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Miss Chen
04-16
Miss Chen
A salad vegetable grown in almost every garden, leaf lettuce is also called loose-leaf lettuce. Some types of lettuce you may plant include romaine or cos with their upright, long heads, small, soft butterhead varieties, crisphead or iceberg lettuce, and asparagus or stem lettuce. Knowing how to trim your lettuces while still growing them in your garden or after harvesting will help your lettuce last longer and increase the quality, flavor and presentation of your produce.
Step 1 Use sharp garden scissors or shears to trim 2 to 4 inches from your lettuce leaves in the garden when they have grown 6 to 10 inches tall or cut your lettuce carefully to the crown, or the point where the lettuce root joins the stem at ground level. Step 2 Fertilize and water your lettuce greens after trimming; your lettuce greens will regrow and be ready for trimming again after two to three weeks. "Cut-and-come-again" represents this process of growing continuous harvests of lettuce, meaning that you do not have to wait until harvest time to enjoy your produce. Step 3 Cut off all brown leaf tissue, called "tipburn," from your lettuce. Tipburn is a disease where the tips and edges of the leaves decay from uneven watering during the high temperatures of summer. The rest of the lettuce will not be harmed when you remove the leaves with tipburn. Prevent tipburn by watering your lettuce lightly but frequently to keep the soil evenly moist.
Step 4 Trim soft lettuces after harvesting by removing damaged, discolored leaves. Soft lettuces include butter lettuce, Bibb and leaf lettuce. Step 5 Tear lettuce leaves into bite-size pieces when preparing them for a meal ahead of time rather than cutting them with a metal knife; otherwise, the lettuce leaf edges will rapidly become brown. Ascorbic acid oxidase also releases when you cut or chop lettuce with a knife, destroying its vitamin C content. Step 6 Trim the butt of crisphead lettuce, like iceberg lettuce, to within 1/8 to 1/4 inch of the bottom leaf when preparing lettuce for public exhibits, such as vegetable shows. Trim the heads of Bibb lettuce varieties and romaine lettuces by removing damaged, old leaves. Briefly soak the lettuces in water, spray them carefully with water, and then store the lettuces in a dry, cool area until ready for the vegetable show.
A salad vegetable grown in almost every garden, leaf lettuce is also called loose-leaf lettuce. Some types of lettuce you may plant include romaine or cos with their upright, long heads, small, soft butterhead varieties, crisphead or iceberg lettuce, and asparagus or stem lettuce. Knowing how to trim your lettuces while still growing them in your garden or after harvesting will help your lettuce last longer and increase the quality, flavor and presentation of your produce.
  Step 1

Use sharp garden scissors or shears to trim 2 to 4 inches from your lettuce leaves in the garden when they have grown 6 to 10 inches tall or cut your lettuce carefully to the crown, or the point where the lettuce root joins the stem at ground level.

Step 2

Fertilize and water your lettuce greens after trimming; your lettuce greens will regrow and be ready for trimming again after two to three weeks.
A salad vegetable grown in almost every garden, leaf lettuce is also called loose-leaf lettuce. Some types of lettuce you may plant include romaine or cos with their upright, long heads, small, soft butterhead varieties, crisphead or iceberg lettuce, and asparagus or stem lettuce. Knowing how to trim your lettuces while still growing them in your garden or after harvesting will help your lettuce last longer and increase the quality, flavor and presentation of your produce.
  Step 1

Use sharp garden scissors or shears to trim 2 to 4 inches from your lettuce leaves in the garden when they have grown 6 to 10 inches tall or cut your lettuce carefully to the crown, or the point where the lettuce root joins the stem at ground level.

Step 2

Fertilize and water your lettuce greens after trimming; your lettuce greens will regrow and be ready for trimming again after two to three weeks.
A salad vegetable grown in almost every garden, leaf lettuce is also called loose-leaf lettuce. Some types of lettuce you may plant include romaine or cos with their upright, long heads, small, soft butterhead varieties, crisphead or iceberg lettuce, and asparagus or stem lettuce. Knowing how to trim your lettuces while still growing them in your garden or after harvesting will help your lettuce last longer and increase the quality, flavor and presentation of your produce.
  Step 1

Use sharp garden scissors or shears to trim 2 to 4 inches from your lettuce leaves in the garden when they have grown 6 to 10 inches tall or cut your lettuce carefully to the crown, or the point where the lettuce root joins the stem at ground level.

Step 2

Fertilize and water your lettuce greens after trimming; your lettuce greens will regrow and be ready for trimming again after two to three weeks.
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Article
Miss Chen
04-16
Miss Chen
Soybeans (Glycine max) are a common annual farm crop produced for the oil market, as well as livestock feed and human consumption. The warm-weather legume grows under a variety of climate conditions, and many new hybrids offer shorter maturity dates, allowing northern farmers more options for growing soybeans. Soybeans should not be planted until the soil temperature is at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit and prefer average daytime temperatures in the 70s.
Maturity Dates and Varieties Different varieties of soybeans mature at different rates. This is often stated in seed packets as a number of days and reflects the estimated time between planting and crop maturity. Many soybean varieties have maturity dates ranging between 90 and 150 days, with some hybrids developed for northern regions maturing even faster. Select a variety suited for your local climate and its number of anticipated growing days. Late Planting Soybeans respond to the shortening days in the fall by accelerating the seed-maturing process. This means delayed planting may still lead to a harvestable crop in the fall. Purdue University estimates that for each three days spring planting is delayed, harvest is delayed one day. The acceleration of the maturity may lead to a smaller yield because the plant may set fewer pods. Plant Emergence It commonly takes a soybean seed about two days to germinate and sprout. The new plant doesn't emerge from the ground until about one week after planting. Plants are at the most vulnerable during this process and can be damaged by low temperatures or pests. If the initial planting is lost, the crop can sometimes be replanted with a shorter-maturing variety.
Harvest The best time to harvest soybeans is when the seeds are fully developed but the pod has not yet turned from green to yellow. Most commercial varieties of soybeans hold in this window of development for about a week before the pod starts to dry. Once the pod dries, it is likely to shatter during harvest, leading to seed loss. Harvest dates are determined by the crop conditions, since the maturity rate is affected by temperature and humidity levels. For example, a 100-day soybean may take 110 days from planting to maturity if conditions are cooler and wetter than normal.
Soybeans (Glycine max) are a common annual farm crop produced for the oil market, as well as livestock feed and human consumption. The warm-weather legume grows under a variety of climate conditions, and many new hybrids offer shorter maturity dates, allowing northern farmers more options for growing soybeans. Soybeans should not be planted until the soil temperature is at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit and prefer average daytime temperatures in the 70s.
  Maturity Dates and Varieties
Different varieties of soybeans mature at different rates. This is often stated in seed packets as a number of days and reflects the estimated time between planting and crop maturity. Many soybean varieties have maturity dates ranging between 90 and 150 days, with some hybrids developed for northern regions maturing even faster. Select a variety suited for your local climate and its number of anticipated growing days.

Late Planting
Soybeans respond to the shortening days in the fall by accelerating the seed-maturing process. This means delayed planting may still lead to a harvestable crop in the fall. Purdue University estimates that for each three days spring planting is delayed, harvest is delayed one day. The acceleration of the maturity may lead to a smaller yield because the plant may set fewer pods.

Plant Emergence
It commonly takes a soybean seed about two days to germinate and sprout. The new plant doesn't emerge from the ground until about one week after planting. Plants are at the most vulnerable during this process and can be damaged by low temperatures or pests. If the initial planting is lost, the crop can sometimes be replanted with a shorter-maturing variety.
  Harvest
The best time to harvest soybeans is when the seeds are fully developed but the pod has not yet turned from green to yellow. Most commercial varieties of soybeans hold in this window of development for about a week before the pod starts to dry. Once the pod dries, it is likely to shatter during harvest, leading to seed loss. Harvest dates are determined by the crop conditions, since the maturity rate is affected by temperature and humidity levels. For example, a 100-day soybean may take 110 days from planting to maturity if conditions are cooler and wetter than normal.
Soybeans (Glycine max) are a common annual farm crop produced for the oil market, as well as livestock feed and human consumption. The warm-weather legume grows under a variety of climate conditions, and many new hybrids offer shorter maturity dates, allowing northern farmers more options for growing soybeans. Soybeans should not be planted until the soil temperature is at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit and prefer average daytime temperatures in the 70s.
  Maturity Dates and Varieties
Different varieties of soybeans mature at different rates. This is often stated in seed packets as a number of days and reflects the estimated time between planting and crop maturity. Many soybean varieties have maturity dates ranging between 90 and 150 days, with some hybrids developed for northern regions maturing even faster. Select a variety suited for your local climate and its number of anticipated growing days.

Late Planting
Soybeans respond to the shortening days in the fall by accelerating the seed-maturing process. This means delayed planting may still lead to a harvestable crop in the fall. Purdue University estimates that for each three days spring planting is delayed, harvest is delayed one day. The acceleration of the maturity may lead to a smaller yield because the plant may set fewer pods.

Plant Emergence
It commonly takes a soybean seed about two days to germinate and sprout. The new plant doesn't emerge from the ground until about one week after planting. Plants are at the most vulnerable during this process and can be damaged by low temperatures or pests. If the initial planting is lost, the crop can sometimes be replanted with a shorter-maturing variety.
  Harvest
The best time to harvest soybeans is when the seeds are fully developed but the pod has not yet turned from green to yellow. Most commercial varieties of soybeans hold in this window of development for about a week before the pod starts to dry. Once the pod dries, it is likely to shatter during harvest, leading to seed loss. Harvest dates are determined by the crop conditions, since the maturity rate is affected by temperature and humidity levels. For example, a 100-day soybean may take 110 days from planting to maturity if conditions are cooler and wetter than normal.
Soybeans (Glycine max) are a common annual farm crop produced for the oil market, as well as livestock feed and human consumption. The warm-weather legume grows under a variety of climate conditions, and many new hybrids offer shorter maturity dates, allowing northern farmers more options for growing soybeans. Soybeans should not be planted until the soil temperature is at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit and prefer average daytime temperatures in the 70s.
  Maturity Dates and Varieties
Different varieties of soybeans mature at different rates. This is often stated in seed packets as a number of days and reflects the estimated time between planting and crop maturity. Many soybean varieties have maturity dates ranging between 90 and 150 days, with some hybrids developed for northern regions maturing even faster. Select a variety suited for your local climate and its number of anticipated growing days.

