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Miss Chen
10 hours ago
Miss Chen
病害危害 一串红灰霉病主要危害球根海棠、鬼针草、金盏菊、鸭嘴花、贴梗海棠、虎头兰、美人蕉、醉蝶花、文殊兰、珊瑚花、大丽花、令箭荷花、萱草、扶桑、唐菖蒲、朱顶红、菊花、一品红、茶花、迎春花、月季、樱花、杜鹃花、一串红、马蹄莲等多种花卉。
病害分布 分布于全国各地。 病害症状 主要侵害花、叶片等,初生水渍状小点,后引起叶片及花瓣坏死,腐烂,大量落花,连续阴雨后或天气漫漫、花丛湿气滞留,可见叶片腐烂,花上长出大量灰色霉状物,即病原菌的分生孢子梗和分生孢子。 病害病原 富克尔核盘菌(Sclerotinia fuckeliana (de bary)fuck),属子囊菌门真菌;无性态称灰葡萄孢(Botrytis cinerea pers.ex fr.),属半知菌类真菌。菌落初为灰白色,后为褐色,分生孢子梗散生或簇生于菌落内,浅褐色至褐色;分生孢子大小因环境条件的影响变化较大,广卵形较多,大小6—18X 5~12(um)。扫描电镜下孢子表面光滑。菌核基物表面生,但在Cze+2Dox培养基上菌核半埋生居多,大小2.5—15mm左右,圆形至长圆形,常集结成大型不规则形的菌核。性孢子阶段常见,丝精器白色,群体呈灰白色,性孢子球形,大小3~4um。 病害发生规律 北方病菌在病残体上越冬,翌春产生大量分生孢子,进行传播;南方病菌分生孢子借气流和雨水溅射传播进行初侵染和再侵染,由于田间寄主终年存在,侵染周而复始不断发生,无明显越冬或越夏期。该病属低温域病害,分生孢子耐干能力强,在低温高湿条件下易流行。病菌发育适温10_23℃,最高 30_32℃,最低40℃,适湿为持续90%以上的高湿条件。 该病属低温域病害,分生孢子耐干能力强,在低温高湿条件下易流行。病菌发育适温10_23℃,最高 30_32℃,最低40℃,适湿为持续90%以上的高湿条件。
病害防治方法 (1)精心养护,增强寄主抗病力。 (2)雨后及时排水,严防湿气滞留。 (3)药剂防治:可用50%氟吗啉.锰锌可湿粉(国光三治)400-600倍液 ,50%腐霉利可湿性粉剂(国光绿青)1000-1500倍,50%国光异菌脲可湿粉剂1000~1500倍液,或50%国光松尔(甲基托布津)可湿性粉剂500倍液喷雾7~10天一次,连续2~3次, 要注意交替使用药剂,以防产生抗药性。
病害危害

一串红灰霉病主要危害球根海棠、鬼针草、金盏菊、鸭嘴花、贴梗海棠、虎头兰、美人蕉、醉蝶花、文殊兰、珊瑚花、大丽花、令箭荷花、萱草、扶桑、唐菖蒲、朱顶红、菊花、一品红、茶花、迎春花、月季、樱花、杜鹃花、一串红、马蹄莲等多种花卉。
  病害分布

分布于全国各地。 

病害症状

主要侵害花、叶片等,初生水渍状小点,后引起叶片及花瓣坏死,腐烂,大量落花,连续阴雨后或天气漫漫、花丛湿气滞留,可见叶片腐烂,花上长出大量灰色霉状物,即病原菌的分生孢子梗和分生孢子。 

病害病原

富克尔核盘菌(Sclerotinia fuckeliana (de bary)fuck),属子囊菌门真菌;无性态称灰葡萄孢(Botrytis cinerea pers.ex fr.),属半知菌类真菌。菌落初为灰白色,后为褐色,分生孢子梗散生或簇生于菌落内,浅褐色至褐色;分生孢子大小因环境条件的影响变化较大,广卵形较多,大小6—18X 5~12(um)。扫描电镜下孢子表面光滑。菌核基物表面生,但在Cze+2Dox培养基上菌核半埋生居多,大小2.5—15mm左右,圆形至长圆形,常集结成大型不规则形的菌核。性孢子阶段常见,丝精器白色,群体呈灰白色,性孢子球形,大小3~4um。

病害发生规律

北方病菌在病残体上越冬,翌春产生大量分生孢子,进行传播;南方病菌分生孢子借气流和雨水溅射传播进行初侵染和再侵染,由于田间寄主终年存在,侵染周而复始不断发生,无明显越冬或越夏期。该病属低温域病害,分生孢子耐干能力强,在低温高湿条件下易流行。病菌发育适温10_23℃,最高 30_32℃,最低40℃,适湿为持续90%以上的高湿条件。 

该病属低温域病害,分生孢子耐干能力强,在低温高湿条件下易流行。病菌发育适温10_23℃,最高 30_32℃,最低40℃,适湿为持续90%以上的高湿条件。 
  病害防治方法

(1)精心养护,增强寄主抗病力。 

(2)雨后及时排水,严防湿气滞留。 

(3)药剂防治:可用50%氟吗啉.锰锌可湿粉(国光三治)400-600倍液 ,50%腐霉利可湿性粉剂(国光绿青)1000-1500倍,50%国光异菌脲可湿粉剂1000~1500倍液,或50%国光松尔(甲基托布津)可湿性粉剂500倍液喷雾7~10天一次,连续2~3次, 要注意交替使用药剂,以防产生抗药性。
病害危害

一串红灰霉病主要危害球根海棠、鬼针草、金盏菊、鸭嘴花、贴梗海棠、虎头兰、美人蕉、醉蝶花、文殊兰、珊瑚花、大丽花、令箭荷花、萱草、扶桑、唐菖蒲、朱顶红、菊花、一品红、茶花、迎春花、月季、樱花、杜鹃花、一串红、马蹄莲等多种花卉。
  病害分布

分布于全国各地。 

病害症状

主要侵害花、叶片等,初生水渍状小点,后引起叶片及花瓣坏死,腐烂,大量落花,连续阴雨后或天气漫漫、花丛湿气滞留,可见叶片腐烂,花上长出大量灰色霉状物,即病原菌的分生孢子梗和分生孢子。 

病害病原

富克尔核盘菌(Sclerotinia fuckeliana (de bary)fuck),属子囊菌门真菌;无性态称灰葡萄孢(Botrytis cinerea pers.ex fr.),属半知菌类真菌。菌落初为灰白色,后为褐色,分生孢子梗散生或簇生于菌落内,浅褐色至褐色;分生孢子大小因环境条件的影响变化较大,广卵形较多,大小6—18X 5~12(um)。扫描电镜下孢子表面光滑。菌核基物表面生,但在Cze+2Dox培养基上菌核半埋生居多,大小2.5—15mm左右,圆形至长圆形,常集结成大型不规则形的菌核。性孢子阶段常见,丝精器白色,群体呈灰白色,性孢子球形,大小3~4um。

病害发生规律

北方病菌在病残体上越冬,翌春产生大量分生孢子,进行传播;南方病菌分生孢子借气流和雨水溅射传播进行初侵染和再侵染,由于田间寄主终年存在,侵染周而复始不断发生,无明显越冬或越夏期。该病属低温域病害,分生孢子耐干能力强,在低温高湿条件下易流行。病菌发育适温10_23℃,最高 30_32℃,最低40℃,适湿为持续90%以上的高湿条件。 

该病属低温域病害,分生孢子耐干能力强,在低温高湿条件下易流行。病菌发育适温10_23℃,最高 30_32℃,最低40℃,适湿为持续90%以上的高湿条件。 
  病害防治方法

(1)精心养护,增强寄主抗病力。 

(2)雨后及时排水,严防湿气滞留。 

(3)药剂防治:可用50%氟吗啉.锰锌可湿粉(国光三治)400-600倍液 ,50%腐霉利可湿性粉剂(国光绿青)1000-1500倍,50%国光异菌脲可湿粉剂1000~1500倍液,或50%国光松尔(甲基托布津)可湿性粉剂500倍液喷雾7~10天一次,连续2~3次, 要注意交替使用药剂,以防产生抗药性。
病害危害

一串红灰霉病主要危害球根海棠、鬼针草、金盏菊、鸭嘴花、贴梗海棠、虎头兰、美人蕉、醉蝶花、文殊兰、珊瑚花、大丽花、令箭荷花、萱草、扶桑、唐菖蒲、朱顶红、菊花、一品红、茶花、迎春花、月季、樱花、杜鹃花、一串红、马蹄莲等多种花卉。
  病害分布

分布于全国各地。 

病害症状

主要侵害花、叶片等,初生水渍状小点,后引起叶片及花瓣坏死,腐烂,大量落花,连续阴雨后或天气漫漫、花丛湿气滞留,可见叶片腐烂,花上长出大量灰色霉状物,即病原菌的分生孢子梗和分生孢子。 

病害病原

富克尔核盘菌(Sclerotinia fuckeliana (de bary)fuck),属子囊菌门真菌;无性态称灰葡萄孢(Botrytis cinerea pers.ex fr.),属半知菌类真菌。菌落初为灰白色,后为褐色,分生孢子梗散生或簇生于菌落内,浅褐色至褐色;分生孢子大小因环境条件的影响变化较大,广卵形较多,大小6—18X 5~12(um)。扫描电镜下孢子表面光滑。菌核基物表面生,但在Cze+2Dox培养基上菌核半埋生居多,大小2.5—15mm左右,圆形至长圆形,常集结成大型不规则形的菌核。性孢子阶段常见,丝精器白色,群体呈灰白色,性孢子球形,大小3~4um。

病害发生规律

北方病菌在病残体上越冬,翌春产生大量分生孢子,进行传播;南方病菌分生孢子借气流和雨水溅射传播进行初侵染和再侵染,由于田间寄主终年存在,侵染周而复始不断发生,无明显越冬或越夏期。该病属低温域病害,分生孢子耐干能力强,在低温高湿条件下易流行。病菌发育适温10_23℃,最高 30_32℃,最低40℃,适湿为持续90%以上的高湿条件。 

该病属低温域病害,分生孢子耐干能力强,在低温高湿条件下易流行。病菌发育适温10_23℃,最高 30_32℃,最低40℃,适湿为持续90%以上的高湿条件。 
  病害防治方法

(1)精心养护,增强寄主抗病力。 

(2)雨后及时排水,严防湿气滞留。 

(3)药剂防治:可用50%氟吗啉.锰锌可湿粉(国光三治)400-600倍液 ,50%腐霉利可湿性粉剂(国光绿青)1000-1500倍,50%国光异菌脲可湿粉剂1000~1500倍液,或50%国光松尔(甲基托布津)可湿性粉剂500倍液喷雾7~10天一次,连续2~3次, 要注意交替使用药剂,以防产生抗药性。
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Miss Chen
10 hours ago
Miss Chen
病害危害 一串红疫霉病主要为害一串红。
病害分布 分布于全国各地。 病害症状 主要发生在茎、枝上,也为害叶片和叶柄。茎部染病,多从距地面1-2cm的茎节处或分杈处开始发病,病菌侵入后先出现暗绿色不规则水渍状病斑,且不断向上扩展致病部产生褐色无明显边缘的病斑,该病扩展迅速,很快扩展到茎秆中部或顶端,出现黑色斑块,严重时整株变黑,茎部皮层的输导功能遭到破坏,致病部以上茎叶变黄后干枯。叶片染病多始于叶缘和叶基部,形成不规则的近圆形水渍状暗绿色大斑,边缘不明显。叶柄染病叶片萎垂。湿度大时或连续的连阴雨后病部生出稀疏的白霉,即病菌菌丝和孢囊梗及孢子囊。 病害病原 属寄生疫霉(烟草疫霉),属卵菌,疫霉疫在CA培养基上菌落为棉絮状,气生菌丝茂盛。菌丝直径2-6um,具少量球形菌丝膨大体,大小10-21um;菌丝膨大体上有放射状菌丝。孢囊梗不分枝或呈不规则状分枝,直径2-3.5um,孢子囊球形或宽卵形,个别梨形,顶生,侧生或间生,大小变异大,一般33-61×23-47um,有明显乳突1-2个,个别3个不脱落。游动孢子从孔口直接释放出,也可以泡囊放出,大小9-14×7-12um,鞭毛长6-30um,休止孢子球形,大小8.5-12um,厚垣孢子球形,顶生或间生,大小21-49um,藏卵器球形,大小16-34um,雄器近球形或圆筒形,围生,大小8-16×9-16um,卵孢子球形,无色至浅黄色,大小14-28um,壁厚,满器或不满器。生长温度最低9-10度,最适24-28度,最高为36.5-37度。 病害发生规律 病菌随病残体中的卵孢子留在土壤中越冬,翌年卵孢子经雨水溅到寄主上,病菌即萌发长出芽管。芽管与一串红表面接触后产生附着器,从其底部生出侵入丝,穿透寄主侵入。后在病部产生孢子囊,萌发后产生游动孢子,借风雨传播进行再侵染。秋后在病组织中又形成卵孢子越冬。 该菌生长适温24-28度,适宜发病温度28度,相对湿度高于85%,有利于其孢子形成,相对温度高于95%,菌丝生长旺盛。在这个条件下侵入后经24小时即显症,经64个小时,即可再侵染。因此高温多雨、湿度大是该病流行的条件。北京7月上旬至8月中旬第一场大雨后,常出现中心病株,中心病株出现后旬降雨量达100mm,且有大暴雨,中心病株向外扩展很快,如再遇降雨量100mm以上或有1天特大暴雨该病可能大流行,赞成毁灭性为害。北京、上海、南京、昆明该病多在7、8月发生。
病害防治方法 1、选择平坦或高燥地块栽植或摆放,注意通风透光,高温多雨年份或季节要注意及时排水和倒盆。 2、选用抗病无退化品种。适时适量施肥,防止偏施、过施氮肥。 3、精心养护。要注意把湿度降下来,浇水时不要把泥土溅到植株上,有条件的相对湿度应控制在80以下,发现中心病株及时拔除。雨后及时排水防止湿所滞留。 4、必要时,进入7月雨季后据天气预报,在发病前开展预防性防治及时喷洒50%氟吗啉锰锌(国光三治)400-600倍液,国光绿杀400-600倍液, 可连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
病害危害

一串红疫霉病主要为害一串红。 
  病害分布

分布于全国各地。

病害症状

主要发生在茎、枝上,也为害叶片和叶柄。茎部染病,多从距地面1-2cm的茎节处或分杈处开始发病,病菌侵入后先出现暗绿色不规则水渍状病斑,且不断向上扩展致病部产生褐色无明显边缘的病斑,该病扩展迅速,很快扩展到茎秆中部或顶端,出现黑色斑块,严重时整株变黑,茎部皮层的输导功能遭到破坏,致病部以上茎叶变黄后干枯。叶片染病多始于叶缘和叶基部,形成不规则的近圆形水渍状暗绿色大斑,边缘不明显。叶柄染病叶片萎垂。湿度大时或连续的连阴雨后病部生出稀疏的白霉,即病菌菌丝和孢囊梗及孢子囊。 

病害病原

属寄生疫霉(烟草疫霉),属卵菌,疫霉疫在CA培养基上菌落为棉絮状,气生菌丝茂盛。菌丝直径2-6um,具少量球形菌丝膨大体,大小10-21um;菌丝膨大体上有放射状菌丝。孢囊梗不分枝或呈不规则状分枝,直径2-3.5um,孢子囊球形或宽卵形,个别梨形,顶生,侧生或间生,大小变异大,一般33-61×23-47um,有明显乳突1-2个,个别3个不脱落。游动孢子从孔口直接释放出,也可以泡囊放出,大小9-14×7-12um,鞭毛长6-30um,休止孢子球形,大小8.5-12um,厚垣孢子球形,顶生或间生,大小21-49um,藏卵器球形,大小16-34um,雄器近球形或圆筒形,围生,大小8-16×9-16um,卵孢子球形,无色至浅黄色,大小14-28um,壁厚,满器或不满器。生长温度最低9-10度,最适24-28度,最高为36.5-37度。 

