. In areas of the United States that experience frosts, elephant ears must be transplanted after the final local average frost date. If late frosts threaten after the plants have been transplanted, cover elephant ears with old sheets or several layers of newspaper overnight. Growing Spot A sheltered, partially shaded spot with organically rich, medium moisture or wet soil provides the best growing conditions for transplanted elephant ears. These plants also need protection from strong winds. In a wet site, such as the edge of a pond, elephant ears tolerate up to eight hours of direct sunlight, but the plants grow best in filtered sun or shade during the hottest part of the day. Improve the soil for elephant ears by mixing in organic matter before transplanting. Spread a 4-inch layer of garden compost or aged manure over the growing spot and mix it 12 inches deep into the soil with a garden fork. Planting Hole Elephant ears can establish quickly in wide planting holes. These vigorous plants can grow up to 8 feet tall in one growing season in ideal conditions and produce tubers that weigh 1 to 2 pounds. Dig a hole as deep as an elephant ear's root ball and twice as wide. Remove the plant from its container and place it in the center of the hole. The plant should sit at its original growing depth. Holding the elephant ears plant upright with one hand, scoop the dug soil into the hole with the other hand until you fill the hole. Gently press the soil around the plant with the flats of your hands to firm the plant in the hole.
Watering Elephant Ears Regular watering is essential for newly transplanted elephant ears. Spray water over the growing spot using a garden hose fitted with a soft spray attachment. When the water puddles, stop watering and wait an hour. Test the soil moisture level by pushing your fingers into it. If the soil is moist but not wet, water the plants again. Don't allow the soil around elephant ears to dry out. Water elephant ears when the soil surface begins to dry or more frequently.
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Article
Miss Chen
09-10
Miss Chen
For a dramatic statement in your flower bed, try growing lupines (Lupinus spp.). These herbaceous perennials have mounds of bright green leaves and produce compact spikes of flowers that can grow upwards to 42 inches tall -- perfect for attracting bees, hummingbirds and butterflies. The flowers of these legumes come in a range of colors from white, cream, pink, rose-mauve, pale yellow, all shades of blue and all shades of violet, including one so dark it's nearly black. Lupines generally thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 7, depending on the species and cultivar.
Step 1 Select a well-drained site with full sunlight or semi-shade; tall varieties of lupines may need protection from the wind. The soil does not need to be particularly rich, but it should be neutral to slightly acidic. Test the soil and add sulfur or peat moss several weeks before planting to adjust its pH to between 6.8 and 7.2. Because lupines bloom early in the season and may look unsightly after flowering, place them near the back of the flower bed. Step 2 Transplant lupines in the spring. Dig a hole that is larger than the plant's container. Carefully remove the lupine from the container and gently loosen the roots with your fingers. Place the plant in the hole, fill the hole with soil and tamp down gently to remove air spaces. Water gently to settle the soil. Depending upon the species of lupine, space the plants 15 to 24 inches apart. Apply light, organic mulch to hold down weeds and to help retain soil moisture. Step 3 Water lupines regularly. Don't let the soil dry out completely. Apply a light amount of high potash fertilizer as the buds begin to form. Powdery mildew can be a problem, as well as aphids. Control these with a general fungicide and pesticide. Lupines can also develop viruses that cause stunting and discoloration. If this happens, destroy the plants; do not add them to the compost pile.
Step 4 Watch for the lupines to bloom beginning in early summer and continuing through mid-summer. Deadhead the plants regularly, removing spent flower spikes with pruning shears to prevent seed development. This allows the smaller flower spikes to develop and keeps lupines from spreading out of control. However, if you want to collect the seeds, allow the pods to dry on the plant and then collect the pods. Open the pods and store the seeds in an envelope in a cool dry place until time to plant. Step 5 Sow the lupine seeds either in the early fall or early spring. Scarify (nick) the seeds before planting to quicken germination. Plant the seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inches deep. Because of the shallow planting depth, water gently so as not to disturb the seeds. Young seedlings require consistent moisture to help them establish healthy root systems.
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Article
Miss Chen
09-10
Miss Chen
Himalayan blue poppies are one of the few flowers that produce an intense sky-blue blossom. In their native location in China, they can grow to more than 6 feet tall; in other locations, they average 20 to 28 inches tall. These poppies look best planted in mass displays or threaded throughout a border. These flowers are not a good choice for the impatient gardener; in some locations they may not bloom the first season. The foliage will die down for the winter and you should expect to see blooms the second year. If it is prevented from blooming the first time the bud sets, the poppy is more likely to become a perennial. These flowers are suitable for USDA zones 3 to 8.
Step 1 Select a site for the Himalayan blue poppies. These plants need partial, dappled shade and protection from strong, drying winds. The soil needs to be rich and well-drained and, in colder climates, it needs to be acidic. Several weeks before planting, dig up the soil, remove rocks and other garden debris and test the pH level. If the soil is too alkaline, amend it with sulfur. Add plenty of organic matter to enrich the soil. Step 2 Plant the poppies in early spring. Dig a hole that is larger than the poppy's container. Remove it from the container and gently loosen the roots with your fingers. Place the poppy in the hole, add soil to fill in the hole and tamp down gently to remove air bubbles. Water gently to settle the soil. Space the poppies 18 to 24 inches apart. Step 3 Water the poppies regularly, but do not over water; waterlogged plants can suffer from crown rot. However, do not let the soil dry out between waterings. Give them a light application of general fertilizer in the spring. Downy mildew can be a problem, especially in locations with high humidity. Spray with a fungicide at the first sign of mildew. Step 4 Watch for the Himalayan blue poppies to bloom beginning in early summer and continuing through to early fall. Unless you want the seed to ripen, remove spent flower stems. After all growth dies down, cut the poppies to ground level. Use a plant marker to indicate the location of the poppies.
Step 5 Propagate the poppies from fresh ripe seed in the fall or spring. After the seeds have sprouted, thin the seedlings to 18 to 24 inches apart. Water well initially, but back off so as not to over water.
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