Late Planting
Soybeans respond to the shortening days in the fall by accelerating the seed-maturing process. This means delayed planting may still lead to a harvestable crop in the fall. Purdue University estimates that for each three days spring planting is delayed, harvest is delayed one day. The acceleration of the maturity may lead to a smaller yield because the plant may set fewer pods.

Plant Emergence
It commonly takes a soybean seed about two days to germinate and sprout. The new plant doesn't emerge from the ground until about one week after planting. Plants are at the most vulnerable during this process and can be damaged by low temperatures or pests. If the initial planting is lost, the crop can sometimes be replanted with a shorter-maturing variety.
  Harvest
The best time to harvest soybeans is when the seeds are fully developed but the pod has not yet turned from green to yellow. Most commercial varieties of soybeans hold in this window of development for about a week before the pod starts to dry. Once the pod dries, it is likely to shatter during harvest, leading to seed loss. Harvest dates are determined by the crop conditions, since the maturity rate is affected by temperature and humidity levels. For example, a 100-day soybean may take 110 days from planting to maturity if conditions are cooler and wetter than normal.
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0
Article
Miss Chen
04-16
Miss Chen
Growing vegetables in your home garden requires a certain amount of attention to soil condition and pH level. The pH level of soil can critically affect the growth of vegetables, allowing (or preventing) roots to take up sufficient nutrition for the production of the flowers and fruit. If you live in a region with acidic soil, selecting vegetables that thrive in acidic soil will bring you a better harvest.
Potatoes Potatoes (both Irish potatoes and sweet potatoes) prefer acidic soil conditions. The ideal pH range for this crop is 4.8 to 5.5, according to the Cornell University Vegetable Growing Guide. Potatoes need a light, loose, well-draining soil that is high in organic matter. To add nutrients and help aerate the soil, work in soil amendment such as peat moss, compost or manure at planting time. Avoid adding too much nitrogen-rich fertilizer, which will encourage the potato plants to grow foliage at the expense of tuber production. Eggplant Eggplants also grow well in slightly acidic soil (pH level between 5.5 and 7.5). The eggplant is a heat-loving plant that requires full sun and frost-free temperatures. The crop will benefit from the addition of compost or manure to increase the amount of organic matter in the soil. Mulching plants helps to keep down weeds and retain moisture. Tomatoes Tomatoes prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH range of 6.2 to 6.8, according to the University of Rhode Island Landscape Horticulture Program. A loamy, well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter will help tomato plants grow and produce. Tomatoes also benefit from the application of fertilizer that contains phosphorus, but fertilizer with too much nitrogen can inhibit fruit production. A 5-10-10 or 5-20-20 fertilizer is recommended. These numbers designate the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the fertilizer formula. Nitrogen is always the first number in the formula, phosphorus is the second and potassium is the third.
Green Peppers Green peppers can be grown in slightly acidic soil in the range of 6.0 to 6.8. They require well-draining soil with moderate fertility for best results. Peppers are warm season vegetables that will experience blossom drop if exposed to night temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They will also suffer from poor fruiting if the blossoms develop into the fruit (called "fruit setting") when temperatures are above 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, according to Ohio State horticulturist Marianne Riofrio. Squash Squash will grow in acidic soils with a pH range of 5.5 to 6.8, according to the University of Connecticut website. Add compost or manure at planting time to condition the soil and retain moisture. Mulching helps to control weeds that compete for nutrients with the squash plants. Do not mulch with grass clippings from lawns that have been treated with an herbicide. Kale Kale prefers soil in the pH range of 6.0 to 7.0 for best growth, according to the University of Rhode Island Landscape Horticulture Program. Kale is a cool weather crop that prefers daytime temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Mulching will help to keep roots cool and free of weeds.
Growing vegetables in your home garden requires a certain amount of attention to soil condition and pH level. The pH level of soil can critically affect the growth of vegetables, allowing (or preventing) roots to take up sufficient nutrition for the production of the flowers and fruit. If you live in a region with acidic soil, selecting vegetables that thrive in acidic soil will bring you a better harvest.
  Potatoes
Potatoes (both Irish potatoes and sweet potatoes) prefer acidic soil conditions. The ideal pH range for this crop is 4.8 to 5.5, according to the Cornell University Vegetable Growing Guide. Potatoes need a light, loose, well-draining soil that is high in organic matter. To add nutrients and help aerate the soil, work in soil amendment such as peat moss, compost or manure at planting time. Avoid adding too much nitrogen-rich fertilizer, which will encourage the potato plants to grow foliage at the expense of tuber production.

Eggplant
Eggplants also grow well in slightly acidic soil (pH level between 5.5 and 7.5). The eggplant is a heat-loving plant that requires full sun and frost-free temperatures. The crop will benefit from the addition of compost or manure to increase the amount of organic matter in the soil. Mulching plants helps to keep down weeds and retain moisture.

Tomatoes
Tomatoes prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH range of 6.2 to 6.8, according to the University of Rhode Island Landscape Horticulture Program. A loamy, well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter will help tomato plants grow and produce. Tomatoes also benefit from the application of fertilizer that contains phosphorus, but fertilizer with too much nitrogen can inhibit fruit production. A 5-10-10 or 5-20-20 fertilizer is recommended. These numbers designate the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the fertilizer formula. Nitrogen is always the first number in the formula, phosphorus is the second and potassium is the third.
  Green Peppers
Green peppers can be grown in slightly acidic soil in the range of 6.0 to 6.8. They require well-draining soil with moderate fertility for best results. Peppers are warm season vegetables that will experience blossom drop if exposed to night temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They will also suffer from poor fruiting if the blossoms develop into the fruit (called
Growing vegetables in your home garden requires a certain amount of attention to soil condition and pH level. The pH level of soil can critically affect the growth of vegetables, allowing (or preventing) roots to take up sufficient nutrition for the production of the flowers and fruit. If you live in a region with acidic soil, selecting vegetables that thrive in acidic soil will bring you a better harvest.
  Potatoes
Potatoes (both Irish potatoes and sweet potatoes) prefer acidic soil conditions. The ideal pH range for this crop is 4.8 to 5.5, according to the Cornell University Vegetable Growing Guide. Potatoes need a light, loose, well-draining soil that is high in organic matter. To add nutrients and help aerate the soil, work in soil amendment such as peat moss, compost or manure at planting time. Avoid adding too much nitrogen-rich fertilizer, which will encourage the potato plants to grow foliage at the expense of tuber production.

Eggplant
Eggplants also grow well in slightly acidic soil (pH level between 5.5 and 7.5). The eggplant is a heat-loving plant that requires full sun and frost-free temperatures. The crop will benefit from the addition of compost or manure to increase the amount of organic matter in the soil. Mulching plants helps to keep down weeds and retain moisture.

Tomatoes
Tomatoes prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH range of 6.2 to 6.8, according to the University of Rhode Island Landscape Horticulture Program. A loamy, well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter will help tomato plants grow and produce. Tomatoes also benefit from the application of fertilizer that contains phosphorus, but fertilizer with too much nitrogen can inhibit fruit production. A 5-10-10 or 5-20-20 fertilizer is recommended. These numbers designate the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the fertilizer formula. Nitrogen is always the first number in the formula, phosphorus is the second and potassium is the third.
  Green Peppers
Green peppers can be grown in slightly acidic soil in the range of 6.0 to 6.8. They require well-draining soil with moderate fertility for best results. Peppers are warm season vegetables that will experience blossom drop if exposed to night temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They will also suffer from poor fruiting if the blossoms develop into the fruit (called
Growing vegetables in your home garden requires a certain amount of attention to soil condition and pH level. The pH level of soil can critically affect the growth of vegetables, allowing (or preventing) roots to take up sufficient nutrition for the production of the flowers and fruit. If you live in a region with acidic soil, selecting vegetables that thrive in acidic soil will bring you a better harvest.
  Potatoes
Potatoes (both Irish potatoes and sweet potatoes) prefer acidic soil conditions. The ideal pH range for this crop is 4.8 to 5.5, according to the Cornell University Vegetable Growing Guide. Potatoes need a light, loose, well-draining soil that is high in organic matter. To add nutrients and help aerate the soil, work in soil amendment such as peat moss, compost or manure at planting time. Avoid adding too much nitrogen-rich fertilizer, which will encourage the potato plants to grow foliage at the expense of tuber production.

Eggplant
Eggplants also grow well in slightly acidic soil (pH level between 5.5 and 7.5). The eggplant is a heat-loving plant that requires full sun and frost-free temperatures. The crop will benefit from the addition of compost or manure to increase the amount of organic matter in the soil. Mulching plants helps to keep down weeds and retain moisture.