病害发生规律

病菌随病残体中的卵孢子留在土壤中越冬,翌年卵孢子经雨水溅到寄主上,病菌即萌发长出芽管。芽管与一串红表面接触后产生附着器,从其底部生出侵入丝,穿透寄主侵入。后在病部产生孢子囊,萌发后产生游动孢子,借风雨传播进行再侵染。秋后在病组织中又形成卵孢子越冬。 

该菌生长适温24-28度,适宜发病温度28度,相对湿度高于85%,有利于其孢子形成,相对温度高于95%,菌丝生长旺盛。在这个条件下侵入后经24小时即显症,经64个小时,即可再侵染。因此高温多雨、湿度大是该病流行的条件。北京7月上旬至8月中旬第一场大雨后,常出现中心病株,中心病株出现后旬降雨量达100mm,且有大暴雨,中心病株向外扩展很快,如再遇降雨量100mm以上或有1天特大暴雨该病可能大流行,赞成毁灭性为害。北京、上海、南京、昆明该病多在7、8月发生。 
  病害防治方法

1、选择平坦或高燥地块栽植或摆放,注意通风透光,高温多雨年份或季节要注意及时排水和倒盆。 

2、选用抗病无退化品种。适时适量施肥,防止偏施、过施氮肥。 

3、精心养护。要注意把湿度降下来,浇水时不要把泥土溅到植株上,有条件的相对湿度应控制在80以下,发现中心病株及时拔除。雨后及时排水防止湿所滞留。 

4、必要时,进入7月雨季后据天气预报,在发病前开展预防性防治及时喷洒50%氟吗啉锰锌(国光三治)400-600倍液,国光绿杀400-600倍液, 可连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
病害危害

一串红疫霉病主要为害一串红。 
  病害分布

分布于全国各地。

病害症状

主要发生在茎、枝上,也为害叶片和叶柄。茎部染病,多从距地面1-2cm的茎节处或分杈处开始发病,病菌侵入后先出现暗绿色不规则水渍状病斑,且不断向上扩展致病部产生褐色无明显边缘的病斑,该病扩展迅速,很快扩展到茎秆中部或顶端,出现黑色斑块,严重时整株变黑,茎部皮层的输导功能遭到破坏,致病部以上茎叶变黄后干枯。叶片染病多始于叶缘和叶基部,形成不规则的近圆形水渍状暗绿色大斑,边缘不明显。叶柄染病叶片萎垂。湿度大时或连续的连阴雨后病部生出稀疏的白霉,即病菌菌丝和孢囊梗及孢子囊。 

病害病原

属寄生疫霉(烟草疫霉),属卵菌,疫霉疫在CA培养基上菌落为棉絮状,气生菌丝茂盛。菌丝直径2-6um,具少量球形菌丝膨大体,大小10-21um;菌丝膨大体上有放射状菌丝。孢囊梗不分枝或呈不规则状分枝,直径2-3.5um,孢子囊球形或宽卵形,个别梨形,顶生,侧生或间生,大小变异大,一般33-61×23-47um,有明显乳突1-2个,个别3个不脱落。游动孢子从孔口直接释放出,也可以泡囊放出,大小9-14×7-12um,鞭毛长6-30um,休止孢子球形,大小8.5-12um,厚垣孢子球形,顶生或间生,大小21-49um,藏卵器球形,大小16-34um,雄器近球形或圆筒形,围生,大小8-16×9-16um,卵孢子球形,无色至浅黄色,大小14-28um,壁厚,满器或不满器。生长温度最低9-10度,最适24-28度,最高为36.5-37度。 

病害发生规律

病菌随病残体中的卵孢子留在土壤中越冬,翌年卵孢子经雨水溅到寄主上,病菌即萌发长出芽管。芽管与一串红表面接触后产生附着器,从其底部生出侵入丝,穿透寄主侵入。后在病部产生孢子囊,萌发后产生游动孢子,借风雨传播进行再侵染。秋后在病组织中又形成卵孢子越冬。 

该菌生长适温24-28度,适宜发病温度28度,相对湿度高于85%,有利于其孢子形成,相对温度高于95%,菌丝生长旺盛。在这个条件下侵入后经24小时即显症,经64个小时,即可再侵染。因此高温多雨、湿度大是该病流行的条件。北京7月上旬至8月中旬第一场大雨后,常出现中心病株,中心病株出现后旬降雨量达100mm,且有大暴雨,中心病株向外扩展很快,如再遇降雨量100mm以上或有1天特大暴雨该病可能大流行,赞成毁灭性为害。北京、上海、南京、昆明该病多在7、8月发生。 
  病害防治方法

1、选择平坦或高燥地块栽植或摆放,注意通风透光,高温多雨年份或季节要注意及时排水和倒盆。 

2、选用抗病无退化品种。适时适量施肥,防止偏施、过施氮肥。 

3、精心养护。要注意把湿度降下来,浇水时不要把泥土溅到植株上,有条件的相对湿度应控制在80以下,发现中心病株及时拔除。雨后及时排水防止湿所滞留。 

4、必要时,进入7月雨季后据天气预报,在发病前开展预防性防治及时喷洒50%氟吗啉锰锌(国光三治)400-600倍液,国光绿杀400-600倍液, 可连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
病害危害

一串红疫霉病主要为害一串红。 
  病害分布

分布于全国各地。

病害症状

主要发生在茎、枝上,也为害叶片和叶柄。茎部染病,多从距地面1-2cm的茎节处或分杈处开始发病,病菌侵入后先出现暗绿色不规则水渍状病斑,且不断向上扩展致病部产生褐色无明显边缘的病斑,该病扩展迅速,很快扩展到茎秆中部或顶端,出现黑色斑块,严重时整株变黑,茎部皮层的输导功能遭到破坏,致病部以上茎叶变黄后干枯。叶片染病多始于叶缘和叶基部,形成不规则的近圆形水渍状暗绿色大斑,边缘不明显。叶柄染病叶片萎垂。湿度大时或连续的连阴雨后病部生出稀疏的白霉,即病菌菌丝和孢囊梗及孢子囊。 

病害病原

属寄生疫霉(烟草疫霉),属卵菌,疫霉疫在CA培养基上菌落为棉絮状,气生菌丝茂盛。菌丝直径2-6um,具少量球形菌丝膨大体,大小10-21um;菌丝膨大体上有放射状菌丝。孢囊梗不分枝或呈不规则状分枝,直径2-3.5um,孢子囊球形或宽卵形,个别梨形,顶生,侧生或间生,大小变异大,一般33-61×23-47um,有明显乳突1-2个,个别3个不脱落。游动孢子从孔口直接释放出,也可以泡囊放出,大小9-14×7-12um,鞭毛长6-30um,休止孢子球形,大小8.5-12um,厚垣孢子球形,顶生或间生,大小21-49um,藏卵器球形,大小16-34um,雄器近球形或圆筒形,围生,大小8-16×9-16um,卵孢子球形,无色至浅黄色,大小14-28um,壁厚,满器或不满器。生长温度最低9-10度,最适24-28度,最高为36.5-37度。 

病害发生规律

病菌随病残体中的卵孢子留在土壤中越冬,翌年卵孢子经雨水溅到寄主上,病菌即萌发长出芽管。芽管与一串红表面接触后产生附着器,从其底部生出侵入丝,穿透寄主侵入。后在病部产生孢子囊,萌发后产生游动孢子,借风雨传播进行再侵染。秋后在病组织中又形成卵孢子越冬。 

该菌生长适温24-28度,适宜发病温度28度,相对湿度高于85%,有利于其孢子形成,相对温度高于95%,菌丝生长旺盛。在这个条件下侵入后经24小时即显症,经64个小时,即可再侵染。因此高温多雨、湿度大是该病流行的条件。北京7月上旬至8月中旬第一场大雨后,常出现中心病株,中心病株出现后旬降雨量达100mm,且有大暴雨,中心病株向外扩展很快,如再遇降雨量100mm以上或有1天特大暴雨该病可能大流行,赞成毁灭性为害。北京、上海、南京、昆明该病多在7、8月发生。 
  病害防治方法

1、选择平坦或高燥地块栽植或摆放,注意通风透光,高温多雨年份或季节要注意及时排水和倒盆。 

2、选用抗病无退化品种。适时适量施肥,防止偏施、过施氮肥。 

3、精心养护。要注意把湿度降下来,浇水时不要把泥土溅到植株上,有条件的相对湿度应控制在80以下,发现中心病株及时拔除。雨后及时排水防止湿所滞留。 

4、必要时,进入7月雨季后据天气预报,在发病前开展预防性防治及时喷洒50%氟吗啉锰锌(国光三治)400-600倍液,国光绿杀400-600倍液, 可连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
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Miss Chen
10 hours ago
Miss Chen
病害危害 危害鸡冠花。
病害症状 叶面生黑褐色圆形至椭圆形或不规则形病斑,大小1—10mm,边缘略隆起,中间灰褐色似轮纹状,具灰黑色霉状物,初时小圆点中心白色,外圈褐色,大小1mm,后融合成5—18X 5—8 (mm)大斑。 病害病原 鸡冠花链格孢(Alternaria celosiae Tassi),属半知菌类真菌;分生孢子棍棒形至洋梨形,褐色,有纵横隔膜,柄和喙部色浅较长,大小17.5—75X6.3—10.5(um)。 病害发生规律 以菌丝体、分生孢子在病残体上或以鸡冠花链格孢分生孢子分生孢子在病组织外,或粘附在种表越冬,成为翌年初侵染源。在室温条件下,种子表面附着的分生孢子可存活1年以上,种子里的菌丝体则可存活一年半以上,病残体上的菌丝体在室内保存可存活2年,在土表或潮湿土壤中可存活1年以上;生长期内病部产生的分生孢子借风雨传播,分生孢子萌发可直接侵入叶片,条件适宜3天即显症,很快形成分生孢子进行再侵染。种子带菌是远距离传播的重要途径。 该病的发生主要-与生育期温湿度关系密切。气温14—36℃,相对湿度高于80%即见发病。雨日多、雨量大,相对湿度高于90%易发病,晴天、日照时间长对该病有一定抑制作用,生产上连作地、偏施氮肥、排水不良、湿气滞留发病重。
病害防治方法 (1)选用无病种子。 (2)轮作倒茬。 (3)施用保得生物肥或酵素菌沤制的堆肥或充分腐熟有机肥,提高抗病力。严防大水漫灌。 (4)棚室养护的鸡冠花发病初期采用粉尘法或烟雾法。①粉尘法,于傍晚喷撒5%百菌清粉尘剂,每667平方米1kg。②烟雾法,于傍晚点燃45%百菌清烟剂,每667m2200—250g,隔7~9天1次,视病情连续或交替轮换使用。 (5)化学防治:可定期喷施国光银泰(80%代森锌可湿性粉剂)600-800倍液+国光思它灵(氨基酸螯合多种微量元素的叶面肥),用于防病前的预防和补充营养,提高观赏性; 发病初期,病初期喷洒25%咪鲜胺乳油(如国光必鲜)500-600倍液,或50%多锰锌可湿性粉剂(如国光英纳)400-600倍液。连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
病害危害

危害鸡冠花。
  病害症状

叶面生黑褐色圆形至椭圆形或不规则形病斑,大小1—10mm,边缘略隆起,中间灰褐色似轮纹状,具灰黑色霉状物,初时小圆点中心白色,外圈褐色,大小1mm,后融合成5—18X 5—8 (mm)大斑。 

病害病原

鸡冠花链格孢(Alternaria celosiae Tassi),属半知菌类真菌;分生孢子棍棒形至洋梨形,褐色,有纵横隔膜,柄和喙部色浅较长,大小17.5—75X6.3—10.5(um)。 

病害发生规律

以菌丝体、分生孢子在病残体上或以鸡冠花链格孢分生孢子分生孢子在病组织外,或粘附在种表越冬,成为翌年初侵染源。在室温条件下,种子表面附着的分生孢子可存活1年以上,种子里的菌丝体则可存活一年半以上,病残体上的菌丝体在室内保存可存活2年,在土表或潮湿土壤中可存活1年以上;生长期内病部产生的分生孢子借风雨传播,分生孢子萌发可直接侵入叶片,条件适宜3天即显症,很快形成分生孢子进行再侵染。种子带菌是远距离传播的重要途径。 

该病的发生主要-与生育期温湿度关系密切。气温14—36℃,相对湿度高于80%即见发病。雨日多、雨量大,相对湿度高于90%易发病,晴天、日照时间长对该病有一定抑制作用,生产上连作地、偏施氮肥、排水不良、湿气滞留发病重。 
  病害防治方法

(1)选用无病种子。 

(2)轮作倒茬。 

(3)施用保得生物肥或酵素菌沤制的堆肥或充分腐熟有机肥,提高抗病力。严防大水漫灌。 

(4)棚室养护的鸡冠花发病初期采用粉尘法或烟雾法。①粉尘法,于傍晚喷撒5%百菌清粉尘剂,每667平方米1kg。②烟雾法,于傍晚点燃45%百菌清烟剂,每667m2200—250g,隔7~9天1次,视病情连续或交替轮换使用。 

(5)化学防治:可定期喷施国光银泰(80%代森锌可湿性粉剂)600-800倍液+国光思它灵(氨基酸螯合多种微量元素的叶面肥),用于防病前的预防和补充营养,提高观赏性; 

发病初期,病初期喷洒25%咪鲜胺乳油(如国光必鲜)500-600倍液,或50%多锰锌可湿性粉剂(如国光英纳)400-600倍液。连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
病害危害

危害鸡冠花。
  病害症状

叶面生黑褐色圆形至椭圆形或不规则形病斑,大小1—10mm,边缘略隆起,中间灰褐色似轮纹状,具灰黑色霉状物,初时小圆点中心白色,外圈褐色,大小1mm,后融合成5—18X 5—8 (mm)大斑。 

病害病原

鸡冠花链格孢(Alternaria celosiae Tassi),属半知菌类真菌;分生孢子棍棒形至洋梨形,褐色,有纵横隔膜,柄和喙部色浅较长,大小17.5—75X6.3—10.5(um)。 

病害发生规律

以菌丝体、分生孢子在病残体上或以鸡冠花链格孢分生孢子分生孢子在病组织外,或粘附在种表越冬,成为翌年初侵染源。在室温条件下,种子表面附着的分生孢子可存活1年以上,种子里的菌丝体则可存活一年半以上,病残体上的菌丝体在室内保存可存活2年,在土表或潮湿土壤中可存活1年以上;生长期内病部产生的分生孢子借风雨传播,分生孢子萌发可直接侵入叶片,条件适宜3天即显症,很快形成分生孢子进行再侵染。种子带菌是远距离传播的重要途径。 

该病的发生主要-与生育期温湿度关系密切。气温14—36℃,相对湿度高于80%即见发病。雨日多、雨量大,相对湿度高于90%易发病,晴天、日照时间长对该病有一定抑制作用,生产上连作地、偏施氮肥、排水不良、湿气滞留发病重。 
  病害防治方法

(1)选用无病种子。 

(2)轮作倒茬。 

(3)施用保得生物肥或酵素菌沤制的堆肥或充分腐熟有机肥,提高抗病力。严防大水漫灌。 

(4)棚室养护的鸡冠花发病初期采用粉尘法或烟雾法。①粉尘法,于傍晚喷撒5%百菌清粉尘剂,每667平方米1kg。②烟雾法,于傍晚点燃45%百菌清烟剂,每667m2200—250g,隔7~9天1次,视病情连续或交替轮换使用。 

(5)化学防治:可定期喷施国光银泰(80%代森锌可湿性粉剂)600-800倍液+国光思它灵(氨基酸螯合多种微量元素的叶面肥),用于防病前的预防和补充营养,提高观赏性; 

发病初期,病初期喷洒25%咪鲜胺乳油(如国光必鲜)500-600倍液,或50%多锰锌可湿性粉剂(如国光英纳)400-600倍液。连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
病害危害