Tomatoes
Tomatoes prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH range of 6.2 to 6.8, according to the University of Rhode Island Landscape Horticulture Program. A loamy, well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter will help tomato plants grow and produce. Tomatoes also benefit from the application of fertilizer that contains phosphorus, but fertilizer with too much nitrogen can inhibit fruit production. A 5-10-10 or 5-20-20 fertilizer is recommended. These numbers designate the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the fertilizer formula. Nitrogen is always the first number in the formula, phosphorus is the second and potassium is the third.
  Green Peppers
Green peppers can be grown in slightly acidic soil in the range of 6.0 to 6.8. They require well-draining soil with moderate fertility for best results. Peppers are warm season vegetables that will experience blossom drop if exposed to night temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They will also suffer from poor fruiting if the blossoms develop into the fruit (called
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0
Article
Miss Chen
04-16
Miss Chen
The humble potato, Solanum tuberosum, is native to North America but grown the world over as a nutritious staple food and delicious dinner vegetable fried, baked, mashed or roasted. Potatoes are easy to grow in the home garden and available in hundreds of different varieties. Once planted, potatoes emerge from the soil quickly, depending on temperature, planting conditions and the variety you are growing.
Soil Temperature Seed potatoes planted in garden soil at the recommended depth of about 4 inches should emerge from the soil in two to four weeks, according to Cornell University. However, if soil temperature is too cold or the ground is too wet or too dry, seed potato pieces are likely to rot in the ground and not sprout, or take considerably longer to emerge from the soil. As long as the ground has warmed, sprouting potatoes that may be killed back by late-spring frosts will emerge again and grow successfully through the summer season. Hill up soil around emerging potato plants; this practice will compel them to grow longer root systems that will produce more potatoes. Curing Seed Potatoes Small seed potatoes can be planted whole, while ones larger than a small egg should be cut into pieces, with each piece containing one or more eyes from which the growth will sprout. Curing the cut seed potato pieces before planting them will help to ensure better germination rates and faster emergence, according to Cornell University, although this is a point of disagreement among experts, with the Ohio State University Extension recommending planting immediately after seed potatoes are cut. To follow Cornell's recommended curing process, put cut seed potato pieces in a brown paper bag and store at room temperature for four to six days, shaking occasionally to prevent pieces from sticking together, then plant in a prepared trench in garden soil.
Sprouted Potatoes You can speed up the potato emergence process by pre-sprouting your potatoes, advises the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Science. Start with small, whole seed potatoes, and lay them out in a single layer in a room that receives sun and keeps a temperature consistently over 60 degrees. The potatoes will develop small green sprouts that, in large quantities, may be toxic, so don't eat your greened potatoes. Plant the sprouted potatoes about 4 inches deep, with the sprouts pointed upwards, and the potato plants will emerge from the soil faster than unsprouted plantings. Don't plant sprouted potatoes too deeply or you will delay their emergence. Straw Potatoes Market gardeners looking for perfectly-shaped potato tubers, and gardeners looking to submit prize-winning large potatoes at county fair competitions, often use a method called straw potato growing. Plant by placing seed potatoes at the surface of loosened, cultivated soil, then covering with 6 inches of loose straw. The potato plants will emerge through the straw, usually in just 2 to 3 weeks, because they do not have several inches of soil to grow through. Add more straw around the plants as they grow and as the earlier straw layers compact. Harvest at the end of the season by pulling back the straw, which eliminates the risk of slicing tubers when digging them out with a shovel.
The humble potato, Solanum tuberosum, is native to North America but grown the world over as a nutritious staple food and delicious dinner vegetable fried, baked, mashed or roasted. Potatoes are easy to grow in the home garden and available in hundreds of different varieties. Once planted, potatoes emerge from the soil quickly, depending on temperature, planting conditions and the variety you are growing.
  Soil Temperature
Seed potatoes planted in garden soil at the recommended depth of about 4 inches should emerge from the soil in two to four weeks, according to Cornell University. However, if soil temperature is too cold or the ground is too wet or too dry, seed potato pieces are likely to rot in the ground and not sprout, or take considerably longer to emerge from the soil. As long as the ground has warmed, sprouting potatoes that may be killed back by late-spring frosts will emerge again and grow successfully through the summer season. Hill up soil around emerging potato plants; this practice will compel them to grow longer root systems that will produce more potatoes.

Curing Seed Potatoes
Small seed potatoes can be planted whole, while ones larger than a small egg should be cut into pieces, with each piece containing one or more eyes from which the growth will sprout. Curing the cut seed potato pieces before planting them will help to ensure better germination rates and faster emergence, according to Cornell University, although this is a point of disagreement among experts, with the Ohio State University Extension recommending planting immediately after seed potatoes are cut. To follow Cornell's recommended curing process, put cut seed potato pieces in a brown paper bag and store at room temperature for four to six days, shaking occasionally to prevent pieces from sticking together, then plant in a prepared trench in garden soil.
  Sprouted Potatoes
You can speed up the potato emergence process by pre-sprouting your potatoes, advises the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Science. Start with small, whole seed potatoes, and lay them out in a single layer in a room that receives sun and keeps a temperature consistently over 60 degrees. The potatoes will develop small green sprouts that, in large quantities, may be toxic, so don't eat your greened potatoes. Plant the sprouted potatoes about 4 inches deep, with the sprouts pointed upwards, and the potato plants will emerge from the soil faster than unsprouted plantings. Don't plant sprouted potatoes too deeply or you will delay their emergence.

Straw Potatoes
Market gardeners looking for perfectly-shaped potato tubers, and gardeners looking to submit prize-winning large potatoes at county fair competitions, often use a method called straw potato growing. Plant by placing seed potatoes at the surface of loosened, cultivated soil, then covering with 6 inches of loose straw. The potato plants will emerge through the straw, usually in just 2 to 3 weeks, because they do not have several inches of soil to grow through. Add more straw around the plants as they grow and as the earlier straw layers compact. Harvest at the end of the season by pulling back the straw, which eliminates the risk of slicing tubers when digging them out with a shovel.
The humble potato, Solanum tuberosum, is native to North America but grown the world over as a nutritious staple food and delicious dinner vegetable fried, baked, mashed or roasted. Potatoes are easy to grow in the home garden and available in hundreds of different varieties. Once planted, potatoes emerge from the soil quickly, depending on temperature, planting conditions and the variety you are growing.
  Soil Temperature
Seed potatoes planted in garden soil at the recommended depth of about 4 inches should emerge from the soil in two to four weeks, according to Cornell University. However, if soil temperature is too cold or the ground is too wet or too dry, seed potato pieces are likely to rot in the ground and not sprout, or take considerably longer to emerge from the soil. As long as the ground has warmed, sprouting potatoes that may be killed back by late-spring frosts will emerge again and grow successfully through the summer season. Hill up soil around emerging potato plants; this practice will compel them to grow longer root systems that will produce more potatoes.

Curing Seed Potatoes
Small seed potatoes can be planted whole, while ones larger than a small egg should be cut into pieces, with each piece containing one or more eyes from which the growth will sprout. Curing the cut seed potato pieces before planting them will help to ensure better germination rates and faster emergence, according to Cornell University, although this is a point of disagreement among experts, with the Ohio State University Extension recommending planting immediately after seed potatoes are cut. To follow Cornell's recommended curing process, put cut seed potato pieces in a brown paper bag and store at room temperature for four to six days, shaking occasionally to prevent pieces from sticking together, then plant in a prepared trench in garden soil.
  Sprouted Potatoes
You can speed up the potato emergence process by pre-sprouting your potatoes, advises the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Science. Start with small, whole seed potatoes, and lay them out in a single layer in a room that receives sun and keeps a temperature consistently over 60 degrees. The potatoes will develop small green sprouts that, in large quantities, may be toxic, so don't eat your greened potatoes. Plant the sprouted potatoes about 4 inches deep, with the sprouts pointed upwards, and the potato plants will emerge from the soil faster than unsprouted plantings. Don't plant sprouted potatoes too deeply or you will delay their emergence.

Straw Potatoes
Market gardeners looking for perfectly-shaped potato tubers, and gardeners looking to submit prize-winning large potatoes at county fair competitions, often use a method called straw potato growing. Plant by placing seed potatoes at the surface of loosened, cultivated soil, then covering with 6 inches of loose straw. The potato plants will emerge through the straw, usually in just 2 to 3 weeks, because they do not have several inches of soil to grow through. Add more straw around the plants as they grow and as the earlier straw layers compact. Harvest at the end of the season by pulling back the straw, which eliminates the risk of slicing tubers when digging them out with a shovel.
The humble potato, Solanum tuberosum, is native to North America but grown the world over as a nutritious staple food and delicious dinner vegetable fried, baked, mashed or roasted. Potatoes are easy to grow in the home garden and available in hundreds of different varieties. Once planted, potatoes emerge from the soil quickly, depending on temperature, planting conditions and the variety you are growing.
  Soil Temperature
Seed potatoes planted in garden soil at the recommended depth of about 4 inches should emerge from the soil in two to four weeks, according to Cornell University. However, if soil temperature is too cold or the ground is too wet or too dry, seed potato pieces are likely to rot in the ground and not sprout, or take considerably longer to emerge from the soil. As long as the ground has warmed, sprouting potatoes that may be killed back by late-spring frosts will emerge again and grow successfully through the summer season. Hill up soil around emerging potato plants; this practice will compel them to grow longer root systems that will produce more potatoes.

Curing Seed Potatoes
Small seed potatoes can be planted whole, while ones larger than a small egg should be cut into pieces, with each piece containing one or more eyes from which the growth will sprout. Curing the cut seed potato pieces before planting them will help to ensure better germination rates and faster emergence, according to Cornell University, although this is a point of disagreement among experts, with the Ohio State University Extension recommending planting immediately after seed potatoes are cut. To follow Cornell's recommended curing process, put cut seed potato pieces in a brown paper bag and store at room temperature for four to six days, shaking occasionally to prevent pieces from sticking together, then plant in a prepared trench in garden soil.
  Sprouted Potatoes
You can speed up the potato emergence process by pre-sprouting your potatoes, advises the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Science. Start with small, whole seed potatoes, and lay them out in a single layer in a room that receives sun and keeps a temperature consistently over 60 degrees. The potatoes will develop small green sprouts that, in large quantities, may be toxic, so don't eat your greened potatoes. Plant the sprouted potatoes about 4 inches deep, with the sprouts pointed upwards, and the potato plants will emerge from the soil faster than unsprouted plantings. Don't plant sprouted potatoes too deeply or you will delay their emergence.

Straw Potatoes
Market gardeners looking for perfectly-shaped potato tubers, and gardeners looking to submit prize-winning large potatoes at county fair competitions, often use a method called straw potato growing. Plant by placing seed potatoes at the surface of loosened, cultivated soil, then covering with 6 inches of loose straw. The potato plants will emerge through the straw, usually in just 2 to 3 weeks, because they do not have several inches of soil to grow through. Add more straw around the plants as they grow and as the earlier straw layers compact. Harvest at the end of the season by pulling back the straw, which eliminates the risk of slicing tubers when digging them out with a shovel.
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Article
Miss Chen
04-16
Miss Chen
玫瑰和月季都是蔷薇科植物,花型、花色相似度很高。近日,许多网友问到月季和玫瑰的区别。如果小编告诉你,其实市场上卖的玫瑰基本上都是月季,会不会感到很失望?但这确实是一个残酷的事实,并且早有专家学者对此下过结论:2月14日那天中国花店里卖的玫瑰确实都是月季。为什么会这样呢?月季和玫瑰的区别到底在哪?
玫瑰和月季属于同科不同属的植物,即都属于蔷薇科,其英文名称统称为“Rose”。由于玫瑰的观赏价值远不如月季高,比如月季的品种有几百种,颜色也丰富多彩,有红、紫、黑、蓝等等,而玫瑰的品种不多,颜色也比较单纯。因此,现在种植玫瑰主要用于食用、制作昂贵的玫瑰精油及药用。而市场上出售的所谓玫瑰花其实都是月季花,或者是月季与蔷薇嫁接出的品种,只不过由于品种不同,这些花跟常见的月季花外型有明显的区别。下面我们就来看看月季和玫瑰的六大区别: 1、花朵的区别 (1)月季的花朵也较玫瑰要大一些,并且颜色多样,一般为单花顶生,也有数朵簇生的,一般为1-3朵,花径约5厘米以上,花柄长; (2)玫瑰花朵较小,一般为粉红色。单生或1-3朵簇生,花柄短,花茎与蔷薇花大致相同。 2、果实的区别 月季与蔷薇的果实为圆球体,玫瑰是扁圆形的果实。  
3、叶子的区别   (1)月季的叶由3-5枚小叶组成羽状复叶,小叶阔卵形或卵状长圆形,先端有尖,边缘有锯齿,长2.5-6厘米,两面都无毛,表面绿色,平展,光滑,无皱缩,有光泽; (2)玫瑰由7-9枚小叶组成羽状复叶,小叶椭圆形或长椭圆形状倒卵形,先端急尖或圆钝,边缘有钝锯齿,叶长2-5厘米,表面绿色,无毛,无光泽,叶脉凹陷而皱缩,背面稍有白粉及柔毛。  4、花期的区别  月季也叫月月红、月季花、长春花,月季花季季都会开花,开花不败;玫瑰一般只在夏季开一次花。   4、刺的区别 月季花茎上的刺比较大,每节大致有三四个,而玫瑰的花茎上的硬刺密密麻麻。 5、香味的区别 所谓“送人玫瑰,手留余香”,此话说得一点都不假,玫瑰的香味要比月季浓郁得多。种植的玫瑰一般是用来提炼香精等,而我们在街上看到卖的,几乎都是月季。 玫瑰和月季的问题,其实说到底是一个翻译的问题。玫瑰和月季在英文里通俗的叫法都是rose,早期(应该是民国时期)的文学翻译,把中国传统品种的月季还叫月季,而把西方的现代月季翻译成一个本有所属的名字玫瑰。但从园艺的角度上看,现代月季就是现代月季,是与古老月季、传统月季相对的,并非玫瑰,玫瑰无论是在古代还是现代都是一个与月季不同的品种。但是玫瑰这两个字比月季好听,那些文盲记者、花商,还有些文人在宣传、写作的时候都爱用玫瑰而不爱用月季,混乱从此开始。
玫瑰和月季都是蔷薇科植物,花型、花色相似度很高。近日,许多网友问到月季和玫瑰的区别。如果小编告诉你,其实市场上卖的玫瑰基本上都是月季,会不会感到很失望?但这确实是一个残酷的事实,并且早有专家学者对此下过结论:2月14日那天中国花店里卖的玫瑰确实都是月季。为什么会这样呢?月季和玫瑰的区别到底在哪?
  玫瑰和月季属于同科不同属的植物,即都属于蔷薇科,其英文名称统称为“Rose”。由于玫瑰的观赏价值远不如月季高,比如月季的品种有几百种,颜色也丰富多彩,有红、紫、黑、蓝等等,而玫瑰的品种不多,颜色也比较单纯。因此,现在种植玫瑰主要用于食用、制作昂贵的玫瑰精油及药用。而市场上出售的所谓玫瑰花其实都是月季花,或者是月季与蔷薇嫁接出的品种,只不过由于品种不同,这些花跟常见的月季花外型有明显的区别。下面我们就来看看月季和玫瑰的六大区别:

1、花朵的区别

(1)月季的花朵也较玫瑰要大一些,并且颜色多样,一般为单花顶生,也有数朵簇生的,一般为1-3朵,花径约5厘米以上,花柄长;

(2)玫瑰花朵较小,一般为粉红色。单生或1-3朵簇生,花柄短,花茎与蔷薇花大致相同。

2、果实的区别

月季与蔷薇的果实为圆球体,玫瑰是扁圆形的果实。  
  3、叶子的区别  

(1)月季的叶由3-5枚小叶组成羽状复叶,小叶阔卵形或卵状长圆形,先端有尖,边缘有锯齿,长2.5-6厘米,两面都无毛,表面绿色,平展,光滑,无皱缩,有光泽;

(2)玫瑰由7-9枚小叶组成羽状复叶,小叶椭圆形或长椭圆形状倒卵形,先端急尖或圆钝,边缘有钝锯齿,叶长2-5厘米,表面绿色,无毛,无光泽,叶脉凹陷而皱缩,背面稍有白粉及柔毛。 

4、花期的区别  月季也叫月月红、月季花、长春花,月季花季季都会开花,开花不败;玫瑰一般只在夏季开一次花。  

4、刺的区别

月季花茎上的刺比较大,每节大致有三四个,而玫瑰的花茎上的硬刺密密麻麻。

5、香味的区别

所谓“送人玫瑰,手留余香”,此话说得一点都不假,玫瑰的香味要比月季浓郁得多。种植的玫瑰一般是用来提炼香精等,而我们在街上看到卖的,几乎都是月季。

玫瑰和月季的问题,其实说到底是一个翻译的问题。玫瑰和月季在英文里通俗的叫法都是rose,早期(应该是民国时期)的文学翻译,把中国传统品种的月季还叫月季,而把西方的现代月季翻译成一个本有所属的名字玫瑰。但从园艺的角度上看,现代月季就是现代月季,是与古老月季、传统月季相对的,并非玫瑰,玫瑰无论是在古代还是现代都是一个与月季不同的品种。但是玫瑰这两个字比月季好听,那些文盲记者、花商,还有些文人在宣传、写作的时候都爱用玫瑰而不爱用月季,混乱从此开始。
玫瑰和月季都是蔷薇科植物,花型、花色相似度很高。近日,许多网友问到月季和玫瑰的区别。如果小编告诉你,其实市场上卖的玫瑰基本上都是月季,会不会感到很失望?但这确实是一个残酷的事实,并且早有专家学者对此下过结论:2月14日那天中国花店里卖的玫瑰确实都是月季。为什么会这样呢?月季和玫瑰的区别到底在哪?
  玫瑰和月季属于同科不同属的植物,即都属于蔷薇科,其英文名称统称为“Rose”。由于玫瑰的观赏价值远不如月季高,比如月季的品种有几百种,颜色也丰富多彩,有红、紫、黑、蓝等等,而玫瑰的品种不多,颜色也比较单纯。因此,现在种植玫瑰主要用于食用、制作昂贵的玫瑰精油及药用。而市场上出售的所谓玫瑰花其实都是月季花,或者是月季与蔷薇嫁接出的品种,只不过由于品种不同,这些花跟常见的月季花外型有明显的区别。下面我们就来看看月季和玫瑰的六大区别:

1、花朵的区别

(1)月季的花朵也较玫瑰要大一些,并且颜色多样,一般为单花顶生,也有数朵簇生的,一般为1-3朵,花径约5厘米以上,花柄长;

(2)玫瑰花朵较小,一般为粉红色。单生或1-3朵簇生,花柄短,花茎与蔷薇花大致相同。

2、果实的区别

月季与蔷薇的果实为圆球体,玫瑰是扁圆形的果实。  
  3、叶子的区别  

(1)月季的叶由3-5枚小叶组成羽状复叶,小叶阔卵形或卵状长圆形,先端有尖,边缘有锯齿,长2.5-6厘米,两面都无毛,表面绿色,平展,光滑,无皱缩,有光泽;

(2)玫瑰由7-9枚小叶组成羽状复叶,小叶椭圆形或长椭圆形状倒卵形,先端急尖或圆钝,边缘有钝锯齿,叶长2-5厘米,表面绿色,无毛,无光泽,叶脉凹陷而皱缩,背面稍有白粉及柔毛。 