危害鸡冠花。
  病害症状

叶面生黑褐色圆形至椭圆形或不规则形病斑,大小1—10mm,边缘略隆起,中间灰褐色似轮纹状,具灰黑色霉状物,初时小圆点中心白色,外圈褐色,大小1mm,后融合成5—18X 5—8 (mm)大斑。 

病害病原

鸡冠花链格孢(Alternaria celosiae Tassi),属半知菌类真菌;分生孢子棍棒形至洋梨形,褐色,有纵横隔膜,柄和喙部色浅较长,大小17.5—75X6.3—10.5(um)。 

病害发生规律

以菌丝体、分生孢子在病残体上或以鸡冠花链格孢分生孢子分生孢子在病组织外,或粘附在种表越冬,成为翌年初侵染源。在室温条件下,种子表面附着的分生孢子可存活1年以上,种子里的菌丝体则可存活一年半以上,病残体上的菌丝体在室内保存可存活2年,在土表或潮湿土壤中可存活1年以上;生长期内病部产生的分生孢子借风雨传播,分生孢子萌发可直接侵入叶片,条件适宜3天即显症,很快形成分生孢子进行再侵染。种子带菌是远距离传播的重要途径。 

该病的发生主要-与生育期温湿度关系密切。气温14—36℃,相对湿度高于80%即见发病。雨日多、雨量大,相对湿度高于90%易发病,晴天、日照时间长对该病有一定抑制作用,生产上连作地、偏施氮肥、排水不良、湿气滞留发病重。 
  病害防治方法

(1)选用无病种子。 

(2)轮作倒茬。 

(3)施用保得生物肥或酵素菌沤制的堆肥或充分腐熟有机肥,提高抗病力。严防大水漫灌。 

(4)棚室养护的鸡冠花发病初期采用粉尘法或烟雾法。①粉尘法,于傍晚喷撒5%百菌清粉尘剂,每667平方米1kg。②烟雾法,于傍晚点燃45%百菌清烟剂,每667m2200—250g,隔7~9天1次,视病情连续或交替轮换使用。 

(5)化学防治:可定期喷施国光银泰(80%代森锌可湿性粉剂)600-800倍液+国光思它灵(氨基酸螯合多种微量元素的叶面肥),用于防病前的预防和补充营养,提高观赏性; 

发病初期,病初期喷洒25%咪鲜胺乳油(如国光必鲜)500-600倍液,或50%多锰锌可湿性粉剂(如国光英纳)400-600倍液。连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
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0
Article
Miss Chen
10 hours ago
Miss Chen
病害分布 危害唐菖蒲。
病害症状 为害叶、花、球茎。叶片染病初生角状斑,后沿叶脉扩展为长椭圆形黄褐色病斑,边缘浅红褐色,具黄绿色晕圈,老病斑上可见同心轮纹,中央生有黑褐色霉层,即病菌分生孢子梗和分生孢子。花染病产生不规则圆形至椭圆形黄褐色病斑,后期变为黑色。球茎染病生浅色至黑色小斑,由浅人深,致球茎中心呈褐色软木质腐烂。 病害病原 病原为Curvularia trifolii(kauffm.)Boedijn.f.sp.gladioli Parmelee & Luttrell.属半知菌类真菌。菌落毛状,灰褐色至黑色。分生孢子梗褐色,单枝或分枝,顶部多屈曲,大小150×5-7(微米)。分生孢子梭形弯曲,具隔膜3个,大小23-38×12-16 (微米),中间两细胞暗褐色,两端细胞浅褐色。 病害发生规律 病菌在染病的球茎或种子及遗落在土壤中的病残体内存活越冬。翌年通过气流和雨水传播。在整个生长期中,幼嫩组织也可能受侵染,温暖多雨的季节易发病。
病害防治方法 (1)进行3年以上轮作。 (2)球茎或种子处理。把去壳的种子置人0.05%- 0 .1%洗涤剂热溶液(57℃)浸10分钟,球茎用50%苯菌灵(苯来特)可湿性粉剂1000倍液浸 10-15分钟。 (3)化学防治:可定期喷施国光银泰(80%代森锌可湿性粉剂)600-800倍液+国光思它灵(氨基酸螯合多种微量元素的叶面肥),用于防病前的预防和补充营养,提高观赏性; 发病初期,病初期喷洒25%咪鲜胺乳油(如国光必鲜)500-600倍液,或50%多锰锌可湿性粉剂(如国光英纳)400-600倍液。连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
病害分布

危害唐菖蒲。
  病害症状

为害叶、花、球茎。叶片染病初生角状斑,后沿叶脉扩展为长椭圆形黄褐色病斑,边缘浅红褐色,具黄绿色晕圈,老病斑上可见同心轮纹,中央生有黑褐色霉层,即病菌分生孢子梗和分生孢子。花染病产生不规则圆形至椭圆形黄褐色病斑,后期变为黑色。球茎染病生浅色至黑色小斑,由浅人深,致球茎中心呈褐色软木质腐烂。 

病害病原

病原为Curvularia trifolii(kauffm.)Boedijn.f.sp.gladioli Parmelee & Luttrell.属半知菌类真菌。菌落毛状,灰褐色至黑色。分生孢子梗褐色,单枝或分枝,顶部多屈曲,大小150×5-7(微米)。分生孢子梭形弯曲,具隔膜3个,大小23-38×12-16 (微米),中间两细胞暗褐色,两端细胞浅褐色。 

病害发生规律

病菌在染病的球茎或种子及遗落在土壤中的病残体内存活越冬。翌年通过气流和雨水传播。在整个生长期中,幼嫩组织也可能受侵染,温暖多雨的季节易发病。 
  病害防治方法

(1)进行3年以上轮作。 

(2)球茎或种子处理。把去壳的种子置人0.05%- 0 .1%洗涤剂热溶液(57℃)浸10分钟,球茎用50%苯菌灵(苯来特)可湿性粉剂1000倍液浸 10-15分钟。 

(3)化学防治:可定期喷施国光银泰(80%代森锌可湿性粉剂)600-800倍液+国光思它灵(氨基酸螯合多种微量元素的叶面肥),用于防病前的预防和补充营养,提高观赏性; 

发病初期,病初期喷洒25%咪鲜胺乳油(如国光必鲜)500-600倍液,或50%多锰锌可湿性粉剂(如国光英纳)400-600倍液。连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
病害分布

危害唐菖蒲。
  病害症状

为害叶、花、球茎。叶片染病初生角状斑,后沿叶脉扩展为长椭圆形黄褐色病斑,边缘浅红褐色,具黄绿色晕圈,老病斑上可见同心轮纹,中央生有黑褐色霉层,即病菌分生孢子梗和分生孢子。花染病产生不规则圆形至椭圆形黄褐色病斑,后期变为黑色。球茎染病生浅色至黑色小斑,由浅人深,致球茎中心呈褐色软木质腐烂。 

病害病原

病原为Curvularia trifolii(kauffm.)Boedijn.f.sp.gladioli Parmelee & Luttrell.属半知菌类真菌。菌落毛状,灰褐色至黑色。分生孢子梗褐色,单枝或分枝,顶部多屈曲,大小150×5-7(微米)。分生孢子梭形弯曲,具隔膜3个,大小23-38×12-16 (微米),中间两细胞暗褐色,两端细胞浅褐色。 

病害发生规律

病菌在染病的球茎或种子及遗落在土壤中的病残体内存活越冬。翌年通过气流和雨水传播。在整个生长期中,幼嫩组织也可能受侵染,温暖多雨的季节易发病。 
  病害防治方法

(1)进行3年以上轮作。 

(2)球茎或种子处理。把去壳的种子置人0.05%- 0 .1%洗涤剂热溶液(57℃)浸10分钟,球茎用50%苯菌灵(苯来特)可湿性粉剂1000倍液浸 10-15分钟。 

(3)化学防治:可定期喷施国光银泰(80%代森锌可湿性粉剂)600-800倍液+国光思它灵(氨基酸螯合多种微量元素的叶面肥),用于防病前的预防和补充营养,提高观赏性; 

发病初期,病初期喷洒25%咪鲜胺乳油(如国光必鲜)500-600倍液,或50%多锰锌可湿性粉剂(如国光英纳)400-600倍液。连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
病害分布

危害唐菖蒲。
  病害症状

为害叶、花、球茎。叶片染病初生角状斑,后沿叶脉扩展为长椭圆形黄褐色病斑,边缘浅红褐色,具黄绿色晕圈,老病斑上可见同心轮纹,中央生有黑褐色霉层,即病菌分生孢子梗和分生孢子。花染病产生不规则圆形至椭圆形黄褐色病斑,后期变为黑色。球茎染病生浅色至黑色小斑,由浅人深,致球茎中心呈褐色软木质腐烂。 

病害病原

病原为Curvularia trifolii(kauffm.)Boedijn.f.sp.gladioli Parmelee & Luttrell.属半知菌类真菌。菌落毛状,灰褐色至黑色。分生孢子梗褐色,单枝或分枝,顶部多屈曲,大小150×5-7(微米)。分生孢子梭形弯曲,具隔膜3个,大小23-38×12-16 (微米),中间两细胞暗褐色,两端细胞浅褐色。 

病害发生规律

病菌在染病的球茎或种子及遗落在土壤中的病残体内存活越冬。翌年通过气流和雨水传播。在整个生长期中,幼嫩组织也可能受侵染,温暖多雨的季节易发病。 
  病害防治方法

(1)进行3年以上轮作。 

(2)球茎或种子处理。把去壳的种子置人0.05%- 0 .1%洗涤剂热溶液(57℃)浸10分钟,球茎用50%苯菌灵(苯来特)可湿性粉剂1000倍液浸 10-15分钟。 

(3)化学防治:可定期喷施国光银泰(80%代森锌可湿性粉剂)600-800倍液+国光思它灵(氨基酸螯合多种微量元素的叶面肥),用于防病前的预防和补充营养,提高观赏性; 

发病初期,病初期喷洒25%咪鲜胺乳油(如国光必鲜)500-600倍液,或50%多锰锌可湿性粉剂(如国光英纳)400-600倍液。连用2-3次,间隔7-10天。
0
0
Article
Miss Chen
10 hours ago
Miss Chen
病害分布 危害香石竹。
病害症状 又称叶霉病、腻斑病、油斑病。该病发生较普遍,发病初期下部叶片或花蕾表面的角质层、蜡质层受到破坏,产生一层蛛网状霜斑,如果整个叶片或花蕾染病,蜡质层全部消失,病部呈水渍状,相对湿度大时,长出黑色霉层,影响香石竹品质,且易诱发镰刀菌茎基腐病。 病害病原 Zygophiala iamxticensis Mason.菌丝体表生,分生孢子梗散生,组成之字形呈螺旋状,中等至暗褐色,平滑,顶部生一短近无色顶细胞,通常2个,偶有3个向两侧分开的五色至近无色产孢细胞,大小35×4-8(微米)。产胞细胞芽生式。分生孢子纺锤形,单生五色,平滑,有1分隔,分隔处略缢缩,大小13-20×5-6(微米)。除为害香石竹外,还为害芭蕉、金钱草、番石榴等观赏植物。 病害发生规律 病菌菌丝在病部或随病落叶进入土壤中越冬,翌年条件适宜时产生分生孢子进行初侵染和再侵染,温室内空气郁蔽、湿气滞留易发病。
病害防治方法 煤污病多由刺吸式口器害虫引起,若有虫,需先防虫,再治病。 1、加强蚜虫等刺吸式口器害虫的防治 推荐用国光毙克(吡虫啉)1000倍液,或国光崇刻(50%啶虫脒水分散粒剂)3000倍液。 2、药剂防护 可用水枪高压喷淋清洗煤污部分,再用国光松尔400-600倍喷施进行杀菌处理, 若受煤污病影响较大树势衰弱,建议结合施肥复壮树势,帮助植物尽快恢复长势。
病害分布

危害香石竹。
  病害症状

又称叶霉病、腻斑病、油斑病。该病发生较普遍,发病初期下部叶片或花蕾表面的角质层、蜡质层受到破坏,产生一层蛛网状霜斑,如果整个叶片或花蕾染病,蜡质层全部消失,病部呈水渍状,相对湿度大时,长出黑色霉层,影响香石竹品质,且易诱发镰刀菌茎基腐病。

病害病原

Zygophiala iamxticensis Mason.菌丝体表生,分生孢子梗散生,组成之字形呈螺旋状,中等至暗褐色,平滑,顶部生一短近无色顶细胞,通常2个,偶有3个向两侧分开的五色至近无色产孢细胞,大小35×4-8(微米)。产胞细胞芽生式。分生孢子纺锤形,单生五色,平滑,有1分隔,分隔处略缢缩,大小13-20×5-6(微米)。除为害香石竹外,还为害芭蕉、金钱草、番石榴等观赏植物。  

病害发生规律

病菌菌丝在病部或随病落叶进入土壤中越冬,翌年条件适宜时产生分生孢子进行初侵染和再侵染,温室内空气郁蔽、湿气滞留易发病。  
  病害防治方法

煤污病多由刺吸式口器害虫引起,若有虫,需先防虫,再治病。 
     
1、加强蚜虫等刺吸式口器害虫的防治 

推荐用国光毙克(吡虫啉)1000倍液,或国光崇刻(50%啶虫脒水分散粒剂)3000倍液。 

2、药剂防护 

可用水枪高压喷淋清洗煤污部分,再用国光松尔400-600倍喷施进行杀菌处理,  若受煤污病影响较大树势衰弱,建议结合施肥复壮树势,帮助植物尽快恢复长势。
病害分布

危害香石竹。
  病害症状

又称叶霉病、腻斑病、油斑病。该病发生较普遍,发病初期下部叶片或花蕾表面的角质层、蜡质层受到破坏,产生一层蛛网状霜斑,如果整个叶片或花蕾染病,蜡质层全部消失,病部呈水渍状,相对湿度大时,长出黑色霉层,影响香石竹品质,且易诱发镰刀菌茎基腐病。

病害病原

Zygophiala iamxticensis Mason.菌丝体表生,分生孢子梗散生,组成之字形呈螺旋状,中等至暗褐色,平滑,顶部生一短近无色顶细胞,通常2个,偶有3个向两侧分开的五色至近无色产孢细胞,大小35×4-8(微米)。产胞细胞芽生式。分生孢子纺锤形,单生五色,平滑,有1分隔,分隔处略缢缩,大小13-20×5-6(微米)。除为害香石竹外,还为害芭蕉、金钱草、番石榴等观赏植物。  

病害发生规律

病菌菌丝在病部或随病落叶进入土壤中越冬,翌年条件适宜时产生分生孢子进行初侵染和再侵染,温室内空气郁蔽、湿气滞留易发病。  
  病害防治方法

煤污病多由刺吸式口器害虫引起,若有虫,需先防虫,再治病。 
     
1、加强蚜虫等刺吸式口器害虫的防治 

推荐用国光毙克(吡虫啉)1000倍液,或国光崇刻(50%啶虫脒水分散粒剂)3000倍液。 

2、药剂防护 

可用水枪高压喷淋清洗煤污部分,再用国光松尔400-600倍喷施进行杀菌处理,  若受煤污病影响较大树势衰弱,建议结合施肥复壮树势,帮助植物尽快恢复长势。
病害分布

危害香石竹。
  病害症状

又称叶霉病、腻斑病、油斑病。该病发生较普遍,发病初期下部叶片或花蕾表面的角质层、蜡质层受到破坏,产生一层蛛网状霜斑,如果整个叶片或花蕾染病,蜡质层全部消失,病部呈水渍状,相对湿度大时,长出黑色霉层,影响香石竹品质,且易诱发镰刀菌茎基腐病。

病害病原

Zygophiala iamxticensis Mason.菌丝体表生,分生孢子梗散生,组成之字形呈螺旋状,中等至暗褐色,平滑,顶部生一短近无色顶细胞,通常2个,偶有3个向两侧分开的五色至近无色产孢细胞,大小35×4-8(微米)。产胞细胞芽生式。分生孢子纺锤形,单生五色,平滑,有1分隔,分隔处略缢缩,大小13-20×5-6(微米)。除为害香石竹外,还为害芭蕉、金钱草、番石榴等观赏植物。  