4、花期的区别  月季也叫月月红、月季花、长春花,月季花季季都会开花,开花不败;玫瑰一般只在夏季开一次花。  

4、刺的区别

月季花茎上的刺比较大,每节大致有三四个,而玫瑰的花茎上的硬刺密密麻麻。

5、香味的区别

所谓“送人玫瑰,手留余香”,此话说得一点都不假,玫瑰的香味要比月季浓郁得多。种植的玫瑰一般是用来提炼香精等,而我们在街上看到卖的,几乎都是月季。

玫瑰和月季的问题,其实说到底是一个翻译的问题。玫瑰和月季在英文里通俗的叫法都是rose,早期(应该是民国时期)的文学翻译,把中国传统品种的月季还叫月季,而把西方的现代月季翻译成一个本有所属的名字玫瑰。但从园艺的角度上看,现代月季就是现代月季,是与古老月季、传统月季相对的,并非玫瑰,玫瑰无论是在古代还是现代都是一个与月季不同的品种。但是玫瑰这两个字比月季好听,那些文盲记者、花商,还有些文人在宣传、写作的时候都爱用玫瑰而不爱用月季,混乱从此开始。
玫瑰和月季都是蔷薇科植物,花型、花色相似度很高。近日,许多网友问到月季和玫瑰的区别。如果小编告诉你,其实市场上卖的玫瑰基本上都是月季,会不会感到很失望?但这确实是一个残酷的事实,并且早有专家学者对此下过结论:2月14日那天中国花店里卖的玫瑰确实都是月季。为什么会这样呢?月季和玫瑰的区别到底在哪?
  玫瑰和月季属于同科不同属的植物,即都属于蔷薇科,其英文名称统称为“Rose”。由于玫瑰的观赏价值远不如月季高,比如月季的品种有几百种,颜色也丰富多彩,有红、紫、黑、蓝等等,而玫瑰的品种不多,颜色也比较单纯。因此,现在种植玫瑰主要用于食用、制作昂贵的玫瑰精油及药用。而市场上出售的所谓玫瑰花其实都是月季花,或者是月季与蔷薇嫁接出的品种,只不过由于品种不同,这些花跟常见的月季花外型有明显的区别。下面我们就来看看月季和玫瑰的六大区别:

1、花朵的区别

(1)月季的花朵也较玫瑰要大一些,并且颜色多样,一般为单花顶生,也有数朵簇生的,一般为1-3朵,花径约5厘米以上,花柄长;

(2)玫瑰花朵较小,一般为粉红色。单生或1-3朵簇生,花柄短,花茎与蔷薇花大致相同。

2、果实的区别

月季与蔷薇的果实为圆球体,玫瑰是扁圆形的果实。  
  3、叶子的区别  

(1)月季的叶由3-5枚小叶组成羽状复叶,小叶阔卵形或卵状长圆形,先端有尖,边缘有锯齿,长2.5-6厘米,两面都无毛,表面绿色,平展,光滑,无皱缩,有光泽;

(2)玫瑰由7-9枚小叶组成羽状复叶,小叶椭圆形或长椭圆形状倒卵形,先端急尖或圆钝,边缘有钝锯齿,叶长2-5厘米,表面绿色,无毛,无光泽,叶脉凹陷而皱缩,背面稍有白粉及柔毛。 

4、花期的区别  月季也叫月月红、月季花、长春花,月季花季季都会开花,开花不败;玫瑰一般只在夏季开一次花。  

4、刺的区别

月季花茎上的刺比较大,每节大致有三四个,而玫瑰的花茎上的硬刺密密麻麻。

5、香味的区别

所谓“送人玫瑰,手留余香”,此话说得一点都不假,玫瑰的香味要比月季浓郁得多。种植的玫瑰一般是用来提炼香精等,而我们在街上看到卖的,几乎都是月季。

玫瑰和月季的问题,其实说到底是一个翻译的问题。玫瑰和月季在英文里通俗的叫法都是rose,早期(应该是民国时期)的文学翻译,把中国传统品种的月季还叫月季,而把西方的现代月季翻译成一个本有所属的名字玫瑰。但从园艺的角度上看,现代月季就是现代月季,是与古老月季、传统月季相对的,并非玫瑰,玫瑰无论是在古代还是现代都是一个与月季不同的品种。但是玫瑰这两个字比月季好听,那些文盲记者、花商,还有些文人在宣传、写作的时候都爱用玫瑰而不爱用月季,混乱从此开始。
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Miss Chen
04-16
Miss Chen
八角金盘是优良的观叶植物。八角金盘四季常青,叶片硕大。叶形优美,浓绿光亮,是深受欢迎的室内观叶植物。适应室内弱光环境,为宾馆、饭店、写字楼和家庭美化常用的植物材料。或作室内花坛的衬底。叶片又是插花的良好配材。适宜配植于庭院、门旁、窗边、墙隅及建筑物背阴处,也可点缀在溪流滴水之旁,还可成片群植于草坪边缘及林地。另外还可小盆栽供室内观赏。对二氧化硫抗性较强,适于厂矿区、街坊种植。下面我们来看看八角金盘的养殖方法:
八角金盘的基本信息: 八角金盘,顾名思义指的是其掌状的叶片,裂叶约8片,看似有8个角而名,也叫八金盘、八手、手树、手树、金刚纂等。八角金盘叶丛四季油光青翠,叶片象一只只绿色的手掌。其性耐荫,在园林中常种植于假山边上或大树旁边,还能作为观叶植物用于室内,厅堂及会场陈设。 八角金盘的养殖方法: 1、土壤:八角金盘种植以排水良好而肥沃的微酸性土壤为宜,中性土壤亦能适应。 2、浇水:八角金盘在新叶生长期,浇水要适当多些,保持土壤湿润;以后浇水要掌握间干间湿。气候干燥时,还应向植株及周围喷水增湿。 3、阳光:八角金盘为强阴性树种,可常年放置在室内具有明亮散射阳光的地方培养。 4、温度:八角金盘最适合的生长气温为15-20℃,不可低于5℃,10℃以上能够正常生长,气温也不能太高,气温超过30℃,叶片容易变黄,生长势下降、常罹病害。
5、施肥:八角金盘在生长旺季需要每月施1-2次稀薄液肥或复合花肥。 八角金盘是优良的观叶植物,可小盆栽供室内观赏,而且对空气净化也有一定的作用,八角金盘的养殖方法就介绍到这里,希望对大家有所帮助。
八角金盘是优良的观叶植物。八角金盘四季常青,叶片硕大。叶形优美,浓绿光亮,是深受欢迎的室内观叶植物。适应室内弱光环境,为宾馆、饭店、写字楼和家庭美化常用的植物材料。或作室内花坛的衬底。叶片又是插花的良好配材。适宜配植于庭院、门旁、窗边、墙隅及建筑物背阴处,也可点缀在溪流滴水之旁,还可成片群植于草坪边缘及林地。另外还可小盆栽供室内观赏。对二氧化硫抗性较强,适于厂矿区、街坊种植。下面我们来看看八角金盘的养殖方法:
  八角金盘的基本信息:

八角金盘,顾名思义指的是其掌状的叶片,裂叶约8片,看似有8个角而名,也叫八金盘、八手、手树、手树、金刚纂等。八角金盘叶丛四季油光青翠,叶片象一只只绿色的手掌。其性耐荫,在园林中常种植于假山边上或大树旁边,还能作为观叶植物用于室内,厅堂及会场陈设。

八角金盘的养殖方法:

1、土壤:八角金盘种植以排水良好而肥沃的微酸性土壤为宜,中性土壤亦能适应。

2、浇水:八角金盘在新叶生长期,浇水要适当多些,保持土壤湿润;以后浇水要掌握间干间湿。气候干燥时,还应向植株及周围喷水增湿。

3、阳光:八角金盘为强阴性树种,可常年放置在室内具有明亮散射阳光的地方培养。

4、温度:八角金盘最适合的生长气温为15-20℃,不可低于5℃,10℃以上能够正常生长,气温也不能太高,气温超过30℃,叶片容易变黄,生长势下降、常罹病害。
  5、施肥:八角金盘在生长旺季需要每月施1-2次稀薄液肥或复合花肥。

八角金盘是优良的观叶植物,可小盆栽供室内观赏,而且对空气净化也有一定的作用,八角金盘的养殖方法就介绍到这里,希望对大家有所帮助。
八角金盘是优良的观叶植物。八角金盘四季常青,叶片硕大。叶形优美,浓绿光亮,是深受欢迎的室内观叶植物。适应室内弱光环境,为宾馆、饭店、写字楼和家庭美化常用的植物材料。或作室内花坛的衬底。叶片又是插花的良好配材。适宜配植于庭院、门旁、窗边、墙隅及建筑物背阴处,也可点缀在溪流滴水之旁,还可成片群植于草坪边缘及林地。另外还可小盆栽供室内观赏。对二氧化硫抗性较强,适于厂矿区、街坊种植。下面我们来看看八角金盘的养殖方法:
  八角金盘的基本信息:

八角金盘,顾名思义指的是其掌状的叶片,裂叶约8片,看似有8个角而名,也叫八金盘、八手、手树、手树、金刚纂等。八角金盘叶丛四季油光青翠,叶片象一只只绿色的手掌。其性耐荫,在园林中常种植于假山边上或大树旁边,还能作为观叶植物用于室内,厅堂及会场陈设。

八角金盘的养殖方法:

1、土壤:八角金盘种植以排水良好而肥沃的微酸性土壤为宜,中性土壤亦能适应。

2、浇水:八角金盘在新叶生长期,浇水要适当多些,保持土壤湿润;以后浇水要掌握间干间湿。气候干燥时,还应向植株及周围喷水增湿。

3、阳光:八角金盘为强阴性树种,可常年放置在室内具有明亮散射阳光的地方培养。

4、温度:八角金盘最适合的生长气温为15-20℃,不可低于5℃,10℃以上能够正常生长,气温也不能太高,气温超过30℃,叶片容易变黄,生长势下降、常罹病害。
  5、施肥:八角金盘在生长旺季需要每月施1-2次稀薄液肥或复合花肥。

八角金盘是优良的观叶植物,可小盆栽供室内观赏,而且对空气净化也有一定的作用,八角金盘的养殖方法就介绍到这里,希望对大家有所帮助。
八角金盘是优良的观叶植物。八角金盘四季常青,叶片硕大。叶形优美,浓绿光亮,是深受欢迎的室内观叶植物。适应室内弱光环境,为宾馆、饭店、写字楼和家庭美化常用的植物材料。或作室内花坛的衬底。叶片又是插花的良好配材。适宜配植于庭院、门旁、窗边、墙隅及建筑物背阴处,也可点缀在溪流滴水之旁,还可成片群植于草坪边缘及林地。另外还可小盆栽供室内观赏。对二氧化硫抗性较强,适于厂矿区、街坊种植。下面我们来看看八角金盘的养殖方法:
  八角金盘的基本信息:

八角金盘,顾名思义指的是其掌状的叶片,裂叶约8片,看似有8个角而名,也叫八金盘、八手、手树、手树、金刚纂等。八角金盘叶丛四季油光青翠,叶片象一只只绿色的手掌。其性耐荫,在园林中常种植于假山边上或大树旁边,还能作为观叶植物用于室内,厅堂及会场陈设。

八角金盘的养殖方法:

1、土壤:八角金盘种植以排水良好而肥沃的微酸性土壤为宜,中性土壤亦能适应。

2、浇水:八角金盘在新叶生长期,浇水要适当多些,保持土壤湿润;以后浇水要掌握间干间湿。气候干燥时,还应向植株及周围喷水增湿。

3、阳光:八角金盘为强阴性树种,可常年放置在室内具有明亮散射阳光的地方培养。

4、温度:八角金盘最适合的生长气温为15-20℃,不可低于5℃,10℃以上能够正常生长,气温也不能太高,气温超过30℃,叶片容易变黄,生长势下降、常罹病害。
  5、施肥:八角金盘在生长旺季需要每月施1-2次稀薄液肥或复合花肥。

八角金盘是优良的观叶植物,可小盆栽供室内观赏,而且对空气净化也有一定的作用,八角金盘的养殖方法就介绍到这里,希望对大家有所帮助。
0
0
Article
Miss Chen
04-16
Miss Chen
玻璃翠为人们所喜爱的另一重要原因是它有染指甲的功效。用凤仙花染指甲风俗由来已久。宋代周密所撰《葵辛杂识续集》中载有以凤仙花染指甲之法。将带色的凤仙花花瓣捣烂,加入适量食盐或明矾湿均,蘸取适量涂于指甲上,用布片或植物叶片包好,经一段时间后就染好了。染好的指甲,用凤仙花染指甲色若胭脂,洗涤不去,可经数月。所以凤仙花又名指甲花。下面我们看看玻璃翠的养殖方法:
玻璃翠的基本信息: 玻璃翠,又名玻璃海棠,因其花、叶、茎都呈肉质,酷似玻璃,故得名。它平时枝叶青翠,花色妖艳浓郁,如同盛妆美人。如栽培得当,可四季开花,是一种良好的室内小型盆栽观赏花卉。玻璃翠是秋海棠科秋海棠属多年生宿根花卉。盆栽观赏花卉,亦作花坛用花。温暖地区或温暖季节可布置于庭院或花坛。 玻璃翠的养殖方法: 1、土壤:培养土可选用腐叶土、园土和粗沙以1:1:1的比例混合,并施入少量豆饼为基肥。 2、湿度:玻璃翠喜空气湿润,最适空气相对湿度为40~60%,若空气干燥,否则会使叶片失去翠绿的光泽,甚至发生叶片不舒展,萎缩卷曲,边缘干枯的现象。因此夏季除了适当遮阳免遭强光直射外,每天数次向叶面喷水和向盆花四周地面洒水,可以增加空气湿度,降低温度,保持叶片翠绿。 3、光照:夏季要适当遮阴,避免强光直晒,冬季移入室内,放置窗台阳光充足处养护,在整个生长发育过程中,每7天左右最好转动花盆1次,使植株各部分受光均匀、株型美观。
4、温度:玻璃翠性喜温暖环境,温度以18℃至25℃最好,越冬不能低于10℃,保持在13℃以上才能开花不断。 5、施肥:生长期每隔10天施一次追肥;以腐熟饼肥水为宜,肥液浓度为0.2%;开花后15天施一次。肥水不足时茎叶薄黄而影响开花;肥水过足或过度荫蔽会使植株茎叶徒长,容易倒伏,应及时停止施肥,并摘除枝顶,促使下部分枝。 6、修剪:玻璃翠幼苗经2~3次摘心,促其分枝,使株形更丰满、优美。 玻璃翠是很多人布置家居选用的一种绿色盆栽植物,青翠的枝叶布置在居室里面让整个空间都充满了生机与活力,玻璃翠的养殖方法就介绍到这里希望对大家有所帮助。
玻璃翠为人们所喜爱的另一重要原因是它有染指甲的功效。用凤仙花染指甲风俗由来已久。宋代周密所撰《葵辛杂识续集》中载有以凤仙花染指甲之法。将带色的凤仙花花瓣捣烂,加入适量食盐或明矾湿均,蘸取适量涂于指甲上,用布片或植物叶片包好,经一段时间后就染好了。染好的指甲,用凤仙花染指甲色若胭脂,洗涤不去,可经数月。所以凤仙花又名指甲花。下面我们看看玻璃翠的养殖方法:
  玻璃翠的基本信息:

玻璃翠,又名玻璃海棠,因其花、叶、茎都呈肉质,酷似玻璃,故得名。它平时枝叶青翠,花色妖艳浓郁,如同盛妆美人。如栽培得当,可四季开花,是一种良好的室内小型盆栽观赏花卉。玻璃翠是秋海棠科秋海棠属多年生宿根花卉。盆栽观赏花卉,亦作花坛用花。温暖地区或温暖季节可布置于庭院或花坛。

玻璃翠的养殖方法:

1、土壤:培养土可选用腐叶土、园土和粗沙以1:1:1的比例混合,并施入少量豆饼为基肥。

2、湿度:玻璃翠喜空气湿润,最适空气相对湿度为40~60%,若空气干燥,否则会使叶片失去翠绿的光泽,甚至发生叶片不舒展,萎缩卷曲,边缘干枯的现象。因此夏季除了适当遮阳免遭强光直射外,每天数次向叶面喷水和向盆花四周地面洒水,可以增加空气湿度,降低温度,保持叶片翠绿。

3、光照:夏季要适当遮阴,避免强光直晒,冬季移入室内,放置窗台阳光充足处养护,在整个生长发育过程中,每7天左右最好转动花盆1次,使植株各部分受光均匀、株型美观。
  4、温度:玻璃翠性喜温暖环境,温度以18℃至25℃最好,越冬不能低于10℃,保持在13℃以上才能开花不断。

5、施肥:生长期每隔10天施一次追肥;以腐熟饼肥水为宜,肥液浓度为0.2%;开花后15天施一次。肥水不足时茎叶薄黄而影响开花;肥水过足或过度荫蔽会使植株茎叶徒长,容易倒伏,应及时停止施肥,并摘除枝顶,促使下部分枝。

6、修剪:玻璃翠幼苗经2~3次摘心,促其分枝,使株形更丰满、优美。

玻璃翠是很多人布置家居选用的一种绿色盆栽植物,青翠的枝叶布置在居室里面让整个空间都充满了生机与活力,玻璃翠的养殖方法就介绍到这里希望对大家有所帮助。
玻璃翠为人们所喜爱的另一重要原因是它有染指甲的功效。用凤仙花染指甲风俗由来已久。宋代周密所撰《葵辛杂识续集》中载有以凤仙花染指甲之法。将带色的凤仙花花瓣捣烂,加入适量食盐或明矾湿均,蘸取适量涂于指甲上,用布片或植物叶片包好,经一段时间后就染好了。染好的指甲,用凤仙花染指甲色若胭脂,洗涤不去,可经数月。所以凤仙花又名指甲花。下面我们看看玻璃翠的养殖方法:
  玻璃翠的基本信息:

玻璃翠,又名玻璃海棠,因其花、叶、茎都呈肉质,酷似玻璃,故得名。它平时枝叶青翠,花色妖艳浓郁,如同盛妆美人。如栽培得当,可四季开花,是一种良好的室内小型盆栽观赏花卉。玻璃翠是秋海棠科秋海棠属多年生宿根花卉。盆栽观赏花卉,亦作花坛用花。温暖地区或温暖季节可布置于庭院或花坛。

玻璃翠的养殖方法:

1、土壤:培养土可选用腐叶土、园土和粗沙以1:1:1的比例混合,并施入少量豆饼为基肥。

2、湿度:玻璃翠喜空气湿润,最适空气相对湿度为40~60%,若空气干燥,否则会使叶片失去翠绿的光泽,甚至发生叶片不舒展,萎缩卷曲,边缘干枯的现象。因此夏季除了适当遮阳免遭强光直射外,每天数次向叶面喷水和向盆花四周地面洒水,可以增加空气湿度,降低温度,保持叶片翠绿。

3、光照:夏季要适当遮阴,避免强光直晒,冬季移入室内,放置窗台阳光充足处养护,在整个生长发育过程中,每7天左右最好转动花盆1次,使植株各部分受光均匀、株型美观。
  4、温度:玻璃翠性喜温暖环境,温度以18℃至25℃最好,越冬不能低于10℃,保持在13℃以上才能开花不断。

5、施肥:生长期每隔10天施一次追肥;以腐熟饼肥水为宜,肥液浓度为0.2%;开花后15天施一次。肥水不足时茎叶薄黄而影响开花;肥水过足或过度荫蔽会使植株茎叶徒长,容易倒伏,应及时停止施肥,并摘除枝顶,促使下部分枝。

6、修剪:玻璃翠幼苗经2~3次摘心,促其分枝,使株形更丰满、优美。

玻璃翠是很多人布置家居选用的一种绿色盆栽植物,青翠的枝叶布置在居室里面让整个空间都充满了生机与活力,玻璃翠的养殖方法就介绍到这里希望对大家有所帮助。
玻璃翠为人们所喜爱的另一重要原因是它有染指甲的功效。用凤仙花染指甲风俗由来已久。宋代周密所撰《葵辛杂识续集》中载有以凤仙花染指甲之法。将带色的凤仙花花瓣捣烂,加入适量食盐或明矾湿均,蘸取适量涂于指甲上,用布片或植物叶片包好,经一段时间后就染好了。染好的指甲,用凤仙花染指甲色若胭脂,洗涤不去,可经数月。所以凤仙花又名指甲花。下面我们看看玻璃翠的养殖方法:
  玻璃翠的基本信息:

玻璃翠,又名玻璃海棠,因其花、叶、茎都呈肉质,酷似玻璃,故得名。它平时枝叶青翠,花色妖艳浓郁,如同盛妆美人。如栽培得当,可四季开花,是一种良好的室内小型盆栽观赏花卉。玻璃翠是秋海棠科秋海棠属多年生宿根花卉。盆栽观赏花卉,亦作花坛用花。温暖地区或温暖季节可布置于庭院或花坛。

玻璃翠的养殖方法:

1、土壤:培养土可选用腐叶土、园土和粗沙以1:1:1的比例混合,并施入少量豆饼为基肥。

2、湿度:玻璃翠喜空气湿润,最适空气相对湿度为40~60%,若空气干燥,否则会使叶片失去翠绿的光泽,甚至发生叶片不舒展,萎缩卷曲,边缘干枯的现象。因此夏季除了适当遮阳免遭强光直射外,每天数次向叶面喷水和向盆花四周地面洒水,可以增加空气湿度,降低温度,保持叶片翠绿。

3、光照:夏季要适当遮阴,避免强光直晒,冬季移入室内,放置窗台阳光充足处养护,在整个生长发育过程中,每7天左右最好转动花盆1次,使植株各部分受光均匀、株型美观。
  4、温度:玻璃翠性喜温暖环境,温度以18℃至25℃最好,越冬不能低于10℃,保持在13℃以上才能开花不断。

5、施肥:生长期每隔10天施一次追肥;以腐熟饼肥水为宜,肥液浓度为0.2%;开花后15天施一次。肥水不足时茎叶薄黄而影响开花;肥水过足或过度荫蔽会使植株茎叶徒长,容易倒伏,应及时停止施肥,并摘除枝顶,促使下部分枝。

6、修剪:玻璃翠幼苗经2~3次摘心,促其分枝,使株形更丰满、优美。

玻璃翠是很多人布置家居选用的一种绿色盆栽植物,青翠的枝叶布置在居室里面让整个空间都充满了生机与活力,玻璃翠的养殖方法就介绍到这里希望对大家有所帮助。
0
0
Article
Miss Chen
04-16
Miss Chen
白鹤芋可以盆栽,也可以在花台、庭园的荫蔽地点、石组和水池边缘丛植、列植,起绿化作用。白鹤芋花茎挺拔秀美,盆栽点缀客厅、书房,十分舒泰别致,显得高雅俊美。在南方,配置小庭园、池畔、墙角处,别具一格。另外白鹤芋的花也是极好的花篮和插花的装饰材料。
白鹤芋可以过滤室内废气,对付氨气,丙酮,苯和甲醛都有一定功效。用水根栽培的白鹤芋,可以透过蒸散作用调节室内的温度和湿度,能有效净化空气中的挥发性有机物,如:酒精、丙酮、三氯乙烯、苯、甲苯、一氧化氯、臭氧等。其中尤其是针对臭氧的净化率特别高,摆放在厨房瓦斯旁,可以净化空气,去除做饭时的味道、油烟以及挥发物质。 下面我们来看看白鹤芋的养殖方法: 白鹤芋的基本信息: 白鹤芋别名苞叶芋、白掌、和平芋等,属于天南星科,白鹤芋属,多年生草本,白鹤芋翠绿叶片,洁白佛焰苞,非常清新幽雅,是世界重要的观花。 白鹤芋为多年生草本,具短根茎,叶长椭圆状披针形,两端渐尖,叶脉明显,叶柄长,基部呈鞘状。花葶直立,高出叶丛,佛焰苞直立向上,稍卷,白色,肉穗花序圆柱状,白色。它还是可以过滤室内废气的能手,对付氨气,丙酮,苯和甲醛都有一定功效。20世纪初开始应用于盆栽观赏,到80年代在欧洲已十分流行,视白鹤芋为"清白之花",具有纯洁平静、祥和安泰之意。
白鹤芋的养殖方法: 1、土壤:白鹤芋的盆栽用土以腐叶土、泥炭土和粗沙的混合土,加少量过磷酸钙为宜。 2、阳光:白鹤芋怕强光暴晒,夏季需遮荫60%~70%,但长期光照不足,则不易开花。 3、温度:白鹤芋的生长适温为22~28℃,3~9月以24~30℃,9月至翌年3月为18~21℃,冬季温度不低于14℃。温度低于10℃,植株生长受阻,叶片易受冻害。 4、浇水:白鹤芋叶片较大,对湿度比较敏感。夏季高温和秋季干燥时,要多喷水,保证空气湿度在50%以上,有利于叶片生长。高温干燥时,叶片容易卷曲,叶片变小、枯萎脱落,花期缩短。 5、施肥:生长旺季每1~2周施一次稀薄的复合肥或腐熟饼肥水,这样既利于植株生长健壮,又利于不断开花。北方冬季温度低,应停止施肥。 6、虫害:常见细菌性叶斑病、褐斑病和炭疽病危害叶片,可用50%多菌灵可湿性粉剂500倍液喷洒。另有根腐病和茎腐病发生,除注意通风和减少湿度外,用75%百菌清可湿性粉剂800倍液防治。有时发生介壳虫和红蜘蛛危害,用50%马拉松乳油1500倍液喷杀防治。 白鹤芋在家庭客厅、书房、庭院等地方都是比较常见的装饰植物,白鹤芋清新洁白,显得别具一格,装点后的家居很别致,白鹤芋的养殖方法就介绍到这里,希望对大家有所帮助。
白鹤芋可以盆栽,也可以在花台、庭园的荫蔽地点、石组和水池边缘丛植、列植,起绿化作用。白鹤芋花茎挺拔秀美,盆栽点缀客厅、书房,十分舒泰别致,显得高雅俊美。在南方,配置小庭园、池畔、墙角处,别具一格。另外白鹤芋的花也是极好的花篮和插花的装饰材料。 
  白鹤芋可以过滤室内废气,对付氨气,丙酮,苯和甲醛都有一定功效。用水根栽培的白鹤芋,可以透过蒸散作用调节室内的温度和湿度,能有效净化空气中的挥发性有机物,如:酒精、丙酮、三氯乙烯、苯、甲苯、一氧化氯、臭氧等。其中尤其是针对臭氧的净化率特别高,摆放在厨房瓦斯旁,可以净化空气,去除做饭时的味道、油烟以及挥发物质。

下面我们来看看白鹤芋的养殖方法:

白鹤芋的基本信息:

白鹤芋别名苞叶芋、白掌、和平芋等,属于天南星科,白鹤芋属,多年生草本,白鹤芋翠绿叶片,洁白佛焰苞,非常清新幽雅,是世界重要的观花。

白鹤芋为多年生草本,具短根茎,叶长椭圆状披针形,两端渐尖,叶脉明显,叶柄长,基部呈鞘状。花葶直立,高出叶丛,佛焰苞直立向上,稍卷,白色,肉穗花序圆柱状,白色。它还是可以过滤室内废气的能手,对付氨气,丙酮,苯和甲醛都有一定功效。20世纪初开始应用于盆栽观赏,到80年代在欧洲已十分流行,视白鹤芋为
白鹤芋可以盆栽,也可以在花台、庭园的荫蔽地点、石组和水池边缘丛植、列植,起绿化作用。白鹤芋花茎挺拔秀美,盆栽点缀客厅、书房,十分舒泰别致,显得高雅俊美。在南方,配置小庭园、池畔、墙角处,别具一格。另外白鹤芋的花也是极好的花篮和插花的装饰材料。 
  白鹤芋可以过滤室内废气,对付氨气,丙酮,苯和甲醛都有一定功效。用水根栽培的白鹤芋,可以透过蒸散作用调节室内的温度和湿度,能有效净化空气中的挥发性有机物,如:酒精、丙酮、三氯乙烯、苯、甲苯、一氧化氯、臭氧等。其中尤其是针对臭氧的净化率特别高,摆放在厨房瓦斯旁,可以净化空气,去除做饭时的味道、油烟以及挥发物质。

下面我们来看看白鹤芋的养殖方法:

白鹤芋的基本信息:

白鹤芋别名苞叶芋、白掌、和平芋等,属于天南星科,白鹤芋属,多年生草本,白鹤芋翠绿叶片,洁白佛焰苞,非常清新幽雅,是世界重要的观花。

白鹤芋为多年生草本,具短根茎,叶长椭圆状披针形,两端渐尖,叶脉明显,叶柄长,基部呈鞘状。花葶直立,高出叶丛,佛焰苞直立向上,稍卷,白色,肉穗花序圆柱状,白色。它还是可以过滤室内废气的能手,对付氨气,丙酮,苯和甲醛都有一定功效。20世纪初开始应用于盆栽观赏,到80年代在欧洲已十分流行,视白鹤芋为
白鹤芋可以盆栽,也可以在花台、庭园的荫蔽地点、石组和水池边缘丛植、列植,起绿化作用。白鹤芋花茎挺拔秀美,盆栽点缀客厅、书房,十分舒泰别致,显得高雅俊美。在南方,配置小庭园、池畔、墙角处,别具一格。另外白鹤芋的花也是极好的花篮和插花的装饰材料。 
  白鹤芋可以过滤室内废气,对付氨气,丙酮,苯和甲醛都有一定功效。用水根栽培的白鹤芋,可以透过蒸散作用调节室内的温度和湿度,能有效净化空气中的挥发性有机物,如:酒精、丙酮、三氯乙烯、苯、甲苯、一氧化氯、臭氧等。其中尤其是针对臭氧的净化率特别高,摆放在厨房瓦斯旁,可以净化空气,去除做饭时的味道、油烟以及挥发物质。

下面我们来看看白鹤芋的养殖方法:

白鹤芋的基本信息:

白鹤芋别名苞叶芋、白掌、和平芋等,属于天南星科,白鹤芋属,多年生草本,白鹤芋翠绿叶片,洁白佛焰苞,非常清新幽雅,是世界重要的观花。

白鹤芋为多年生草本,具短根茎,叶长椭圆状披针形,两端渐尖,叶脉明显,叶柄长,基部呈鞘状。花葶直立,高出叶丛,佛焰苞直立向上,稍卷,白色,肉穗花序圆柱状,白色。它还是可以过滤室内废气的能手,对付氨气,丙酮,苯和甲醛都有一定功效。20世纪初开始应用于盆栽观赏,到80年代在欧洲已十分流行,视白鹤芋为
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Miss Chen
04-16
Miss Chen
凤尾竹风姿秀雅,是室内良好的观叶植物,很多人会搭配石头摆放在书房、客厅等地方,别有一番滋味,同时适于在庭院中墙隅、屋角、门旁配植,植株较小的凤尾竹可栽植于花台上,也可制作竹类盆景,同时也栽于寺庙庭园中,在南方地区也常作为低矮绿篱的配植材料广泛应用。下面我们来看看凤尾竹养殖方法要技有哪些:
凤尾竹的基本信息: 凤尾竹(拉丁学名:Bambusamultiplex)又名观音竹、米竹、筋头竹、蓬莱竹等,原产中国南部。喜温暖湿润和半阴环境,耐寒性稍差,不耐强光曝晒,怕渍水,宜肥沃、疏松和排水良好的壤土,冬季温度不低于0℃。凤尾竹株丛密集,竹干矮小,枝叶秀丽,常用于盆栽观赏,点缀小庭院和居室,也常用于制作盆景或作为低矮绿篱材料。 凤尾竹的养殖方法: 1、土壤:凤尾竹喜酸性、微酸性或中性土壤,家庭盆栽可选用腐叶土、园土、河沙各1/3混合配制的培养土,忌粘重、碱性土壤。 2、阳光:凤尾竹喜光,室内养护时春、夏、秋三季放朝南窗台附近通风处,冬季放阳光充足的地方,便能生长良好。若放室外培养时,春、秋季节可多接受些光照,夏季要注意遮阳,避免强光曝晒,否则枝叶易发黄,影响美观。
3、温度:凤尾竹为常绿丛生灌木。喜温暖湿润和半阴环境。耐寒性稍差,不耐强光曝晒,怕渍水,宜肥沃、疏松和排水良好的壤土.冬季温度不低于0度。 4、浇水:生长期间浇水要适量,保持盆土湿润即可。气候干燥和炎夏季节要经常用清水喷洗叶片,以利保持叶片碧绿。 5、施肥:凤尾竹在生长期间,每隔20天左右需施1次液肥。凤尾竹肥料以有机肥为主,液肥可用腐熟稀薄的豆饼水,或复合液肥。冬季应停止施肥。 6、修剪:凤尾竹在生长过程中老竿逐渐枯萎,应及时剪去,以保持优美的姿态。 凤尾竹在家居布置中幽雅别致,显得家居很有韵味,一般适合中式或田园风格的家居,如果家里是这些风格的不妨考虑一下。
凤尾竹风姿秀雅,是室内良好的观叶植物,很多人会搭配石头摆放在书房、客厅等地方,别有一番滋味,同时适于在庭院中墙隅、屋角、门旁配植,植株较小的凤尾竹可栽植于花台上,也可制作竹类盆景,同时也栽于寺庙庭园中,在南方地区也常作为低矮绿篱的配植材料广泛应用。下面我们来看看凤尾竹养殖方法要技有哪些:
  凤尾竹的基本信息:

凤尾竹(拉丁学名:Bambusamultiplex)又名观音竹、米竹、筋头竹、蓬莱竹等,原产中国南部。喜温暖湿润和半阴环境,耐寒性稍差,不耐强光曝晒,怕渍水,宜肥沃、疏松和排水良好的壤土,冬季温度不低于0℃。凤尾竹株丛密集,竹干矮小,枝叶秀丽,常用于盆栽观赏,点缀小庭院和居室,也常用于制作盆景或作为低矮绿篱材料。

凤尾竹的养殖方法:

1、土壤:凤尾竹喜酸性、微酸性或中性土壤,家庭盆栽可选用腐叶土、园土、河沙各1/3混合配制的培养土,忌粘重、碱性土壤。

2、阳光:凤尾竹喜光,室内养护时春、夏、秋三季放朝南窗台附近通风处,冬季放阳光充足的地方,便能生长良好。若放室外培养时,春、秋季节可多接受些光照,夏季要注意遮阳,避免强光曝晒,否则枝叶易发黄,影响美观。
  3、温度:凤尾竹为常绿丛生灌木。喜温暖湿润和半阴环境。耐寒性稍差,不耐强光曝晒,怕渍水,宜肥沃、疏松和排水良好的壤土.冬季温度不低于0度。

4、浇水:生长期间浇水要适量,保持盆土湿润即可。气候干燥和炎夏季节要经常用清水喷洗叶片,以利保持叶片碧绿。

5、施肥:凤尾竹在生长期间,每隔20天左右需施1次液肥。凤尾竹肥料以有机肥为主,液肥可用腐熟稀薄的豆饼水,或复合液肥。冬季应停止施肥。

6、修剪:凤尾竹在生长过程中老竿逐渐枯萎,应及时剪去,以保持优美的姿态。

凤尾竹在家居布置中幽雅别致,显得家居很有韵味,一般适合中式或田园风格的家居,如果家里是这些风格的不妨考虑一下。
凤尾竹风姿秀雅,是室内良好的观叶植物,很多人会搭配石头摆放在书房、客厅等地方,别有一番滋味,同时适于在庭院中墙隅、屋角、门旁配植,植株较小的凤尾竹可栽植于花台上,也可制作竹类盆景,同时也栽于寺庙庭园中,在南方地区也常作为低矮绿篱的配植材料广泛应用。下面我们来看看凤尾竹养殖方法要技有哪些:
  凤尾竹的基本信息:

凤尾竹(拉丁学名:Bambusamultiplex)又名观音竹、米竹、筋头竹、蓬莱竹等,原产中国南部。喜温暖湿润和半阴环境,耐寒性稍差,不耐强光曝晒,怕渍水,宜肥沃、疏松和排水良好的壤土,冬季温度不低于0℃。凤尾竹株丛密集,竹干矮小,枝叶秀丽,常用于盆栽观赏,点缀小庭院和居室,也常用于制作盆景或作为低矮绿篱材料。

凤尾竹的养殖方法:

1、土壤:凤尾竹喜酸性、微酸性或中性土壤,家庭盆栽可选用腐叶土、园土、河沙各1/3混合配制的培养土,忌粘重、碱性土壤。

2、阳光:凤尾竹喜光,室内养护时春、夏、秋三季放朝南窗台附近通风处,冬季放阳光充足的地方,便能生长良好。若放室外培养时,春、秋季节可多接受些光照,夏季要注意遮阳,避免强光曝晒,否则枝叶易发黄,影响美观。
  3、温度:凤尾竹为常绿丛生灌木。喜温暖湿润和半阴环境。耐寒性稍差,不耐强光曝晒,怕渍水,宜肥沃、疏松和排水良好的壤土.冬季温度不低于0度。

4、浇水:生长期间浇水要适量,保持盆土湿润即可。气候干燥和炎夏季节要经常用清水喷洗叶片,以利保持叶片碧绿。

5、施肥:凤尾竹在生长期间,每隔20天左右需施1次液肥。凤尾竹肥料以有机肥为主,液肥可用腐熟稀薄的豆饼水,或复合液肥。冬季应停止施肥。

6、修剪:凤尾竹在生长过程中老竿逐渐枯萎,应及时剪去,以保持优美的姿态。

凤尾竹在家居布置中幽雅别致,显得家居很有韵味,一般适合中式或田园风格的家居,如果家里是这些风格的不妨考虑一下。
凤尾竹风姿秀雅,是室内良好的观叶植物,很多人会搭配石头摆放在书房、客厅等地方,别有一番滋味,同时适于在庭院中墙隅、屋角、门旁配植,植株较小的凤尾竹可栽植于花台上,也可制作竹类盆景,同时也栽于寺庙庭园中,在南方地区也常作为低矮绿篱的配植材料广泛应用。下面我们来看看凤尾竹养殖方法要技有哪些:
  凤尾竹的基本信息:

凤尾竹(拉丁学名:Bambusamultiplex)又名观音竹、米竹、筋头竹、蓬莱竹等,原产中国南部。喜温暖湿润和半阴环境,耐寒性稍差,不耐强光曝晒,怕渍水,宜肥沃、疏松和排水良好的壤土,冬季温度不低于0℃。凤尾竹株丛密集,竹干矮小,枝叶秀丽,常用于盆栽观赏,点缀小庭院和居室,也常用于制作盆景或作为低矮绿篱材料。

凤尾竹的养殖方法:

1、土壤:凤尾竹喜酸性、微酸性或中性土壤,家庭盆栽可选用腐叶土、园土、河沙各1/3混合配制的培养土,忌粘重、碱性土壤。

2、阳光:凤尾竹喜光,室内养护时春、夏、秋三季放朝南窗台附近通风处,冬季放阳光充足的地方,便能生长良好。若放室外培养时,春、秋季节可多接受些光照,夏季要注意遮阳,避免强光曝晒,否则枝叶易发黄,影响美观。
  3、温度:凤尾竹为常绿丛生灌木。喜温暖湿润和半阴环境。耐寒性稍差,不耐强光曝晒,怕渍水,宜肥沃、疏松和排水良好的壤土.冬季温度不低于0度。

4、浇水:生长期间浇水要适量,保持盆土湿润即可。气候干燥和炎夏季节要经常用清水喷洗叶片,以利保持叶片碧绿。

5、施肥:凤尾竹在生长期间,每隔20天左右需施1次液肥。凤尾竹肥料以有机肥为主,液肥可用腐熟稀薄的豆饼水,或复合液肥。冬季应停止施肥。

6、修剪:凤尾竹在生长过程中老竿逐渐枯萎,应及时剪去,以保持优美的姿态。

凤尾竹在家居布置中幽雅别致,显得家居很有韵味,一般适合中式或田园风格的家居,如果家里是这些风格的不妨考虑一下。
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