病害发生规律

病菌菌丝在病部或随病落叶进入土壤中越冬,翌年条件适宜时产生分生孢子进行初侵染和再侵染,温室内空气郁蔽、湿气滞留易发病。  
  病害防治方法

煤污病多由刺吸式口器害虫引起,若有虫,需先防虫,再治病。 
     
1、加强蚜虫等刺吸式口器害虫的防治 

推荐用国光毙克(吡虫啉)1000倍液,或国光崇刻(50%啶虫脒水分散粒剂)3000倍液。 

2、药剂防护 

可用水枪高压喷淋清洗煤污部分,再用国光松尔400-600倍喷施进行杀菌处理,  若受煤污病影响较大树势衰弱,建议结合施肥复壮树势,帮助植物尽快恢复长势。
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Article
Miss Chen
10 hours ago
Miss Chen
Planting a vegetable garden in Missouri can be rewarding thanks to a relatively warm climate and a growing season that lasts from about April to October. But the variety of climates and temperature zones in the state can make it tricky to know when to start your vegetable garden. Missouri planting climate
During growing season, Missouri gets between 60 and 90 days that are warmer than 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Missouri generally falls under Zones 5 and 6 on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, but the University of Missouri Extension divides the state into three areas, North, Central and South, in determining planting dates for vegetables. The Ozark plateau region also falls under the "North" planting categorization, even though it's in a more southern part of the state, due to its elevation. Planting times in each of these areas is affected by temperature and the date of the last frost. The southern part of Missouri has an average frost-free date of April 5. In northern Missouri, the average frost-free date is typically April 20, though the University of Missouri Extension notes that frost can hit until mid-May. Missouri planting times
Planting dates vary by vegetable variety. The University of Missouri Extension offers a vegetable planting calendar that details planting dates for each vegetable based on region. Cold weather crops, such as beets, carrots, lettuce, peas, cabbage and cauliflower can be planted in March in the southern region. In the north, they can be planted in April, and in the central region they can be planted from mid-March to mid-April. Beans and cucumbers should be planted in mid- to late-April in the south and mid- to late-May in the north, and hey should be planted in early May in central Missouri. Warmer weather crops, such as peppers, squash and tomatoes, can be planted in May in the south, mid-May in central Missouri, and mid- to late-May in the northern region. Sweet corn can be planted from late April to mid-August in the south, from late April to early August in central Missouri and from early May to mid-July in the north. Fall crops
Several varieties of vegetables can be sowed a second time for fall harvest. These dates are also listed on the MU Extension planting calendar. Beets, for example, can be sown from Aug. 1 to 15 in the south, Aug. 1 to 10 in central Missouri and July 25 to Aug. 1 in northern Missouri for a fall crop. Cabbage and carrots can be planted in early August in the south, in central Missouri from late July to early August and in late July in the north.
Planting a vegetable garden in Missouri can be rewarding thanks to a relatively warm climate and a growing season that lasts from about April to October. But the variety of climates and temperature zones in the state can make it tricky to know when to start your vegetable garden.

Missouri planting climate
  During growing season, Missouri gets between 60 and 90 days that are warmer than 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Missouri generally falls under Zones 5 and 6 on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, but the University of Missouri Extension divides the state into three areas, North, Central and South, in determining planting dates for vegetables. The Ozark plateau region also falls under the
Planting a vegetable garden in Missouri can be rewarding thanks to a relatively warm climate and a growing season that lasts from about April to October. But the variety of climates and temperature zones in the state can make it tricky to know when to start your vegetable garden.

Missouri planting climate
  During growing season, Missouri gets between 60 and 90 days that are warmer than 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Missouri generally falls under Zones 5 and 6 on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, but the University of Missouri Extension divides the state into three areas, North, Central and South, in determining planting dates for vegetables. The Ozark plateau region also falls under the
Planting a vegetable garden in Missouri can be rewarding thanks to a relatively warm climate and a growing season that lasts from about April to October. But the variety of climates and temperature zones in the state can make it tricky to know when to start your vegetable garden.

Missouri planting climate
  During growing season, Missouri gets between 60 and 90 days that are warmer than 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Missouri generally falls under Zones 5 and 6 on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, but the University of Missouri Extension divides the state into three areas, North, Central and South, in determining planting dates for vegetables. The Ozark plateau region also falls under the
Planting a vegetable garden in Missouri can be rewarding thanks to a relatively warm climate and a growing season that lasts from about April to October. But the variety of climates and temperature zones in the state can make it tricky to know when to start your vegetable garden.

Missouri planting climate
  During growing season, Missouri gets between 60 and 90 days that are warmer than 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Missouri generally falls under Zones 5 and 6 on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, but the University of Missouri Extension divides the state into three areas, North, Central and South, in determining planting dates for vegetables. The Ozark plateau region also falls under the
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Article
Miss Chen
10 hours ago
Miss Chen
How often a vegetable garden needs water depends on the weather, soil type, growth stage of the vegetables and other factors. Underwatering causes stringy, strongly flavored vegetables, but overwatering increases the risk of plant diseases and reduces vegetables' flavor. When in very wet soil, plants' roots drown, causing the plants to die. Signs of underwatering and overwatering in plants include pale, wilted leaves and poor growth. Regularly checking the soil moisture level gives the best indication of how often to water a vegetable garden.
Checking the Soil Different kinds of soil hold water better than other kinds. Clay soils hold onto moisture, but sandy soils drain freely. A vegetable garden in any kind of soil needs water when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 inches, which is usually about once every four days during hot weather. A garden with clay soil may need water less frequently, and a garden in sandy soil may need water more often. You can test soil's moisture level by pushing your fingers into the soil. Dry soil feels dry to the touch. Another test method is to insert a screwdriver or stick into the soil. Moist soil clings to a screwdriver or stick and looks darker than dry soil. Houseplant soil moisture meters are also useful for measuring soil moisture but are sometimes inaccurate. If the soil is moist just below the soil surface, then usually it also is moist at vegetable plants' root zones, 6 to 8 inches deep. If you want to check deep soil's moisture level, then dig a hole 8 inches deep, and feel the soil at the hole's bottom. Knowing Plants' Water Needs Besides vegetable plants' growth stages, the kinds of vegetables in the garden also affect how often the garden needs water. For example, the annual vegetables corn (Zea mays) and bush beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) need more water when silking and flowering than during their other growth stages. Low soil moisture from those stages until harvest reduces crop yields in corn, beans and other summer vegetables. Apply water to the garden when its soil surface is dry after sowing vegetables and until the seedlings are 4 to 5 inches tall. The soil for growing young vegetable plants should stay consistently moist to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. During hot dry weather, the garden may need watering every day.
Watering the Garden Equipment for watering a vegetable garden includes garden hoses, watering cans, drip-irrigation systems, soaker hoses and sprinklers. Sprinklers are usually a poor choice because some of their water evaporates, and their water falls over the whole garden bed, which encourages leaf diseases and weeds. Applying water at the plant bases is the best method for watering a vegetable garden. Connect a fine-spray rose device to a watering can or a soft-spray attachment to a garden hose for watering vegetable seeds and seedlings as well as other delicate plants. Apply water to the soil until it begins to puddle on the soil surface. Drip-irrigation systems and soaker hoses supply water at plant bases through emitters or perforated hoses, which are connected to a water supply. These devices take time to install but reduce the time spent watering over the long term. Saving Water Mulches and weed control help save water in a vegetable garden. Water-permeable landscape fabric, paper and organic mulches such as straw, compost, wood shavings, rice hulls and bark placed on the soil surface reduce water evaporation from the surface. Weight landscape fabric and paper with stones to prevent wind from lifting them. Spread a layer of an organic mulch 3 or 4 inches thick around vegetable plants. Don't allow mulches to touch vegetable stems, or else the stems may rot. Weeds compete with vegetable plants for water. Remove weeds growing near your vegetables by pulling them upward out of the soil, and shallowly hoe the rest of the vegetable garden once per week.
How often a vegetable garden needs water depends on the weather, soil type, growth stage of the vegetables and other factors. Underwatering causes stringy, strongly flavored vegetables, but overwatering increases the risk of plant diseases and reduces vegetables' flavor. When in very wet soil, plants' roots drown, causing the plants to die. Signs of underwatering and overwatering in plants include pale, wilted leaves and poor growth. Regularly checking the soil moisture level gives the best indication of how often to water a vegetable garden.
  Checking the Soil
Different kinds of soil hold water better than other kinds. Clay soils hold onto moisture, but sandy soils drain freely. A vegetable garden in any kind of soil needs water when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 inches, which is usually about once every four days during hot weather. A garden with clay soil may need water less frequently, and a garden in sandy soil may need water more often.

You can test soil's moisture level by pushing your fingers into the soil. Dry soil feels dry to the touch. Another test method is to insert a screwdriver or stick into the soil. Moist soil clings to a screwdriver or stick and looks darker than dry soil. Houseplant soil moisture meters are also useful for measuring soil moisture but are sometimes inaccurate.

If the soil is moist just below the soil surface, then usually it also is moist at vegetable plants' root zones, 6 to 8 inches deep. If you want to check deep soil's moisture level, then dig a hole 8 inches deep, and feel the soil at the hole's bottom.

Knowing Plants' Water Needs
Besides vegetable plants' growth stages, the kinds of vegetables in the garden also affect how often the garden needs water. For example, the annual vegetables corn (Zea mays) and bush beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) need more water when silking and flowering than during their other growth stages. Low soil moisture from those stages until harvest reduces crop yields in corn, beans and other summer vegetables.

Apply water to the garden when its soil surface is dry after sowing vegetables and until the seedlings are 4 to 5 inches tall. The soil for growing young vegetable plants should stay consistently moist to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. During hot dry weather, the garden may need watering every day.
  Watering the Garden
Equipment for watering a vegetable garden includes garden hoses, watering cans, drip-irrigation systems, soaker hoses and sprinklers. Sprinklers are usually a poor choice because some of their water evaporates, and their water falls over the whole garden bed, which encourages leaf diseases and weeds. Applying water at the plant bases is the best method for watering a vegetable garden.

Connect a fine-spray rose device to a watering can or a soft-spray attachment to a garden hose for watering vegetable seeds and seedlings as well as other delicate plants. Apply water to the soil until it begins to puddle on the soil surface.

Drip-irrigation systems and soaker hoses supply water at plant bases through emitters or perforated hoses, which are connected to a water supply. These devices take time to install but reduce the time spent watering over the long term.

Saving Water
Mulches and weed control help save water in a vegetable garden. Water-permeable landscape fabric, paper and organic mulches such as straw, compost, wood shavings, rice hulls and bark placed on the soil surface reduce water evaporation from the surface. Weight landscape fabric and paper with stones to prevent wind from lifting them. Spread a layer of an organic mulch 3 or 4 inches thick around vegetable plants. Don't allow mulches to touch vegetable stems, or else the stems may rot.

Weeds compete with vegetable plants for water. Remove weeds growing near your vegetables by pulling them upward out of the soil, and shallowly hoe the rest of the vegetable garden once per week.
How often a vegetable garden needs water depends on the weather, soil type, growth stage of the vegetables and other factors. Underwatering causes stringy, strongly flavored vegetables, but overwatering increases the risk of plant diseases and reduces vegetables' flavor. When in very wet soil, plants' roots drown, causing the plants to die. Signs of underwatering and overwatering in plants include pale, wilted leaves and poor growth. Regularly checking the soil moisture level gives the best indication of how often to water a vegetable garden.
  Checking the Soil
Different kinds of soil hold water better than other kinds. Clay soils hold onto moisture, but sandy soils drain freely. A vegetable garden in any kind of soil needs water when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 inches, which is usually about once every four days during hot weather. A garden with clay soil may need water less frequently, and a garden in sandy soil may need water more often.

You can test soil's moisture level by pushing your fingers into the soil. Dry soil feels dry to the touch. Another test method is to insert a screwdriver or stick into the soil. Moist soil clings to a screwdriver or stick and looks darker than dry soil. Houseplant soil moisture meters are also useful for measuring soil moisture but are sometimes inaccurate.

If the soil is moist just below the soil surface, then usually it also is moist at vegetable plants' root zones, 6 to 8 inches deep. If you want to check deep soil's moisture level, then dig a hole 8 inches deep, and feel the soil at the hole's bottom.

Knowing Plants' Water Needs
Besides vegetable plants' growth stages, the kinds of vegetables in the garden also affect how often the garden needs water. For example, the annual vegetables corn (Zea mays) and bush beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) need more water when silking and flowering than during their other growth stages. Low soil moisture from those stages until harvest reduces crop yields in corn, beans and other summer vegetables.

Apply water to the garden when its soil surface is dry after sowing vegetables and until the seedlings are 4 to 5 inches tall. The soil for growing young vegetable plants should stay consistently moist to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. During hot dry weather, the garden may need watering every day.
  Watering the Garden
Equipment for watering a vegetable garden includes garden hoses, watering cans, drip-irrigation systems, soaker hoses and sprinklers. Sprinklers are usually a poor choice because some of their water evaporates, and their water falls over the whole garden bed, which encourages leaf diseases and weeds. Applying water at the plant bases is the best method for watering a vegetable garden.

Connect a fine-spray rose device to a watering can or a soft-spray attachment to a garden hose for watering vegetable seeds and seedlings as well as other delicate plants. Apply water to the soil until it begins to puddle on the soil surface.

Drip-irrigation systems and soaker hoses supply water at plant bases through emitters or perforated hoses, which are connected to a water supply. These devices take time to install but reduce the time spent watering over the long term.

Saving Water
Mulches and weed control help save water in a vegetable garden. Water-permeable landscape fabric, paper and organic mulches such as straw, compost, wood shavings, rice hulls and bark placed on the soil surface reduce water evaporation from the surface. Weight landscape fabric and paper with stones to prevent wind from lifting them. Spread a layer of an organic mulch 3 or 4 inches thick around vegetable plants. Don't allow mulches to touch vegetable stems, or else the stems may rot.

Weeds compete with vegetable plants for water. Remove weeds growing near your vegetables by pulling them upward out of the soil, and shallowly hoe the rest of the vegetable garden once per week.
How often a vegetable garden needs water depends on the weather, soil type, growth stage of the vegetables and other factors. Underwatering causes stringy, strongly flavored vegetables, but overwatering increases the risk of plant diseases and reduces vegetables' flavor. When in very wet soil, plants' roots drown, causing the plants to die. Signs of underwatering and overwatering in plants include pale, wilted leaves and poor growth. Regularly checking the soil moisture level gives the best indication of how often to water a vegetable garden.
  Checking the Soil
Different kinds of soil hold water better than other kinds. Clay soils hold onto moisture, but sandy soils drain freely. A vegetable garden in any kind of soil needs water when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 inches, which is usually about once every four days during hot weather. A garden with clay soil may need water less frequently, and a garden in sandy soil may need water more often.

You can test soil's moisture level by pushing your fingers into the soil. Dry soil feels dry to the touch. Another test method is to insert a screwdriver or stick into the soil. Moist soil clings to a screwdriver or stick and looks darker than dry soil. Houseplant soil moisture meters are also useful for measuring soil moisture but are sometimes inaccurate.

If the soil is moist just below the soil surface, then usually it also is moist at vegetable plants' root zones, 6 to 8 inches deep. If you want to check deep soil's moisture level, then dig a hole 8 inches deep, and feel the soil at the hole's bottom.

Knowing Plants' Water Needs
Besides vegetable plants' growth stages, the kinds of vegetables in the garden also affect how often the garden needs water. For example, the annual vegetables corn (Zea mays) and bush beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) need more water when silking and flowering than during their other growth stages. Low soil moisture from those stages until harvest reduces crop yields in corn, beans and other summer vegetables.

Apply water to the garden when its soil surface is dry after sowing vegetables and until the seedlings are 4 to 5 inches tall. The soil for growing young vegetable plants should stay consistently moist to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. During hot dry weather, the garden may need watering every day.
  Watering the Garden
Equipment for watering a vegetable garden includes garden hoses, watering cans, drip-irrigation systems, soaker hoses and sprinklers. Sprinklers are usually a poor choice because some of their water evaporates, and their water falls over the whole garden bed, which encourages leaf diseases and weeds. Applying water at the plant bases is the best method for watering a vegetable garden.

Connect a fine-spray rose device to a watering can or a soft-spray attachment to a garden hose for watering vegetable seeds and seedlings as well as other delicate plants. Apply water to the soil until it begins to puddle on the soil surface.

Drip-irrigation systems and soaker hoses supply water at plant bases through emitters or perforated hoses, which are connected to a water supply. These devices take time to install but reduce the time spent watering over the long term.

Saving Water
Mulches and weed control help save water in a vegetable garden. Water-permeable landscape fabric, paper and organic mulches such as straw, compost, wood shavings, rice hulls and bark placed on the soil surface reduce water evaporation from the surface. Weight landscape fabric and paper with stones to prevent wind from lifting them. Spread a layer of an organic mulch 3 or 4 inches thick around vegetable plants. Don't allow mulches to touch vegetable stems, or else the stems may rot.

Weeds compete with vegetable plants for water. Remove weeds growing near your vegetables by pulling them upward out of the soil, and shallowly hoe the rest of the vegetable garden once per week.
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0
Article
Miss Chen
10 hours ago
Miss Chen
Vegetable gardening in Tennessee can be broken down into two planting and growing seasons with warm-season vegetables and cool-season vegetables. Warm-season vegetables are planted in the spring after any danger of frost and before July, and cool-season vegetables are planted in the fall to benefit from the winter chill; many cool-season vegetables can also be planted in early spring.
Fall Planting of Cool-Season Vegetables Cool-season vegetables are planted in the summer and fall between July 1st and September 30th for fall and winter harvest. This allows them to take advantage of the cool fall and winter temperatures to germinate and grow properly. Cool-season vegetables are relatively shallow rooted and sensitive to drought, so careful monitoring of water is critical. Examples of cool-season vegetables that work for planting in this time frame in Tennessee are broccoli, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, collards, pickling cucumbers, slicing cucumbers, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, Irish potatoes, icicle radishes and spinach. Spring Planting of Warm-Season Vegetables Warm-season vegetables grow in warm soil and ambient air temperatures which allow them to germinate and develop properly. They are planted between the first week of April and the end of July. Warn-season vegetables and their seeds will be damaged by any exposure to frost or temperatures within 15 degrees of freezing. Unlike winter-season vegetables, they have long, deep roots that make them drought resistant even in the heat of summer, though still requiring watering to grow. For spring planting, consider bush beans, snap beans, pole beans, runner beans, lima beans, cantaloupe, sweet corn, pickling cucumber, slicing cucumber, eggplant, okra, peas, sweet peppers and tomatoes.
Spring Planting of Cool-Season Vegetables You can also plant cool-season vegetables in the spring in Tennessee between early February and the end of March. Cool-season vegetables that can be grown as spring crops include beets, broccoli, savoy cabbage, round green cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, collards, kale, kohlrabi, butter crunch lettuce, iceberg lettuce, mustard greens, bunch onions, sweet storing onions, English peas, sugar snap peas, Irish and Yukon gold potatoes, white icicle radishes, spinach, Swiss chard, rhubarb and turnips.
Vegetable gardening in Tennessee can be broken down into two planting and growing seasons with warm-season vegetables and cool-season vegetables. Warm-season vegetables are planted in the spring after any danger of frost and before July, and cool-season vegetables are planted in the fall to benefit from the winter chill; many cool-season vegetables can also be planted in early spring.
  Fall Planting of Cool-Season Vegetables
Cool-season vegetables are planted in the summer and fall between July 1st and September 30th for fall and winter harvest. This allows them to take advantage of the cool fall and winter temperatures to germinate and grow properly. Cool-season vegetables are relatively shallow rooted and sensitive to drought, so careful monitoring of water is critical. Examples of cool-season vegetables that work for planting in this time frame in Tennessee are broccoli, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, collards, pickling cucumbers, slicing cucumbers, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, Irish potatoes, icicle radishes and spinach.

Spring Planting of Warm-Season Vegetables
Warm-season vegetables grow in warm soil and ambient air temperatures which allow them to germinate and develop properly. They are planted between the first week of April and the end of July. Warn-season vegetables and their seeds will be damaged by any exposure to frost or temperatures within 15 degrees of freezing. Unlike winter-season vegetables, they have long, deep roots that make them drought resistant even in the heat of summer, though still requiring watering to grow. For spring planting, consider bush beans, snap beans, pole beans, runner beans, lima beans, cantaloupe, sweet corn, pickling cucumber, slicing cucumber, eggplant, okra, peas, sweet peppers and tomatoes.
  Spring Planting of Cool-Season Vegetables
You can also plant cool-season vegetables in the spring in Tennessee between early February and the end of March. Cool-season vegetables that can be grown as spring crops include beets, broccoli, savoy cabbage, round green cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, collards, kale, kohlrabi, butter crunch lettuce, iceberg lettuce, mustard greens, bunch onions, sweet storing onions, English peas, sugar snap peas, Irish and Yukon gold potatoes, white icicle radishes, spinach, Swiss chard, rhubarb and turnips.
Vegetable gardening in Tennessee can be broken down into two planting and growing seasons with warm-season vegetables and cool-season vegetables. Warm-season vegetables are planted in the spring after any danger of frost and before July, and cool-season vegetables are planted in the fall to benefit from the winter chill; many cool-season vegetables can also be planted in early spring.
  Fall Planting of Cool-Season Vegetables
Cool-season vegetables are planted in the summer and fall between July 1st and September 30th for fall and winter harvest. This allows them to take advantage of the cool fall and winter temperatures to germinate and grow properly. Cool-season vegetables are relatively shallow rooted and sensitive to drought, so careful monitoring of water is critical. Examples of cool-season vegetables that work for planting in this time frame in Tennessee are broccoli, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, collards, pickling cucumbers, slicing cucumbers, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, Irish potatoes, icicle radishes and spinach.

Spring Planting of Warm-Season Vegetables
Warm-season vegetables grow in warm soil and ambient air temperatures which allow them to germinate and develop properly. They are planted between the first week of April and the end of July. Warn-season vegetables and their seeds will be damaged by any exposure to frost or temperatures within 15 degrees of freezing. Unlike winter-season vegetables, they have long, deep roots that make them drought resistant even in the heat of summer, though still requiring watering to grow. For spring planting, consider bush beans, snap beans, pole beans, runner beans, lima beans, cantaloupe, sweet corn, pickling cucumber, slicing cucumber, eggplant, okra, peas, sweet peppers and tomatoes.
  Spring Planting of Cool-Season Vegetables
You can also plant cool-season vegetables in the spring in Tennessee between early February and the end of March. Cool-season vegetables that can be grown as spring crops include beets, broccoli, savoy cabbage, round green cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, collards, kale, kohlrabi, butter crunch lettuce, iceberg lettuce, mustard greens, bunch onions, sweet storing onions, English peas, sugar snap peas, Irish and Yukon gold potatoes, white icicle radishes, spinach, Swiss chard, rhubarb and turnips.
Vegetable gardening in Tennessee can be broken down into two planting and growing seasons with warm-season vegetables and cool-season vegetables. Warm-season vegetables are planted in the spring after any danger of frost and before July, and cool-season vegetables are planted in the fall to benefit from the winter chill; many cool-season vegetables can also be planted in early spring.
  Fall Planting of Cool-Season Vegetables
Cool-season vegetables are planted in the summer and fall between July 1st and September 30th for fall and winter harvest. This allows them to take advantage of the cool fall and winter temperatures to germinate and grow properly. Cool-season vegetables are relatively shallow rooted and sensitive to drought, so careful monitoring of water is critical. Examples of cool-season vegetables that work for planting in this time frame in Tennessee are broccoli, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, collards, pickling cucumbers, slicing cucumbers, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, Irish potatoes, icicle radishes and spinach.

Spring Planting of Warm-Season Vegetables
Warm-season vegetables grow in warm soil and ambient air temperatures which allow them to germinate and develop properly. They are planted between the first week of April and the end of July. Warn-season vegetables and their seeds will be damaged by any exposure to frost or temperatures within 15 degrees of freezing. Unlike winter-season vegetables, they have long, deep roots that make them drought resistant even in the heat of summer, though still requiring watering to grow. For spring planting, consider bush beans, snap beans, pole beans, runner beans, lima beans, cantaloupe, sweet corn, pickling cucumber, slicing cucumber, eggplant, okra, peas, sweet peppers and tomatoes.
  Spring Planting of Cool-Season Vegetables
You can also plant cool-season vegetables in the spring in Tennessee between early February and the end of March. Cool-season vegetables that can be grown as spring crops include beets, broccoli, savoy cabbage, round green cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, collards, kale, kohlrabi, butter crunch lettuce, iceberg lettuce, mustard greens, bunch onions, sweet storing onions, English peas, sugar snap peas, Irish and Yukon gold potatoes, white icicle radishes, spinach, Swiss chard, rhubarb and turnips.
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Article
Miss Chen
10 hours ago
Miss Chen
Soybeans are native to East Asia. These beans have been the major source of protein for the people of Asia for more than 5,000 years. The United States produces 50 percent of the worlds soybeans. Soybeans are a good source of fiber, protein, magnesium, riboflavin, folic acid, iron and calcium. They protect the heart against oxidation, prevent blood clots and work as antioxidants. The soybean grows in pods. Each pod holds edible seeds. There are three types of soybeans: green soybeans, mature soybeans and dried soybeans.
History Over 13,000 years ago, China discovered soybeans. These beans were the most important crop in the area. In the 8th century, soybeans were introduced in Japan and other areas of Asia. In the 18th century, soybeans appeared in the United States. They were planted by an American who returned home from a visit to China. During the 19th century, the farming of soybeans became popular. By the early 20th century, John Kellogg and George Carver discovered the health benefits of these beans and began promoting them. Their popularity continues to grow today. Green Soybeans Green soybeans, also known as Edamame, are harvested prematurely, while the beans are still green. These beans are large and have a sweet taste. Edamame often are added to rice dishes, salads and soup. They are available throughout the year. Many times, Edamame are sold frozen, in bags. Frozen green soybeans can be kept for several months. Fresh Edamame can be found at many Asian markets. To prepare green soybeans; boil the seeds in fresh water with a few dashes of salt, or steam them in their pods until they are hot. Mature Soybeans Mature soybeans are light brown in color. They are harvested when they have reached maturity, and are available year round. These soybeans are sold both in and out of the pod. Asian markets sell them in both varieties. Mature soybeans need to be used within a few days, while keeping them refrigerated. To prepare, boil the soybeans out of their pods until they are tender. Mature soybeans often need other ingredients to bring out their flavor, such as onions, spices and salt. They can be served as a side dish, or as an ingredient to other dishes -- soups, rices and casseroles. Dried Soybeans Dried soybeans are available at most health-food shops and some supermarkets. These beans are pea-sized, and require soaking overnight before being cooked. To cook them, boil them slowly on the stove for a few hours. Three hours is the average time it takes for these beans to become tender. Seasonings should be added, due to the dried soybeans being mild in flavor. They can also be added to other dishes as an ingredient--soups, salads and rice dishes.
Health Benefits Soybeans provide calcium, protein, iron, fiber, fatty acids, copper, vitamin B2, potassium, phosphorus and molybdenum. Soybeans contain so much fiber, they may prevent colon cancer. The fiber in soybeans binds cancer-causing toxins and helps the body remove them -- preventing them from damaging the colon. Soybeans also can lower cholesterol. A peptide found in soybeans called lunasin can lower your cholesterol by up to 30 percent.
Soybeans are native to East Asia. These beans have been the major source of protein for the people of Asia for more than 5,000 years. The United States produces 50 percent of the worlds soybeans. Soybeans are a good source of fiber, protein, magnesium, riboflavin, folic acid, iron and calcium. They protect the heart against oxidation, prevent blood clots and work as antioxidants. The soybean grows in pods. Each pod holds edible seeds. There are three types of soybeans: green soybeans, mature soybeans and dried soybeans.
  History
Over 13,000 years ago, China discovered soybeans. These beans were the most important crop in the area. In the 8th century, soybeans were introduced in Japan and other areas of Asia. In the 18th century, soybeans appeared in the United States. They were planted by an American who returned home from a visit to China. During the 19th century, the farming of soybeans became popular. By the early 20th century, John Kellogg and George Carver discovered the health benefits of these beans and began promoting them. Their popularity continues to grow today.

Green Soybeans
Green soybeans, also known as Edamame, are harvested prematurely, while the beans are still green. These beans are large and have a sweet taste. Edamame often are added to rice dishes, salads and soup. They are available throughout the year. Many times, Edamame are sold frozen, in bags. Frozen green soybeans can be kept for several months. Fresh Edamame can be found at many Asian markets. To prepare green soybeans; boil the seeds in fresh water with a few dashes of salt, or steam them in their pods until they are hot.

Mature Soybeans
Mature soybeans are light brown in color. They are harvested when they have reached maturity, and are available year round. These soybeans are sold both in and out of the pod. Asian markets sell them in both varieties. Mature soybeans need to be used within a few days, while keeping them refrigerated. To prepare, boil the soybeans out of their pods until they are tender. Mature soybeans often need other ingredients to bring out their flavor, such as onions, spices and salt. They can be served as a side dish, or as an ingredient to other dishes -- soups, rices and casseroles.

Dried Soybeans
Dried soybeans are available at most health-food shops and some supermarkets. These beans are pea-sized, and require soaking overnight before being cooked. To cook them, boil them slowly on the stove for a few hours. Three hours is the average time it takes for these beans to become tender. Seasonings should be added, due to the dried soybeans being mild in flavor. They can also be added to other dishes as an ingredient--soups, salads and rice dishes.
  Health Benefits
Soybeans provide calcium, protein, iron, fiber, fatty acids, copper, vitamin B2, potassium, phosphorus and molybdenum. Soybeans contain so much fiber, they may prevent colon cancer. The fiber in soybeans binds cancer-causing toxins and helps the body remove them -- preventing them from damaging the colon. Soybeans also can lower cholesterol. A peptide found in soybeans called lunasin can lower your cholesterol by up to 30 percent.
Soybeans are native to East Asia. These beans have been the major source of protein for the people of Asia for more than 5,000 years. The United States produces 50 percent of the worlds soybeans. Soybeans are a good source of fiber, protein, magnesium, riboflavin, folic acid, iron and calcium. They protect the heart against oxidation, prevent blood clots and work as antioxidants. The soybean grows in pods. Each pod holds edible seeds. There are three types of soybeans: green soybeans, mature soybeans and dried soybeans.
  History
Over 13,000 years ago, China discovered soybeans. These beans were the most important crop in the area. In the 8th century, soybeans were introduced in Japan and other areas of Asia. In the 18th century, soybeans appeared in the United States. They were planted by an American who returned home from a visit to China. During the 19th century, the farming of soybeans became popular. By the early 20th century, John Kellogg and George Carver discovered the health benefits of these beans and began promoting them. Their popularity continues to grow today.

Green Soybeans
Green soybeans, also known as Edamame, are harvested prematurely, while the beans are still green. These beans are large and have a sweet taste. Edamame often are added to rice dishes, salads and soup. They are available throughout the year. Many times, Edamame are sold frozen, in bags. Frozen green soybeans can be kept for several months. Fresh Edamame can be found at many Asian markets. To prepare green soybeans; boil the seeds in fresh water with a few dashes of salt, or steam them in their pods until they are hot.

Mature Soybeans
Mature soybeans are light brown in color. They are harvested when they have reached maturity, and are available year round. These soybeans are sold both in and out of the pod. Asian markets sell them in both varieties. Mature soybeans need to be used within a few days, while keeping them refrigerated. To prepare, boil the soybeans out of their pods until they are tender. Mature soybeans often need other ingredients to bring out their flavor, such as onions, spices and salt. They can be served as a side dish, or as an ingredient to other dishes -- soups, rices and casseroles.

Dried Soybeans
Dried soybeans are available at most health-food shops and some supermarkets. These beans are pea-sized, and require soaking overnight before being cooked. To cook them, boil them slowly on the stove for a few hours. Three hours is the average time it takes for these beans to become tender. Seasonings should be added, due to the dried soybeans being mild in flavor. They can also be added to other dishes as an ingredient--soups, salads and rice dishes.
  Health Benefits
Soybeans provide calcium, protein, iron, fiber, fatty acids, copper, vitamin B2, potassium, phosphorus and molybdenum. Soybeans contain so much fiber, they may prevent colon cancer. The fiber in soybeans binds cancer-causing toxins and helps the body remove them -- preventing them from damaging the colon. Soybeans also can lower cholesterol. A peptide found in soybeans called lunasin can lower your cholesterol by up to 30 percent.
Soybeans are native to East Asia. These beans have been the major source of protein for the people of Asia for more than 5,000 years. The United States produces 50 percent of the worlds soybeans. Soybeans are a good source of fiber, protein, magnesium, riboflavin, folic acid, iron and calcium. They protect the heart against oxidation, prevent blood clots and work as antioxidants. The soybean grows in pods. Each pod holds edible seeds. There are three types of soybeans: green soybeans, mature soybeans and dried soybeans.
  History
Over 13,000 years ago, China discovered soybeans. These beans were the most important crop in the area. In the 8th century, soybeans were introduced in Japan and other areas of Asia. In the 18th century, soybeans appeared in the United States. They were planted by an American who returned home from a visit to China. During the 19th century, the farming of soybeans became popular. By the early 20th century, John Kellogg and George Carver discovered the health benefits of these beans and began promoting them. Their popularity continues to grow today.

Green Soybeans
Green soybeans, also known as Edamame, are harvested prematurely, while the beans are still green. These beans are large and have a sweet taste. Edamame often are added to rice dishes, salads and soup. They are available throughout the year. Many times, Edamame are sold frozen, in bags. Frozen green soybeans can be kept for several months. Fresh Edamame can be found at many Asian markets. To prepare green soybeans; boil the seeds in fresh water with a few dashes of salt, or steam them in their pods until they are hot.

Mature Soybeans
Mature soybeans are light brown in color. They are harvested when they have reached maturity, and are available year round. These soybeans are sold both in and out of the pod. Asian markets sell them in both varieties. Mature soybeans need to be used within a few days, while keeping them refrigerated. To prepare, boil the soybeans out of their pods until they are tender. Mature soybeans often need other ingredients to bring out their flavor, such as onions, spices and salt. They can be served as a side dish, or as an ingredient to other dishes -- soups, rices and casseroles.

Dried Soybeans
Dried soybeans are available at most health-food shops and some supermarkets. These beans are pea-sized, and require soaking overnight before being cooked. To cook them, boil them slowly on the stove for a few hours. Three hours is the average time it takes for these beans to become tender. Seasonings should be added, due to the dried soybeans being mild in flavor. They can also be added to other dishes as an ingredient--soups, salads and rice dishes.
  Health Benefits
Soybeans provide calcium, protein, iron, fiber, fatty acids, copper, vitamin B2, potassium, phosphorus and molybdenum. Soybeans contain so much fiber, they may prevent colon cancer. The fiber in soybeans binds cancer-causing toxins and helps the body remove them -- preventing them from damaging the colon. Soybeans also can lower cholesterol. A peptide found in soybeans called lunasin can lower your cholesterol by up to 30 percent.
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Article
Miss Chen
10 hours ago
Miss Chen
Vegetables grow at different rates depending on the type they are. Some will be ready to harvest within a month, while others will take more than a year to grow. The time spent growing your own vegetables is well worth it. Fresh, home-grown vegetables taste best and often are more nutritious than vegetables that have been shipped across the country and stored on a grocer's shelf. Whether you have a large garden, a small patch of ground in your back yard, or just a container on your patio, it's possible to grow your own vegetables. If you live in an area with a very short growing season, you may not be able to grow certain types of vegetables unless you have a greenhouse. Radishes
by Svadilfari, Radishes grow quickly. Radishes are grown from seed and are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. You can start them indoors in February or March and then put them in the garden when all danger of frost has passed. They will be ready to pick in about 30 days. You can even get a second harvest if you start your second set of seeds indoors in March and place them in the garden after you harvest the first bunch. Beans
by wanko, Green Beans ready for harvest There are many types of beans, but they basically all take approximately the same time to grow. Pole bean seeds can be planted directly in the garden around a pole or trellis in May in the northern gardening zones, and they will be ready to harvest in about 60 to 70 days. Bush beans should be planted in April or May and take the same 60 to 70 days. In warmer climates where you can plant a month earlier, offset a few rows by a few days so all your beans don't come in at once. Once beans are harvested, the soil can be used for a fall crop. Beans are not cold-hardy and will not tolerate a frost. Other crops that grow in this time frame are onions and peas. Corn
by La Grande Farmers' Market, Fresh corn on the cob Corn needs a lot of space and may not be suitable for all gardens. It should be planted in blocks of rows to ensure good pollination. There are many varieties of corn and it will take between two to a little over three months to harvest, depending on the variety. Lettuce, spinach and some varieties of potatoes also take about two to three months to grow to maturity. Potatoes
by Dr. Hemmert, Freshly harvested potatoes Potatoes are very easy vegetables to grow and you can grow them from the potatoes in your kitchen. There are many varieties, and each will be ready to harvest at different times. The main tip to follow when growing potatoes is not to allow the tuber to receive direct sunlight. The sun will cause it to turn green and you will have to throw it out because it will be poisonous. Early varieties will take as little as 70 days, while the mid and late varieties can take from 90 to 150 days before they are ready to dig. Check to see if they are ready by digging down to see how large the potato is without disturbing the roots. If it feels large enough, dig out only the number of potatoes that you need and allow the rest to grow until the entire plant dies down. Then harvest them all. Squash and tomatoes take about the same time to grow. Cabbage
by net_efekt, Coleslaw anyone? Cabbage, broccoli, peppers and eggplant take four to five months to grow to maturity. Cabbage and peppers, however, should be planted indoors a month or two before transplanting to the garden. Begin the seeds in February or March and place in the garden in May. Other vegetables that grow in this time frame are pumpkins and watermelons. Asparagus
by rust.bucket, Asparagas is easy to grow. Plant asparagus as soon as you can work the soil. You can grow asparagus by planting seed or roots, but roots will grow faster. You should not harvest the asparagus until the second or even third spring after planting to allow the plant to get well established. Mulching in the late fall will protect the plant roots from frost heave and they will return without being replanted. Use compost when planting. As the plant grows, it will spread with new plants, so give it lots of room.
Vegetables grow at different rates depending on the type they are. Some will be ready to harvest within a month, while others will take more than a year to grow. The time spent growing your own vegetables is well worth it. Fresh, home-grown vegetables taste best and often are more nutritious than vegetables that have been shipped across the country and stored on a grocer's shelf.

Whether you have a large garden, a small patch of ground in your back yard, or just a container on your patio, it's possible to grow your own vegetables. If you live in an area with a very short growing season, you may not be able to grow certain types of vegetables unless you have a greenhouse.

Radishes
  by Svadilfari, Radishes grow quickly.
Radishes are grown from seed and are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. You can start them indoors in February or March and then put them in the garden when all danger of frost has passed. They will be ready to pick in about 30 days. You can even get a second harvest if you start your second set of seeds indoors in March and place them in the garden after you harvest the first bunch.

Beans
  by wanko, Green Beans ready for harvest
There are many types of beans, but they basically all take approximately the same time to grow. Pole bean seeds can be planted directly in the garden around a pole or trellis in May in the northern gardening zones, and they will be ready to harvest in about 60 to 70 days. Bush beans should be planted in April or May and take the same 60 to 70 days. In warmer climates where you can plant a month earlier, offset a few rows by a few days so all your beans don't come in at once. Once beans are harvested, the soil can be used for a fall crop. Beans are not cold-hardy and will not tolerate a frost. Other crops that grow in this time frame are onions and peas.

Corn
  by La Grande Farmers' Market, Fresh corn on the cob
Corn needs a lot of space and may not be suitable for all gardens. It should be planted in blocks of rows to ensure good pollination. There are many varieties of corn and it will take between two to a little over three months to harvest, depending on the variety. Lettuce, spinach and some varieties of potatoes also take about two to three months to grow to maturity.

Potatoes
  by Dr. Hemmert, Freshly harvested potatoes
Potatoes are very easy vegetables to grow and you can grow them from the potatoes in your kitchen. There are many varieties, and each will be ready to harvest at different times. The main tip to follow when growing potatoes is not to allow the tuber to receive direct sunlight. The sun will cause it to turn green and you will have to throw it out because it will be poisonous. Early varieties will take as little as 70 days, while the mid and late varieties can take from 90 to 150 days before they are ready to dig. Check to see if they are ready by digging down to see how large the potato is without disturbing the roots. If it feels large enough, dig out only the number of potatoes that you need and allow the rest to grow until the entire plant dies down. Then harvest them all. Squash and tomatoes take about the same time to grow.

Cabbage
  by net_efekt, Coleslaw anyone?
Cabbage, broccoli, peppers and eggplant take four to five months to grow to maturity. Cabbage and peppers, however, should be planted indoors a month or two before transplanting to the garden. Begin the seeds in February or March and place in the garden in May. Other vegetables that grow in this time frame are pumpkins and watermelons.

Asparagus
  by rust.bucket, Asparagas is easy to grow.
Plant asparagus as soon as you can work the soil. You can grow asparagus by planting seed or roots, but roots will grow faster. You should not harvest the asparagus until the second or even third spring after planting to allow the plant to get well established. Mulching in the late fall will protect the plant roots from frost heave and they will return without being replanted. Use compost when planting. As the plant grows, it will spread with new plants, so give it lots of room.
Vegetables grow at different rates depending on the type they are. Some will be ready to harvest within a month, while others will take more than a year to grow. The time spent growing your own vegetables is well worth it. Fresh, home-grown vegetables taste best and often are more nutritious than vegetables that have been shipped across the country and stored on a grocer's shelf.

Whether you have a large garden, a small patch of ground in your back yard, or just a container on your patio, it's possible to grow your own vegetables. If you live in an area with a very short growing season, you may not be able to grow certain types of vegetables unless you have a greenhouse.

Radishes
  by Svadilfari, Radishes grow quickly.
Radishes are grown from seed and are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. You can start them indoors in February or March and then put them in the garden when all danger of frost has passed. They will be ready to pick in about 30 days. You can even get a second harvest if you start your second set of seeds indoors in March and place them in the garden after you harvest the first bunch.

Beans
  by wanko, Green Beans ready for harvest
There are many types of beans, but they basically all take approximately the same time to grow. Pole bean seeds can be planted directly in the garden around a pole or trellis in May in the northern gardening zones, and they will be ready to harvest in about 60 to 70 days. Bush beans should be planted in April or May and take the same 60 to 70 days. In warmer climates where you can plant a month earlier, offset a few rows by a few days so all your beans don't come in at once. Once beans are harvested, the soil can be used for a fall crop. Beans are not cold-hardy and will not tolerate a frost. Other crops that grow in this time frame are onions and peas.

Corn
  by La Grande Farmers' Market, Fresh corn on the cob
Corn needs a lot of space and may not be suitable for all gardens. It should be planted in blocks of rows to ensure good pollination. There are many varieties of corn and it will take between two to a little over three months to harvest, depending on the variety. Lettuce, spinach and some varieties of potatoes also take about two to three months to grow to maturity.

Potatoes
  by Dr. Hemmert, Freshly harvested potatoes
Potatoes are very easy vegetables to grow and you can grow them from the potatoes in your kitchen. There are many varieties, and each will be ready to harvest at different times. The main tip to follow when growing potatoes is not to allow the tuber to receive direct sunlight. The sun will cause it to turn green and you will have to throw it out because it will be poisonous. Early varieties will take as little as 70 days, while the mid and late varieties can take from 90 to 150 days before they are ready to dig. Check to see if they are ready by digging down to see how large the potato is without disturbing the roots. If it feels large enough, dig out only the number of potatoes that you need and allow the rest to grow until the entire plant dies down. Then harvest them all. Squash and tomatoes take about the same time to grow.

Cabbage
  by net_efekt, Coleslaw anyone?
Cabbage, broccoli, peppers and eggplant take four to five months to grow to maturity. Cabbage and peppers, however, should be planted indoors a month or two before transplanting to the garden. Begin the seeds in February or March and place in the garden in May. Other vegetables that grow in this time frame are pumpkins and watermelons.

Asparagus
  by rust.bucket, Asparagas is easy to grow.
Plant asparagus as soon as you can work the soil. You can grow asparagus by planting seed or roots, but roots will grow faster. You should not harvest the asparagus until the second or even third spring after planting to allow the plant to get well established. Mulching in the late fall will protect the plant roots from frost heave and they will return without being replanted. Use compost when planting. As the plant grows, it will spread with new plants, so give it lots of room.
Vegetables grow at different rates depending on the type they are. Some will be ready to harvest within a month, while others will take more than a year to grow. The time spent growing your own vegetables is well worth it. Fresh, home-grown vegetables taste best and often are more nutritious than vegetables that have been shipped across the country and stored on a grocer's shelf.

Whether you have a large garden, a small patch of ground in your back yard, or just a container on your patio, it's possible to grow your own vegetables. If you live in an area with a very short growing season, you may not be able to grow certain types of vegetables unless you have a greenhouse.

Radishes
  by Svadilfari, Radishes grow quickly.
Radishes are grown from seed and are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. You can start them indoors in February or March and then put them in the garden when all danger of frost has passed. They will be ready to pick in about 30 days. You can even get a second harvest if you start your second set of seeds indoors in March and place them in the garden after you harvest the first bunch.

Beans
  by wanko, Green Beans ready for harvest
There are many types of beans, but they basically all take approximately the same time to grow. Pole bean seeds can be planted directly in the garden around a pole or trellis in May in the northern gardening zones, and they will be ready to harvest in about 60 to 70 days. Bush beans should be planted in April or May and take the same 60 to 70 days. In warmer climates where you can plant a month earlier, offset a few rows by a few days so all your beans don't come in at once. Once beans are harvested, the soil can be used for a fall crop. Beans are not cold-hardy and will not tolerate a frost. Other crops that grow in this time frame are onions and peas.

Corn
  by La Grande Farmers' Market, Fresh corn on the cob
Corn needs a lot of space and may not be suitable for all gardens. It should be planted in blocks of rows to ensure good pollination. There are many varieties of corn and it will take between two to a little over three months to harvest, depending on the variety. Lettuce, spinach and some varieties of potatoes also take about two to three months to grow to maturity.

Potatoes
  by Dr. Hemmert, Freshly harvested potatoes
Potatoes are very easy vegetables to grow and you can grow them from the potatoes in your kitchen. There are many varieties, and each will be ready to harvest at different times. The main tip to follow when growing potatoes is not to allow the tuber to receive direct sunlight. The sun will cause it to turn green and you will have to throw it out because it will be poisonous. Early varieties will take as little as 70 days, while the mid and late varieties can take from 90 to 150 days before they are ready to dig. Check to see if they are ready by digging down to see how large the potato is without disturbing the roots. If it feels large enough, dig out only the number of potatoes that you need and allow the rest to grow until the entire plant dies down. Then harvest them all. Squash and tomatoes take about the same time to grow.

Cabbage
  by net_efekt, Coleslaw anyone?
Cabbage, broccoli, peppers and eggplant take four to five months to grow to maturity. Cabbage and peppers, however, should be planted indoors a month or two before transplanting to the garden. Begin the seeds in February or March and place in the garden in May. Other vegetables that grow in this time frame are pumpkins and watermelons.

Asparagus
  by rust.bucket, Asparagas is easy to grow.
Plant asparagus as soon as you can work the soil. You can grow asparagus by planting seed or roots, but roots will grow faster. You should not harvest the asparagus until the second or even third spring after planting to allow the plant to get well established. Mulching in the late fall will protect the plant roots from frost heave and they will return without being replanted. Use compost when planting. As the plant grows, it will spread with new plants, so give it lots of room.
Vegetables grow at different rates depending on the type they are. Some will be ready to harvest within a month, while others will take more than a year to grow. The time spent growing your own vegetables is well worth it. Fresh, home-grown vegetables taste best and often are more nutritious than vegetables that have been shipped across the country and stored on a grocer's shelf.

Whether you have a large garden, a small patch of ground in your back yard, or just a container on your patio, it's possible to grow your own vegetables. If you live in an area with a very short growing season, you may not be able to grow certain types of vegetables unless you have a greenhouse.

Radishes
  by Svadilfari, Radishes grow quickly.
Radishes are grown from seed and are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. You can start them indoors in February or March and then put them in the garden when all danger of frost has passed. They will be ready to pick in about 30 days. You can even get a second harvest if you start your second set of seeds indoors in March and place them in the garden after you harvest the first bunch.

Beans
  by wanko, Green Beans ready for harvest
There are many types of beans, but they basically all take approximately the same time to grow. Pole bean seeds can be planted directly in the garden around a pole or trellis in May in the northern gardening zones, and they will be ready to harvest in about 60 to 70 days. Bush beans should be planted in April or May and take the same 60 to 70 days. In warmer climates where you can plant a month earlier, offset a few rows by a few days so all your beans don't come in at once. Once beans are harvested, the soil can be used for a fall crop. Beans are not cold-hardy and will not tolerate a frost. Other crops that grow in this time frame are onions and peas.

Corn
  by La Grande Farmers' Market, Fresh corn on the cob
Corn needs a lot of space and may not be suitable for all gardens. It should be planted in blocks of rows to ensure good pollination. There are many varieties of corn and it will take between two to a little over three months to harvest, depending on the variety. Lettuce, spinach and some varieties of potatoes also take about two to three months to grow to maturity.

Potatoes
  by Dr. Hemmert, Freshly harvested potatoes
Potatoes are very easy vegetables to grow and you can grow them from the potatoes in your kitchen. There are many varieties, and each will be ready to harvest at different times. The main tip to follow when growing potatoes is not to allow the tuber to receive direct sunlight. The sun will cause it to turn green and you will have to throw it out because it will be poisonous. Early varieties will take as little as 70 days, while the mid and late varieties can take from 90 to 150 days before they are ready to dig. Check to see if they are ready by digging down to see how large the potato is without disturbing the roots. If it feels large enough, dig out only the number of potatoes that you need and allow the rest to grow until the entire plant dies down. Then harvest them all. Squash and tomatoes take about the same time to grow.

Cabbage
  by net_efekt, Coleslaw anyone?
Cabbage, broccoli, peppers and eggplant take four to five months to grow to maturity. Cabbage and peppers, however, should be planted indoors a month or two before transplanting to the garden. Begin the seeds in February or March and place in the garden in May. Other vegetables that grow in this time frame are pumpkins and watermelons.

Asparagus
  by rust.bucket, Asparagas is easy to grow.
Plant asparagus as soon as you can work the soil. You can grow asparagus by planting seed or roots, but roots will grow faster. You should not harvest the asparagus until the second or even third spring after planting to allow the plant to get well established. Mulching in the late fall will protect the plant roots from frost heave and they will return without being replanted. Use compost when planting. As the plant grows, it will spread with new plants, so give it lots of room.
Vegetables grow at different rates depending on the type they are. Some will be ready to harvest within a month, while others will take more than a year to grow. The time spent growing your own vegetables is well worth it. Fresh, home-grown vegetables taste best and often are more nutritious than vegetables that have been shipped across the country and stored on a grocer's shelf.

Whether you have a large garden, a small patch of ground in your back yard, or just a container on your patio, it's possible to grow your own vegetables. If you live in an area with a very short growing season, you may not be able to grow certain types of vegetables unless you have a greenhouse.

Radishes
  by Svadilfari, Radishes grow quickly.
Radishes are grown from seed and are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. You can start them indoors in February or March and then put them in the garden when all danger of frost has passed. They will be ready to pick in about 30 days. You can even get a second harvest if you start your second set of seeds indoors in March and place them in the garden after you harvest the first bunch.

Beans
  by wanko, Green Beans ready for harvest
There are many types of beans, but they basically all take approximately the same time to grow. Pole bean seeds can be planted directly in the garden around a pole or trellis in May in the northern gardening zones, and they will be ready to harvest in about 60 to 70 days. Bush beans should be planted in April or May and take the same 60 to 70 days. In warmer climates where you can plant a month earlier, offset a few rows by a few days so all your beans don't come in at once. Once beans are harvested, the soil can be used for a fall crop. Beans are not cold-hardy and will not tolerate a frost. Other crops that grow in this time frame are onions and peas.

Corn
  by La Grande Farmers' Market, Fresh corn on the cob
Corn needs a lot of space and may not be suitable for all gardens. It should be planted in blocks of rows to ensure good pollination. There are many varieties of corn and it will take between two to a little over three months to harvest, depending on the variety. Lettuce, spinach and some varieties of potatoes also take about two to three months to grow to maturity.

Potatoes
  by Dr. Hemmert, Freshly harvested potatoes
Potatoes are very easy vegetables to grow and you can grow them from the potatoes in your kitchen. There are many varieties, and each will be ready to harvest at different times. The main tip to follow when growing potatoes is not to allow the tuber to receive direct sunlight. The sun will cause it to turn green and you will have to throw it out because it will be poisonous. Early varieties will take as little as 70 days, while the mid and late varieties can take from 90 to 150 days before they are ready to dig. Check to see if they are ready by digging down to see how large the potato is without disturbing the roots. If it feels large enough, dig out only the number of potatoes that you need and allow the rest to grow until the entire plant dies down. Then harvest them all. Squash and tomatoes take about the same time to grow.

Cabbage
  by net_efekt, Coleslaw anyone?
Cabbage, broccoli, peppers and eggplant take four to five months to grow to maturity. Cabbage and peppers, however, should be planted indoors a month or two before transplanting to the garden. Begin the seeds in February or March and place in the garden in May. Other vegetables that grow in this time frame are pumpkins and watermelons.

Asparagus
  by rust.bucket, Asparagas is easy to grow.
Plant asparagus as soon as you can work the soil. You can grow asparagus by planting seed or roots, but roots will grow faster. You should not harvest the asparagus until the second or even third spring after planting to allow the plant to get well established. Mulching in the late fall will protect the plant roots from frost heave and they will return without being replanted. Use compost when planting. As the plant grows, it will spread with new plants, so give it lots of room.
Vegetables grow at different rates depending on the type they are. Some will be ready to harvest within a month, while others will take more than a year to grow. The time spent growing your own vegetables is well worth it. Fresh, home-grown vegetables taste best and often are more nutritious than vegetables that have been shipped across the country and stored on a grocer's shelf.

Whether you have a large garden, a small patch of ground in your back yard, or just a container on your patio, it's possible to grow your own vegetables. If you live in an area with a very short growing season, you may not be able to grow certain types of vegetables unless you have a greenhouse.

Radishes
  by Svadilfari, Radishes grow quickly.
Radishes are grown from seed and are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. You can start them indoors in February or March and then put them in the garden when all danger of frost has passed. They will be ready to pick in about 30 days. You can even get a second harvest if you start your second set of seeds indoors in March and place them in the garden after you harvest the first bunch.

Beans
  by wanko, Green Beans ready for harvest
There are many types of beans, but they basically all take approximately the same time to grow. Pole bean seeds can be planted directly in the garden around a pole or trellis in May in the northern gardening zones, and they will be ready to harvest in about 60 to 70 days. Bush beans should be planted in April or May and take the same 60 to 70 days. In warmer climates where you can plant a month earlier, offset a few rows by a few days so all your beans don't come in at once. Once beans are harvested, the soil can be used for a fall crop. Beans are not cold-hardy and will not tolerate a frost. Other crops that grow in this time frame are onions and peas.

Corn
  by La Grande Farmers' Market, Fresh corn on the cob
Corn needs a lot of space and may not be suitable for all gardens. It should be planted in blocks of rows to ensure good pollination. There are many varieties of corn and it will take between two to a little over three months to harvest, depending on the variety. Lettuce, spinach and some varieties of potatoes also take about two to three months to grow to maturity.

Potatoes
  by Dr. Hemmert, Freshly harvested potatoes
Potatoes are very easy vegetables to grow and you can grow them from the potatoes in your kitchen. There are many varieties, and each will be ready to harvest at different times. The main tip to follow when growing potatoes is not to allow the tuber to receive direct sunlight. The sun will cause it to turn green and you will have to throw it out because it will be poisonous. Early varieties will take as little as 70 days, while the mid and late varieties can take from 90 to 150 days before they are ready to dig. Check to see if they are ready by digging down to see how large the potato is without disturbing the roots. If it feels large enough, dig out only the number of potatoes that you need and allow the rest to grow until the entire plant dies down. Then harvest them all. Squash and tomatoes take about the same time to grow.

Cabbage
  by net_efekt, Coleslaw anyone?
Cabbage, broccoli, peppers and eggplant take four to five months to grow to maturity. Cabbage and peppers, however, should be planted indoors a month or two before transplanting to the garden. Begin the seeds in February or March and place in the garden in May. Other vegetables that grow in this time frame are pumpkins and watermelons.

Asparagus
  by rust.bucket, Asparagas is easy to grow.
Plant asparagus as soon as you can work the soil. You can grow asparagus by planting seed or roots, but roots will grow faster. You should not harvest the asparagus until the second or even third spring after planting to allow the plant to get well established. Mulching in the late fall will protect the plant roots from frost heave and they will return without being replanted. Use compost when planting. As the plant grows, it will spread with new plants, so give it lots of room.
Vegetables grow at different rates depending on the type they are. Some will be ready to harvest within a month, while others will take more than a year to grow. The time spent growing your own vegetables is well worth it. Fresh, home-grown vegetables taste best and often are more nutritious than vegetables that have been shipped across the country and stored on a grocer's shelf.

Whether you have a large garden, a small patch of ground in your back yard, or just a container on your patio, it's possible to grow your own vegetables. If you live in an area with a very short growing season, you may not be able to grow certain types of vegetables unless you have a greenhouse.

Radishes
  by Svadilfari, Radishes grow quickly.
Radishes are grown from seed and are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. You can start them indoors in February or March and then put them in the garden when all danger of frost has passed. They will be ready to pick in about 30 days. You can even get a second harvest if you start your second set of seeds indoors in March and place them in the garden after you harvest the first bunch.

Beans
  by wanko, Green Beans ready for harvest
There are many types of beans, but they basically all take approximately the same time to grow. Pole bean seeds can be planted directly in the garden around a pole or trellis in May in the northern gardening zones, and they will be ready to harvest in about 60 to 70 days. Bush beans should be planted in April or May and take the same 60 to 70 days. In warmer climates where you can plant a month earlier, offset a few rows by a few days so all your beans don't come in at once. Once beans are harvested, the soil can be used for a fall crop. Beans are not cold-hardy and will not tolerate a frost. Other crops that grow in this time frame are onions and peas.

Corn
  by La Grande Farmers' Market, Fresh corn on the cob
Corn needs a lot of space and may not be suitable for all gardens. It should be planted in blocks of rows to ensure good pollination. There are many varieties of corn and it will take between two to a little over three months to harvest, depending on the variety. Lettuce, spinach and some varieties of potatoes also take about two to three months to grow to maturity.

Potatoes
  by Dr. Hemmert, Freshly harvested potatoes
Potatoes are very easy vegetables to grow and you can grow them from the potatoes in your kitchen. There are many varieties, and each will be ready to harvest at different times. The main tip to follow when growing potatoes is not to allow the tuber to receive direct sunlight. The sun will cause it to turn green and you will have to throw it out because it will be poisonous. Early varieties will take as little as 70 days, while the mid and late varieties can take from 90 to 150 days before they are ready to dig. Check to see if they are ready by digging down to see how large the potato is without disturbing the roots. If it feels large enough, dig out only the number of potatoes that you need and allow the rest to grow until the entire plant dies down. Then harvest them all. Squash and tomatoes take about the same time to grow.

Cabbage
  by net_efekt, Coleslaw anyone?
Cabbage, broccoli, peppers and eggplant take four to five months to grow to maturity. Cabbage and peppers, however, should be planted indoors a month or two before transplanting to the garden. Begin the seeds in February or March and place in the garden in May. Other vegetables that grow in this time frame are pumpkins and watermelons.

Asparagus
  by rust.bucket, Asparagas is easy to grow.
Plant asparagus as soon as you can work the soil. You can grow asparagus by planting seed or roots, but roots will grow faster. You should not harvest the asparagus until the second or even third spring after planting to allow the plant to get well established. Mulching in the late fall will protect the plant roots from frost heave and they will return without being replanted. Use compost when planting. As the plant grows, it will spread with new plants, so give it lots of room.
Vegetables grow at different rates depending on the type they are. Some will be ready to harvest within a month, while others will take more than a year to grow. The time spent growing your own vegetables is well worth it. Fresh, home-grown vegetables taste best and often are more nutritious than vegetables that have been shipped across the country and stored on a grocer's shelf.

Whether you have a large garden, a small patch of ground in your back yard, or just a container on your patio, it's possible to grow your own vegetables. If you live in an area with a very short growing season, you may not be able to grow certain types of vegetables unless you have a greenhouse.

Radishes
  by Svadilfari, Radishes grow quickly.
Radishes are grown from seed and are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. You can start them indoors in February or March and then put them in the garden when all danger of frost has passed. They will be ready to pick in about 30 days. You can even get a second harvest if you start your second set of seeds indoors in March and place them in the garden after you harvest the first bunch.

Beans
  by wanko, Green Beans ready for harvest
There are many types of beans, but they basically all take approximately the same time to grow. Pole bean seeds can be planted directly in the garden around a pole or trellis in May in the northern gardening zones, and they will be ready to harvest in about 60 to 70 days. Bush beans should be planted in April or May and take the same 60 to 70 days. In warmer climates where you can plant a month earlier, offset a few rows by a few days so all your beans don't come in at once. Once beans are harvested, the soil can be used for a fall crop. Beans are not cold-hardy and will not tolerate a frost. Other crops that grow in this time frame are onions and peas.

Corn
  by La Grande Farmers' Market, Fresh corn on the cob
Corn needs a lot of space and may not be suitable for all gardens. It should be planted in blocks of rows to ensure good pollination. There are many varieties of corn and it will take between two to a little over three months to harvest, depending on the variety. Lettuce, spinach and some varieties of potatoes also take about two to three months to grow to maturity.

Potatoes
  by Dr. Hemmert, Freshly harvested potatoes
Potatoes are very easy vegetables to grow and you can grow them from the potatoes in your kitchen. There are many varieties, and each will be ready to harvest at different times. The main tip to follow when growing potatoes is not to allow the tuber to receive direct sunlight. The sun will cause it to turn green and you will have to throw it out because it will be poisonous. Early varieties will take as little as 70 days, while the mid and late varieties can take from 90 to 150 days before they are ready to dig. Check to see if they are ready by digging down to see how large the potato is without disturbing the roots. If it feels large enough, dig out only the number of potatoes that you need and allow the rest to grow until the entire plant dies down. Then harvest them all. Squash and tomatoes take about the same time to grow.

Cabbage
  by net_efekt, Coleslaw anyone?
Cabbage, broccoli, peppers and eggplant take four to five months to grow to maturity. Cabbage and peppers, however, should be planted indoors a month or two before transplanting to the garden. Begin the seeds in February or March and place in the garden in May. Other vegetables that grow in this time frame are pumpkins and watermelons.

Asparagus
  by rust.bucket, Asparagas is easy to grow.
Plant asparagus as soon as you can work the soil. You can grow asparagus by planting seed or roots, but roots will grow faster. You should not harvest the asparagus until the second or even third spring after planting to allow the plant to get well established. Mulching in the late fall will protect the plant roots from frost heave and they will return without being replanted. Use compost when planting. As the plant grows, it will spread with new plants, so give it lots of room.
Vegetables grow at different rates depending on the type they are. Some will be ready to harvest within a month, while others will take more than a year to grow. The time spent growing your own vegetables is well worth it. Fresh, home-grown vegetables taste best and often are more nutritious than vegetables that have been shipped across the country and stored on a grocer's shelf.

Whether you have a large garden, a small patch of ground in your back yard, or just a container on your patio, it's possible to grow your own vegetables. If you live in an area with a very short growing season, you may not be able to grow certain types of vegetables unless you have a greenhouse.

Radishes
  by Svadilfari, Radishes grow quickly.
Radishes are grown from seed and are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. You can start them indoors in February or March and then put them in the garden when all danger of frost has passed. They will be ready to pick in about 30 days. You can even get a second harvest if you start your second set of seeds indoors in March and place them in the garden after you harvest the first bunch.

Beans
  by wanko, Green Beans ready for harvest
There are many types of beans, but they basically all take approximately the same time to grow. Pole bean seeds can be planted directly in the garden around a pole or trellis in May in the northern gardening zones, and they will be ready to harvest in about 60 to 70 days. Bush beans should be planted in April or May and take the same 60 to 70 days. In warmer climates where you can plant a month earlier, offset a few rows by a few days so all your beans don't come in at once. Once beans are harvested, the soil can be used for a fall crop. Beans are not cold-hardy and will not tolerate a frost. Other crops that grow in this time frame are onions and peas.

Corn
  by La Grande Farmers' Market, Fresh corn on the cob
Corn needs a lot of space and may not be suitable for all gardens. It should be planted in blocks of rows to ensure good pollination. There are many varieties of corn and it will take between two to a little over three months to harvest, depending on the variety. Lettuce, spinach and some varieties of potatoes also take about two to three months to grow to maturity.

Potatoes
  by Dr. Hemmert, Freshly harvested potatoes
Potatoes are very easy vegetables to grow and you can grow them from the potatoes in your kitchen. There are many varieties, and each will be ready to harvest at different times. The main tip to follow when growing potatoes is not to allow the tuber to receive direct sunlight. The sun will cause it to turn green and you will have to throw it out because it will be poisonous. Early varieties will take as little as 70 days, while the mid and late varieties can take from 90 to 150 days before they are ready to dig. Check to see if they are ready by digging down to see how large the potato is without disturbing the roots. If it feels large enough, dig out only the number of potatoes that you need and allow the rest to grow until the entire plant dies down. Then harvest them all. Squash and tomatoes take about the same time to grow.

Cabbage
  by net_efekt, Coleslaw anyone?
Cabbage, broccoli, peppers and eggplant take four to five months to grow to maturity. Cabbage and peppers, however, should be planted indoors a month or two before transplanting to the garden. Begin the seeds in February or March and place in the garden in May. Other vegetables that grow in this time frame are pumpkins and watermelons.

Asparagus
  by rust.bucket, Asparagas is easy to grow.
Plant asparagus as soon as you can work the soil. You can grow asparagus by planting seed or roots, but roots will grow faster. You should not harvest the asparagus until the second or even third spring after planting to allow the plant to get well established. Mulching in the late fall will protect the plant roots from frost heave and they will return without being replanted. Use compost when planting. As the plant grows, it will spread with new plants, so give it lots of room.
Vegetables grow at different rates depending on the type they are. Some will be ready to harvest within a month, while others will take more than a year to grow. The time spent growing your own vegetables is well worth it. Fresh, home-grown vegetables taste best and often are more nutritious than vegetables that have been shipped across the country and stored on a grocer's shelf.

Whether you have a large garden, a small patch of ground in your back yard, or just a container on your patio, it's possible to grow your own vegetables. If you live in an area with a very short growing season, you may not be able to grow certain types of vegetables unless you have a greenhouse.

Radishes
  by Svadilfari, Radishes grow quickly.
Radishes are grown from seed and are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. You can start them indoors in February or March and then put them in the garden when all danger of frost has passed. They will be ready to pick in about 30 days. You can even get a second harvest if you start your second set of seeds indoors in March and place them in the garden after you harvest the first bunch.

Beans
  by wanko, Green Beans ready for harvest
There are many types of beans, but they basically all take approximately the same time to grow. Pole bean seeds can be planted directly in the garden around a pole or trellis in May in the northern gardening zones, and they will be ready to harvest in about 60 to 70 days. Bush beans should be planted in April or May and take the same 60 to 70 days. In warmer climates where you can plant a month earlier, offset a few rows by a few days so all your beans don't come in at once. Once beans are harvested, the soil can be used for a fall crop. Beans are not cold-hardy and will not tolerate a frost. Other crops that grow in this time frame are onions and peas.

Corn
  by La Grande Farmers' Market, Fresh corn on the cob
Corn needs a lot of space and may not be suitable for all gardens. It should be planted in blocks of rows to ensure good pollination. There are many varieties of corn and it will take between two to a little over three months to harvest, depending on the variety. Lettuce, spinach and some varieties of potatoes also take about two to three months to grow to maturity.

Potatoes
  by Dr. Hemmert, Freshly harvested potatoes
Potatoes are very easy vegetables to grow and you can grow them from the potatoes in your kitchen. There are many varieties, and each will be ready to harvest at different times. The main tip to follow when growing potatoes is not to allow the tuber to receive direct sunlight. The sun will cause it to turn green and you will have to throw it out because it will be poisonous. Early varieties will take as little as 70 days, while the mid and late varieties can take from 90 to 150 days before they are ready to dig. Check to see if they are ready by digging down to see how large the potato is without disturbing the roots. If it feels large enough, dig out only the number of potatoes that you need and allow the rest to grow until the entire plant dies down. Then harvest them all. Squash and tomatoes take about the same time to grow.

Cabbage
  by net_efekt, Coleslaw anyone?
Cabbage, broccoli, peppers and eggplant take four to five months to grow to maturity. Cabbage and peppers, however, should be planted indoors a month or two before transplanting to the garden. Begin the seeds in February or March and place in the garden in May. Other vegetables that grow in this time frame are pumpkins and watermelons.

Asparagus
  by rust.bucket, Asparagas is easy to grow.
Plant asparagus as soon as you can work the soil. You can grow asparagus by planting seed or roots, but roots will grow faster. You should not harvest the asparagus until the second or even third spring after planting to allow the plant to get well established. Mulching in the late fall will protect the plant roots from frost heave and they will return without being replanted. Use compost when planting. As the plant grows, it will spread with new plants, so give it lots of room.
Vegetables grow at different rates depending on the type they are. Some will be ready to harvest within a month, while others will take more than a year to grow. The time spent growing your own vegetables is well worth it. Fresh, home-grown vegetables taste best and often are more nutritious than vegetables that have been shipped across the country and stored on a grocer's shelf.

Whether you have a large garden, a small patch of ground in your back yard, or just a container on your patio, it's possible to grow your own vegetables. If you live in an area with a very short growing season, you may not be able to grow certain types of vegetables unless you have a greenhouse.

Radishes
  by Svadilfari, Radishes grow quickly.
Radishes are grown from seed and are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. You can start them indoors in February or March and then put them in the garden when all danger of frost has passed. They will be ready to pick in about 30 days. You can even get a second harvest if you start your second set of seeds indoors in March and place them in the garden after you harvest the first bunch.

Beans
  by wanko, Green Beans ready for harvest
There are many types of beans, but they basically all take approximately the same time to grow. Pole bean seeds can be planted directly in the garden around a pole or trellis in May in the northern gardening zones, and they will be ready to harvest in about 60 to 70 days. Bush beans should be planted in April or May and take the same 60 to 70 days. In warmer climates where you can plant a month earlier, offset a few rows by a few days so all your beans don't come in at once. Once beans are harvested, the soil can be used for a fall crop. Beans are not cold-hardy and will not tolerate a frost. Other crops that grow in this time frame are onions and peas.

Corn
  by La Grande Farmers' Market, Fresh corn on the cob
Corn needs a lot of space and may not be suitable for all gardens. It should be planted in blocks of rows to ensure good pollination. There are many varieties of corn and it will take between two to a little over three months to harvest, depending on the variety. Lettuce, spinach and some varieties of potatoes also take about two to three months to grow to maturity.

Potatoes
  by Dr. Hemmert, Freshly harvested potatoes
Potatoes are very easy vegetables to grow and you can grow them from the potatoes in your kitchen. There are many varieties, and each will be ready to harvest at different times. The main tip to follow when growing potatoes is not to allow the tuber to receive direct sunlight. The sun will cause it to turn green and you will have to throw it out because it will be poisonous. Early varieties will take as little as 70 days, while the mid and late varieties can take from 90 to 150 days before they are ready to dig. Check to see if they are ready by digging down to see how large the potato is without disturbing the roots. If it feels large enough, dig out only the number of potatoes that you need and allow the rest to grow until the entire plant dies down. Then harvest them all. Squash and tomatoes take about the same time to grow.

Cabbage
  by net_efekt, Coleslaw anyone?
Cabbage, broccoli, peppers and eggplant take four to five months to grow to maturity. Cabbage and peppers, however, should be planted indoors a month or two before transplanting to the garden. Begin the seeds in February or March and place in the garden in May. Other vegetables that grow in this time frame are pumpkins and watermelons.

Asparagus
  by rust.bucket, Asparagas is easy to grow.
Plant asparagus as soon as you can work the soil. You can grow asparagus by planting seed or roots, but roots will grow faster. You should not harvest the asparagus until the second or even third spring after planting to allow the plant to get well established. Mulching in the late fall will protect the plant roots from frost heave and they will return without being replanted. Use compost when planting. As the plant grows, it will spread with new plants, so give it lots of room.
Vegetables grow at different rates depending on the type they are. Some will be ready to harvest within a month, while others will take more than a year to grow. The time spent growing your own vegetables is well worth it. Fresh, home-grown vegetables taste best and often are more nutritious than vegetables that have been shipped across the country and stored on a grocer's shelf.

Whether you have a large garden, a small patch of ground in your back yard, or just a container on your patio, it's possible to grow your own vegetables. If you live in an area with a very short growing season, you may not be able to grow certain types of vegetables unless you have a greenhouse.

Radishes
  by Svadilfari, Radishes grow quickly.
Radishes are grown from seed and are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. You can start them indoors in February or March and then put them in the garden when all danger of frost has passed. They will be ready to pick in about 30 days. You can even get a second harvest if you start your second set of seeds indoors in March and place them in the garden after you harvest the first bunch.

Beans
  by wanko, Green Beans ready for harvest
There are many types of beans, but they basically all take approximately the same time to grow. Pole bean seeds can be planted directly in the garden around a pole or trellis in May in the northern gardening zones, and they will be ready to harvest in about 60 to 70 days. Bush beans should be planted in April or May and take the same 60 to 70 days. In warmer climates where you can plant a month earlier, offset a few rows by a few days so all your beans don't come in at once. Once beans are harvested, the soil can be used for a fall crop. Beans are not cold-hardy and will not tolerate a frost. Other crops that grow in this time frame are onions and peas.

Corn
  by La Grande Farmers' Market, Fresh corn on the cob
Corn needs a lot of space and may not be suitable for all gardens. It should be planted in blocks of rows to ensure good pollination. There are many varieties of corn and it will take between two to a little over three months to harvest, depending on the variety. Lettuce, spinach and some varieties of potatoes also take about two to three months to grow to maturity.

Potatoes
  by Dr. Hemmert, Freshly harvested potatoes
Potatoes are very easy vegetables to grow and you can grow them from the potatoes in your kitchen. There are many varieties, and each will be ready to harvest at different times. The main tip to follow when growing potatoes is not to allow the tuber to receive direct sunlight. The sun will cause it to turn green and you will have to throw it out because it will be poisonous. Early varieties will take as little as 70 days, while the mid and late varieties can take from 90 to 150 days before they are ready to dig. Check to see if they are ready by digging down to see how large the potato is without disturbing the roots. If it feels large enough, dig out only the number of potatoes that you need and allow the rest to grow until the entire plant dies down. Then harvest them all. Squash and tomatoes take about the same time to grow.

Cabbage
  by net_efekt, Coleslaw anyone?
Cabbage, broccoli, peppers and eggplant take four to five months to grow to maturity. Cabbage and peppers, however, should be planted indoors a month or two before transplanting to the garden. Begin the seeds in February or March and place in the garden in May. Other vegetables that grow in this time frame are pumpkins and watermelons.

Asparagus
  by rust.bucket, Asparagas is easy to grow.
Plant asparagus as soon as you can work the soil. You can grow asparagus by planting seed or roots, but roots will grow faster. You should not harvest the asparagus until the second or even third spring after planting to allow the plant to get well established. Mulching in the late fall will protect the plant roots from frost heave and they will return without being replanted. Use compost when planting. As the plant grows, it will spread with new plants, so give it lots of room.
Vegetables grow at different rates depending on the type they are. Some will be ready to harvest within a month, while others will take more than a year to grow. The time spent growing your own vegetables is well worth it. Fresh, home-grown vegetables taste best and often are more nutritious than vegetables that have been shipped across the country and stored on a grocer's shelf.

Whether you have a large garden, a small patch of ground in your back yard, or just a container on your patio, it's possible to grow your own vegetables. If you live in an area with a very short growing season, you may not be able to grow certain types of vegetables unless you have a greenhouse.

Radishes
  by Svadilfari, Radishes grow quickly.
Radishes are grown from seed and are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. You can start them indoors in February or March and then put them in the garden when all danger of frost has passed. They will be ready to pick in about 30 days. You can even get a second harvest if you start your second set of seeds indoors in March and place them in the garden after you harvest the first bunch.

Beans
  by wanko, Green Beans ready for harvest
There are many types of beans, but they basically all take approximately the same time to grow. Pole bean seeds can be planted directly in the garden around a pole or trellis in May in the northern gardening zones, and they will be ready to harvest in about 60 to 70 days. Bush beans should be planted in April or May and take the same 60 to 70 days. In warmer climates where you can plant a month earlier, offset a few rows by a few days so all your beans don't come in at once. Once beans are harvested, the soil can be used for a fall crop. Beans are not cold-hardy and will not tolerate a frost. Other crops that grow in this time frame are onions and peas.

Corn
  by La Grande Farmers' Market, Fresh corn on the cob
Corn needs a lot of space and may not be suitable for all gardens. It should be planted in blocks of rows to ensure good pollination. There are many varieties of corn and it will take between two to a little over three months to harvest, depending on the variety. Lettuce, spinach and some varieties of potatoes also take about two to three months to grow to maturity.

Potatoes
  by Dr. Hemmert, Freshly harvested potatoes
Potatoes are very easy vegetables to grow and you can grow them from the potatoes in your kitchen. There are many varieties, and each will be ready to harvest at different times. The main tip to follow when growing potatoes is not to allow the tuber to receive direct sunlight. The sun will cause it to turn green and you will have to throw it out because it will be poisonous. Early varieties will take as little as 70 days, while the mid and late varieties can take from 90 to 150 days before they are ready to dig. Check to see if they are ready by digging down to see how large the potato is without disturbing the roots. If it feels large enough, dig out only the number of potatoes that you need and allow the rest to grow until the entire plant dies down. Then harvest them all. Squash and tomatoes take about the same time to grow.

Cabbage
  by net_efekt, Coleslaw anyone?
Cabbage, broccoli, peppers and eggplant take four to five months to grow to maturity. Cabbage and peppers, however, should be planted indoors a month or two before transplanting to the garden. Begin the seeds in February or March and place in the garden in May. Other vegetables that grow in this time frame are pumpkins and watermelons.

Asparagus
  by rust.bucket, Asparagas is easy to grow.
Plant asparagus as soon as you can work the soil. You can grow asparagus by planting seed or roots, but roots will grow faster. You should not harvest the asparagus until the second or even third spring after planting to allow the plant to get well established. Mulching in the late fall will protect the plant roots from frost heave and they will return without being replanted. Use compost when planting. As the plant grows, it will spread with new plants, so give it lots of room.
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